Electronic Alarms and Home Security Devices - DSC 1832 install question (s)

As many may already know, I purchased a security system for my house and I am now in the process of installing it.
Over the past week I have been snaking wires and testing contacts, and so far everything seems to be going well.
What I am doing is routing one contact or device at a time, pulling the wire back to the box area leaving about 2 feet of wire coiled up, and labeling it. Then when all the wire is run I will install the box.
So far everything has been fairly easy to understand, like where to put the glass break detectors and door contacts, but one item has me a little puzzled. I purchased a EV-REC1 - Secure Wireless Universal Receiver Keyfob Kit, and it came in a box with wiring directions, but no placement instructions.
Anyone ever installed one of these devises before?
If so, what’s the range on something like this, I thought I would install the receiver in the garage, but will I be able to disarm the alarm from the side door?
Any input would be helpful.

As I understand, this kit is a modified version of the PC5102-433 keyfob receiver (made by DSC). They don't really list a range, but typical is about 200feet, maybe 300 (the instructions tell you to test the placement.)

As far as I know, not having access to the instructions for this modification, your best bet is to place the thing fairly centrally.

Thank you sir, I will horse around with it till I find the sweet spot.

My next question is a little more involved...at least for me..
I have decided not to use resistors on my magnetic door contacts, I know the preferred method is to use them, but I feel confident that my wire placement is secure, I have spent several hours fishing wires through walls, and completely in excisable to any intruder. Also my alarm box or “can” is located in a hidden storage space excisable through a trap door in the master bedroom closet, and I am betting that if an intruder is able to get to the can without me knowing, the alarm wouldn’t stop him anyway. Conversely, I also understand that fire zones always use resistors, even if the other zones do not. This is because fire sensors are "Normally Open" devices; they only close the circuit when they trip. Therefore, a fire zone in its normal state would appear the same to the system as one where the wire has been cut: namely, open. To prevent this, a resistor is used to close the circuit (with reduced voltage), so that it can be supervised.
How exactly is this accomplished?
My interpretation would require placing a resistor across the “NO” and “C” connections at the Detector, am I correct?
I am using DSC FSA-410BT detectors, and each detector will be on its own zone.

On a side note, I just read my above post out loud….
This is my first alarm install, and I almost sound like I know what I am talking about…..Thank you Google..…lol

Yup, you have the basic concept down. If you look at the wiring diagram in your install manual, for 4-wire detectors, you _should_ have a end of line relay to supervise the detector power, but just the resistor on the alarm contacts will work.

Well I got everything wired just like I want it.
Put power to it for the first time tonight, but alas, I will need to read the manual atleat 12 more times :coffee: , cause I am lost.
So far, I have been able to set the time, and make the alarm think the house is on fire, thats about it.
I will read some more, and post some questions tomorrow
I am just spent for today.

Ok, so I guess I thought the when I started my programming attempt the keypads would provide a more a user friendly interface. Although the manual seems to outline each section well, the interface seems to leave you blindly pushing buttons, with no real visual confirmation of what you have just done.
I did purchase the data interface that is supposed to allow you to program via laptop, but again my efforts are in vein as the interface seems designed for a laptop made in the 90’s and I will need to purchase a adaptor to even get the cable hooked to anything.
Ok well enough rant, let me start by outlining what I have wired, and hopefully I can understand what the system is looking for me to do.
First the wired zones.

Zone 01 - Back Door Contact
Zone 02 - Office Door Contact
Zone 03 – Front Door Contact
Zone 04 – Garage Entry Door Contact
Zone 05 – Garage Overhead Door Contact
Zone 06 – Basement Smoke Detector (4 Wire)
Zone 07 – Main Floor Smoke Detector (4 Wire)
Zone 08 – Kitchen Windows Glass Break Detector
Zone 09 – Dining Room Windows Glass Break Detector
Zone 10 – Living Room Windows Glass Break Detector
Zone 11 – Basement Bedroom Windows Glass Break Detector
Zone 12 – Garage Windows Glass Break Detector
Zone 13 – Main Floor Motion Detector

Zone 01-03 do NOT have EOL’s
Zone 04 and 05 DO have EOL’s
Zone 06 and 07 Do have EOL’s
Zone 08-13 do NOT have EOL’s

I have 2 Keypads, one at the back door and one at the office door
Everything in the system is home run to the Can
Both keypads and the zone expander are all wired to the main panel keybus
All door contacts are wired zone to com
Smokes are wired zone to com, and Aux to PGM2
Glass break and motion are wired zone to com and Aux +/-

I guess the first thing I need to ask, is their anything in the above wiring that could be causing me a problem?

For the EOL's; you don't get to mix and match. Either all zones use EOL resistors, or _only_ fire zones require them. If you turn off the EOL requirement, and put the 5.6k resistor in the loop, the zone won't close.

Thank you sir that solves one problem...
I removed the resistors from Zones 04 and 05.
This leaves only the Smokes with resistors.

I believe I have successfully entered some kind of program
Like I said, it’s like typing in the blind.
I completed my worksheet, and went over it like 3 times before I started punching buttons.
When it was all said and done, I have 2 errors.

1. TLM Trouble :confused: I have no clue
2. General Tamper
The book discribed this problem as a tamper input problem with a module. It says to short tamper terminal to com on unused modules connected to the keybus. I checked the tamper button on the keypads, and they look good, the only other thing hooked to the keybus is the expansion board, and I am not clear if it has a tamper feature.
I used the DLS to check status of the system, and it only shows one keypad enrolled, could this be the problem?

These 2 faults were gleaned from the DSL connection I got going after I commandeered my kid’s computer. (It was the only one in the house with the right connector)

Telephone Line Monitor looks for the telco line voltage.
From the FAQ:
"DSC panels default to the communicator turned on, and TLM (telephone line monitoring) turned on. If you will not be using the communicator functions, you have to turn them off by entering programming, turning off option 7 in section 015, and option 1 in section 380."

Yes, the expansion module has a tamper input. Put a jumper from it to any common.

You are probably seeing only keypad because you have both of them set to the same address.

You don't have to program "blind" Every keypad model has the means to view the programming contents. For the LED and Fixed English (LCD 5501) models, you have to use the hexadecimal translation table in the section of the manual titled "How to Program".

Thank you Ron, I appreciate your help.
Now that I have the DLS working, I can make the TLM changes offline and test them when I get home tonight :)
Another question about the Telephone connection, I am waiting to set up CS monitoring until I am sure everyone who will be using this alarm system understands how to use it correctly, so right now I have not run a phone line to the "Can" although I have connected the phone jack to the can.
Currently my phone connection is through our cable company. We have had great service with very few outages. Everything I read says DO NOT use VOIP for alarm monitoring, some say it works some say it sucks. In the end, even if it works its iffy.

I contacted my Cable Company, and their answer was the following:

Digital Phone will work with most monitored home security systems. In the event that Time Warner Cable installs and configures Digital Phone with your home security system, we recommend that you test the proper operation and communication aspects of the alarm system before and after your Digital Phone installation.
I have dealt with this type of vague statement before, and 9 times out of 10 this means something is going to be costing me some money.
Along with the Digital Phone I have High Speed Broadband with both a hard wired and wireless home network and very good cellular signal strength at my house.

Any recomendations?

VOIP is always a crapshoot when it comes to alarm transmissions. Remember, that "V" is for voice, not data.

For the most part, the quality of the digital phone systems have gotten better, but your mileage will vary by the local provider.

There are a couple of options for monitoring directly via internet connection, but your central station provider has to be equipped to use them.

Well things are starting to come together.
I have removed the TLM error
I have removed the tamper error
Then I started checking different devises on the system.
The fire detectors (4 wire FSA410) instructions say I should see a red light blink every 50sec, and I dont.
When I set the zone I set it to 08 (24 stand hr fire)
When I set the PGM2 option, I set it to 01, but I had no voltage between Aux+ and PGM2, so I changed it to option 03, now I have voltage and the led blinks on the detector.
I am still not convinced I did the right thing, can you verify this?
Also, I have a new error
Trouble code 5, I am able to enter information on both keypads, and all my zones are active, so the first cause in the troubleshooting page dosnt seem to be the problem, but the second cause "Keypad assigned to incorrect slot"
could be a possibility, but what is correct for my application?

No, you don't have the smokes connected properly. 4-wire smokes wire as follows:

Connect the smoke power negative to PGM
Connect smoke power postive to Aux +
Connect smoke alarm contact wires to the zone input you are using.

Program the PGM for type 03
Program the zone input as a fire zone.

For the keypad, keypad 1 should be 11 Keypad 2 should be 12.

Trouble 5 (not trouble 1 - 5) is zone fault. If you are not seeing the end of line resistors on the fire zone inputs, then that is the source of that trouble. You need a 5.6 k resistor on each of the smoke loops.

That did it
I have now wired 11 of 13 zones, no runs no drips no errors.
I would have done all 13 ....but...ummm..I ran out of wire.:o
Anyways I wanted to give you my deepest thanks for all your help.