Outdoor Power Equipment and Small Engines - Chain wont move on chainsaw - Echo 452VR

I borrowed a chainsaw and (wrongly) assumed it was an automatic oiler so long story short, now the chain wont move. Can I just add oil? Did I break something?

Wondering if I nee dot get it fixed by a profesional or if ther is a simple fix I can do...

if you run it so hot the chain won't move at all, chances are you owe your friend a new chain, bar, and maybe sprocket.

You might want to make sure you simply don;t have the blade brake on first. That would act the same as you describe.

Thanks NAP - is this a do it yourself type of job? I'm fairly handy - can handle the maintenance things like oil changes, spark plugs and wires, brake pads and what not. Does it take any special set of tools?

if you can do all that, this would be a piece of cake.

first, have you checked to see of the blade brake is activated. Most newer saws have a large paddle sort of thing right by the top handle. That is the activation lever. If you puched it, the brake may be in. Most I am aware of, simply pulling it back resets it.

Then, if the chain stil won;t move, try lubricating the bar, quite liberally with bar oil. Try to work it by hand (be careful, don't cut yourself on the chain.

Next, I would remove the chain. Without knowing what brand ( and maybe if I knew the brand) I cannot tell you exactly how to remove the chain but all saws have a method of tightening the chain. Doing the opposite will allow you to take the chain off. You will most likely have to take off a side cover over the rear end of the bar.

So, once the chain is off, try to rotate the sprocket on the clutch. At this point, you really should be able to rotate thes sprocket. Also, look at the sprocket to see if the chain wore a groove into the sprocket. If it is worn too much, it will need to be replaced. Some wear is normal and typical so it is hard to describe at what point it needs to be replaced.

So, many saws have a sprocket tip on the bar. It is basically a sprocket at the end that the chain rides on. That shoould move freely. The grooves on the edge of the bar should not be tapered but straight up and down and the edge of the bar should be fairly square edged.

The chain has teeth that ride on the sprockets. Again, tough to describe a worn chain but those teeth can wear. Also, on the cutting edge, there are teeth that cut the wood.

This is what a good chain looks like.

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/graphics/chainsawparts/chainsaw_chain_large.gif

If you need to remove the ans replace the bar, there are generally a couple nuts on the engine end covering slotted holes. Typically, removing those nuts allows the blade to be removed.

this is getting long so see what you can and post back with questions.

thanks nap - sounds like this is something I should do this myself and save some $$. I will try your suggestions and post back...

BTW - I did sheck the brack and the lever is up....