Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Window in Shower

I have a window in my shower and I'm in the process of a remodel. I replaced the window, installed 60min paper to the studs starting at the bottom of the shower and then layering to the top, and then 1/2" backerboad on top. I have already taped the joints. This is just on top of an existing tub.

Here's my problem/question/concern:
When I installed the 60 min paper I ended it at the front of the window recess so I didn't go into the recess. I think the reason I did this was because I was thinking I was just going to liquidnail the backerboard strips to the inside of recess and figured the paper would hinder the adhesion. This is a block house so the top on the window recess is a metal strip. I ended up using screws so now after reading more into things I realized I may have hurt myself. Pulling off the backerboard now would be a nightmare because it's glued, screwed and taped so I guess my question is what is the likelihood of this failing and getting a lot of moisture problems? Is there anything I can do help prevent any issues if they are likely? I have not yet tiled around the window so is there anything I can to do to caulk at the joint where the backerbaord meets the window?

I've read the moisture that the barrier protects is mainly from moisture seeping through the groat and tiles. The barrier will just keep it from entering the walls and it will eventually exit the way it came in. I did install correctly over the lip of the tub so I'm just concerned about the window area.

Thanks

What is "60 min paper"???:D

It's a vapor/moisture barrier product at Home Depot. I would guess it's rated to hold back moisture for 60 mins.

I guess maybe it could be "60lb" paper? I thought the product said "mins". It's an asphalt paper. Home Depot recommended the product to use.

I believe the was the product it does say 60 min paper:

http://www.gmcpaper.com/resources/GMCraft+60+Data+Sheets.pdf

Yow OK got it! Another BS product.

You have used 60# roofing felt. It can't be glued to anything the glue won't hold it. You can't apply tile to it, it won't hold the tile adhesive.

I'd get rid of it around the window and use a product that is made for the purpose.

You could use Schluter KERDI or you could use Laticrete #9235 with their fabric or you could use Custom's RedGard with (a) fabric. There are any number of suitable products you could use but 60# roofing felt ain't one of them.:)

I contacted GMC and they said that this product is used for this scenario as long as it's only a vertical install so no shower pan. So I guess the concern is just the window sill that I didn't cover over and what I can do now to minimize any risks.

The paper was applied to the bare studs first and then the backerboard was applied on top.

The main question is will this installation be doomed to fail at the window or can I can do something to treat the backerboard that is already in place to make it impervious to water?

You could use Schluter KERDI or you could use Laticrete #9235 with their fabric or you could use Custom's RedGard with (a) fabric. There are any number of suitable products you could use but 60# roofing felt ain't one of them.:D

OK so my issue is that I didn't install a moisture barrier in the window recess. So in the window area I have backerboard liquid nailed down and then fixed with mason screws. Without ripping this out, is there anything I can do to treat the backerboard before I tile on it in order to minimize any moisture damage? Any kind of paint or coating? Anything that I can use to caulk where the backerboard meeting the window?

Without ripping this out, is there anything I can do to treat the backerboard before I tile on it in order to minimize any moisture damage? Any kind of paint or coating?

Laticrete #9235 with their fabric or you could use Custom's RedGard with (a) fabric.

Message says I need 15 characters. OK:)

Great!! Bud was a lot of help but I couldn't tell if what he was saying was meant for under the backerboard.

Over, not under.:)

I wonder if he tapered the sill. From what I can understand he has a recess in the window opening. Does this not require the sill to taper towards the interior for drainage as this window is in the shower? Seems like there might be a problem with standing water on the sill idk.

If "taper" means slope, then yes, it should be sloped.:D

Definitely want a slope so that water doesn't pool. I have a window in a shower and just keep a towel there to catch slow leaks and keep replacing it.