Patching and Plastering - Why am I getting bubbles?

I'm using all purpose joint compound. I've been screening the walls in an old house. I opened a new bucket, used 1/2of it and quite for the day. The first half of the bucket went on fine, but this is the second coat. (I sanded the first rough coat. I wiped the walls down with a damp sponge to remove any dust, especially from the deeper areas.)
When I put it on it bubbles up.:alarm: If this were the rough coat wouldn't care, but this is close to the finish coat. I thought maybe it was too hot and it affected the balance of the bucket. I did put the plastic sheet (wet) back over it.
This is my 38th bucket and this is the first time I've had this problem. Did I do something wrong, or is there some other explanation?

Usually the air bubbles come from mixing and thinning the mud with a drill.

Can you further explain the bubbles? are they just pin hole size? a pic would be nice.

Mark
I didn't use anything to mix it. I use it as it comes out of the bucket. I'm not talking about the pinholes I sometimes get, I'm talking more like dimples, bumps grouped together. if it happens again tomorrow I'll take some pictures and post them in my photobucket.
While I've got you though I do have another question, if i wanted to thin this stuff for a thin finish coat (instead of sanding my butt off) what are the ratios water to mud? I'm using sheetrock brand.

"more like dimples, bumps grouped together"

Could it be dried up pieces of j/c trashing it up?

I thin the majority of mud I use but really don't have any idea as to how much water I add - I just add some as I'm mixing it [a little at a time] until it looks right.

Occasionally, I've over thinned the mud :eek: but you can add a little durabond to the mud in your pan to thicken it back up - just make sure you don't return any of it to the bucket!

Nope no dried hunks. A friend of mine told me to always make sure I wipe the rim and the entire inside of the bucket (down to the mud) with a damp sponge, not to leave any residue to fall back into the pail. I follow that rule religously. I also throw a wet plastic over it if I'm going to have the bucket open, but doing something else.
That's why I don't get it. Does the weather effect it? It was really humid today. I had the windows open too.

Humidity can slow down the drying time but.......
:thinker: either I don't understand what's happening or it's something I've never run across :confused:

I think that your wiping the walls with a wet sponge rewet the compound already on the wall and it is causing the new coat to slide across rather than apply and stick. The high humidity is also extending the dry time.

If the bumps are not gross, I would let it dry, scrape lightly with a 8" knife to knock down any high spots and hit it with another topcoat before you sand, then allow to dry, it should fill in the holes and bumps.

All you need to do is sweep the previous dust off with a broom. No need to wet the walls.

Test the bucket on a area that you did not wipe with the sponge and see if you get the same results. I like to mix each batch of mud a little in the pan with a 3 in knife just prior to applying to the wall to make sure everything is smooth. You may just have a batch that wasn't mixed well enough from the factory and has a couple of dry spots in it.

bubbles are caused by several different reasons. If you skim over paint then you will always get bubbles. Then most likley you will get bubbles on the next coat. What you describe sounds, to me, thant you put on too much mud at one time.

If you skim over paint then you will always get bubbles. Then most likley you will get bubbles on the next coat. What you describe sounds, to me, thant you put on too much mud at one time.

I think thats why also because of the paint and the surface is sealed now so theres no suction and because of the thickness of mud you get bubbles like Coop23 said. The surface of your first skimcoat might be dry in spots on the outside but in thicker spots it might be still damp and wet underneath causeing it to bubble again.

What you might want to try is troweling down the bubbles to close them up a bit when its completely dryed before you sand it again to get ready for hopefully a last coat.
Sanding it now will most likely open up the bubbles causeing more pin holes and an extra coat.

Every trowel full I lifted out of the bucket had air pockets. I'm wondering :thinker: if when that pail was being filled they ran out of mix and the top was a fresher batch. The top of the bucket wasn't a problem, just the bottom 1/2.
The sponge I used was only damp and the first coat had a full week of dry time to make sure it was dry. The first coat did go on thicker because I had huge spaces (dips) to fill in to make the wall straight. (I try to fill them a little at a time, building it out with each coat. Flat spots just get skimmed, dips get the bulk of it.)
Did I mention this is lathe and plaster, not drywall??? Also this house is over 100 years old. It's been a real challenge. I didn't want to drywall because it would have meant pulling off all the old plaster and lathe and be a huge mess. So, I tightened the walls with plaster washers, put on a light coat of mud then used 48" wide window screen (fiberglass kind) to screen the walls. I worked the screen as tight to the wall as I could, leaving enough plaster to bond it to the wall. This is my 7th room and this is the first I had any problem with.
I gave up on that bucket, I used it for the rough coat in the closet. The new bucket I opened today was fine and I followed the same steps to see if it was the dust?, wet sponge? or what? It went on fine.
I just remembered I did run into one other bucket I had a problem with. It was a different brand and it was a lite compound. I couldn't get that to smooth out for nothing and it all cracked as it dried. I scraped it off the wall and tossed the bucket. Same wall with an all purpose JC (different brand) and it all went fine. That I suspect I did put on too thick for a lite compound. This has been a learn as you go project:D. Thank God for the INTERNET, I've gotten all kinds of advice on a number of problems, plumbing being my biggest challenge:wall: :wall: . I'll never do a major plumbing project ever again.

I'm not overly fond of plumbing either :p I only do it for myself [and the kids] to save money :D

You really should get you a heavy duty drill and a mixing paddle. I think most of your problem comes from all the mud in the bucket not being well mixed. J/C tends to crack anytime it's applied too heavy.

I've always been afraid of doing that because I thought that would fill it with air bubbles.

Let me tell you about my first attempt to thin this stuff. (I have no clue what the water to mud ratio is) So, I'm down to 1/2 a pail of mud and I decide to try to thin it for a final skim coat. I'm thinking the mud is pretty thick, so I add 1/4 pail of water, whip out my drill and mixer and have at it. Now, maybe I should have plunged the paddle deeper but... being a first timer I'm thinking it's better to mix the water a little at a time. Little did I know that ratio was WAY OFF. :alarm: :alarm: The stuff flies out of the bucket and all over the walls. :eek: I stop grab my trowel and try to spread it TOO THIN
So I open another pail and start scooping more mud in, by the time I get done I ended up mixing a bucket & 1/2 of sloppy crap. :thumbdn: Haven't tried to thin it since. On occasion I've given it a light spritz with a spray bottle to thin it, but only AFTER it's on the wall:D

I do and have done a lot of wall repairs on houses from the 1860's on to current, for the last 20 years. The plaster walls, when skimmed over, are notorious for causing bubbles, and usually occur on the 2nd coat.

I have never been sure why, but have theorized it is either a ph differential (it's like a manifestation of immediate tiny bubbles, as in a fizzing action - almost carbonation like), or the inability of the entrained air in the mix to be unable to go outward into the wall and the air must escape back INTO the room.

Either way, the advice is correct on simply knocking down the bumps and tightely reskimming.

Spackle works great also, for filling those pock marks after the bubbles get scraped/pop. Also, you can keep drawing your broadknife over the air bubbles as it is drying, and you will be able to at least make it so most the bubbles are not raised anymore, but rather leave the open holes, for the most part, that you can fill.

There is an additive that you can buy in the mud dept. at home centers, to add, that prevents bubbles, but I haven't had good luck with it. Basically it is some detergent soap product.

The trick to thinning j/c is to add a little bit of water at a time - mix and add a little more, repeat until right :D This also prevents the drill paddle from slinging it out of the bucket.

Every box of mud, being all purpose or lightweight, comes with a different consistancy. I think if mud has been sitting around a while then it gets dry. Anyway, if it looks like it's wet out of the box, don't add any water, just mix. If it's dry then add a cup of water at a time. Doesn't take much to loosen it up. The important thing to do is mix it.

How do I know how much mud to mix at a time? You say add a cup of water, to how much mud, the whole bucket? Some of you mention mixing it in a pan, what sort of pan do you use? I bought this tray thing, it's about 3-1/2" deep by maybe 15" long. is that what it's for? I tried mixing it in that but it was too small to mix any amount.
ecman: thanks for the tip, I thought I was just inept:D

I use mud that comes in a box then dump it in a 5 gal. bucket and mix the entire box. I usually use the bucket up within a couple of weeks at the most. It will keep longer if you clean the sides and top and put the lid on tight.

I only mix quick set mud in a pan. That is what your tray is called, a pan. You also use the pan to hold your mud while you coat.

Coops
I don't remember seeing any kind of mud in a box, I did see some stuff in 40 lb. bags, but the salesman said it was for final sanding. What is the brand name?

I bought this tray thing, it's about 3-1/2" deep by maybe 15" long. is that what it's for?

Yes.

ecman: thanks for the tip, I thought I was just inept:D

Everyone will run into this problem if they have enough experience with different wall surfaces. It will occur with all mud varieties. Usually occurs on the second coat. Occurs like a fizzing action, as stated. Occurs instantly, as if someone snuck and put vinegar and baking soda in the mix when you weren't looking. That is why they invented that additive (that I haven't had good luck with).

This is probably a dumb question, but why on the second coat, why not the first? And why just in this one room?? I thought the freaken place was haunted. The wife hung some wallpaper in there years ago. The next morning it was all on the floor.:eek:

I did see some stuff in 40 lb. bags, but the salesman said it was for final sanding. What is the brand name?The mud for final sanding is the same mud as the rest. just packaged different and priced higher to rob you of your money.

Box mud comes in blue boxes (lightweight) all I ever use and green boxes (heavyweight) sucks to use.

The bag powder is usually quickset, comes in 5 minutes, 45 minutes and 90 minutes. We use this for large jobs that need to get done fast. We mix this by the bucket full.

This is probably a dumb question, but why on the second coat, why not the first? Because you used bucket mud and did not mix it. You used the top half first and then when you got to the second coat, you hit the air in the mud down below when they filled it.

If you had kept using the entire bucket you would have run across this problem sooner.

The trick to get the bubbles out of your mud you spread on the wall is to go over it a few times until nice and smooth. The angle on the blade play a lot into this also.

Drywall work is not as easy as people think it is. It takes lots of practice to get it right and be able to know how to solve these problems and work with the mud.

You should do good though, remember you can sand and skim as many times as you want until it looks good.

Drywall is my second after the firefighter one. I've been doing drywall for about 20 years and firefighting for 14. i work 9 days a month at the department, get paid for the whole month, so it give me time to do a second job. Just like countless other firefighters.

FireEater:
Unfortunately this is all lathe and plaster, no drywall. Am beginning to wish I had gone that route, but like I said that would have been a bigger mess because the walls would have had to be all knocked clean. The plaster was just a little loose and needed to be tightened back up, but that wasn't as bad as the mess 100 year old plaster dust makes.
You are right about one thing it took me a long time to get the hang of how to handle the knife. I suspect I wasted the equivelant of a bucket full dropping it in my boots and all over the floor:D

This is probably a dumb question, but why on the second coat, why not the first? And why just in this one room??

I already said what I know. Even the owner of large wholesale/retail sheetrock outfit that has office, workers, fleets of boom trucks, lifts (for sale or rent), store with mud mixing supplies, etc. did not have the exact one -size-fits-all answer about 18 years ago when I asked him -and he told me about that additive to combat this. The problem never really bothered me THAT much to conduct an all out search on the whys of this. I can quickly final coat fill those bubble pops. I am a quick mudder and nothing with mudding bothers me in the slightest, as I am very good at it. I can take a remodeled room that has even bowed walls, or stepped offsets in ceiling or wall (where new meets old) and straighten this out so you can't see it. I fill lots of bashed in and rotted holes or water damage. Mesh tape and Durobond up cracked plaster walls (have actually done curving, bulged joints in one coat) Nothing bothers me. Rentals is more stress-free probably. It is like childs play/fun, to me. Just don't ask me to tape and mud an entire house though. :eek:

When I get this house finished the next tool I pick up will be my lawn chair and a 6 pack:D :D

I popped all the holes today and worked on the woodwork in that room. I more big room and a closet and I'm done. NEVER AGAIN
I did learn a lot from you fellas though and for that I will be forever grateful. There is a certain satisfaction that goes with looking at a finished project and know your hands produced it.

Never again, ehh? That is what I said when I was digging trenches with a shovel about 35 years ago. Ha.

I forgot something in my previous post where I was explaining the 2nd coat air bubbles. I forgot to say the very thing it might be. It could be from gas trying to escape from not totally cured first coat.

I ran into this again when I just got through Durobonding over plaster (a few days ago), and then went over it again when it was basically hard, but still 'green'. The first coat did not bubble. Only the 2nd coat. Then I had other work to do lately and had a fan on it, and came back to the job today and final topcoated with ready mix mud, and very few bubbles occured this time. Normally, that ready mud would have really bubbled on me, over the Durobond over plaster. But this time the Durobond dried more.

There may be something to this theory. But as I've stated in my previous post, the bubbles/pops never really bothered me as I've easily/quickly filled them.

I've heard a few of you mention Durobonding, what is that???

Is there a time frame for curing to occur between coats? I thought if it was dry and solid it was ok to put on another coat. Is that wrong? Maybe that's my problem.

Durobond is a powder (that you mix with water) that contains various ingredients, that sets up in the matter of how concrete does. It actually contains plaster of Paris, among other stuff.

It comes, with time ratings printed on it. If you got Durobond 20, it starts setting up in 20 minutes. You have less than 20 minutes working time. And if you use warm water, you only have a few minutes! It might even turn to cement right in your pan, as you curse at it.

All of the time ratings (20, 45, 90, etc.) flash off at their given time. The time varies due to water temp and the temp and humidity you are working in.

By "flashing off", I mean that it goes from being quite workable, to suddenly getting stiff.

This is some strong stuff. If you want to guarantee tape is going to stay put, this is it. It also is what is best to use when you use mesh tape. It is also excellent for using as a filler. Even deep fills, because of the principle on how it sets up. You can't do deep fills with ready mix, as it will shrink and crack (gaping cracks, too) and take forever (days) to dry.

Another interesting feature of Durobond 'setting type', is that if you remain on the job and your fill say has bulged out on you, or in any other way needs to be sanded down - you can actually carve it off (instead), like you could to a bar of soap, if you do so at just the right time in the setting process.

Sounds to me like the remaining mud in yer bucket is simply too "stiff". Joint compound should be smooth and creamy. The mixing/adding water suggestions are right on.
As far as enjoying yer chair and yer 6-pack, and considering your walls are plaster, I would repair more major cracks with durabond/"hot" mud, and only use un-catalyzed bucket mud for minor things. Its been my experience that using "bucket mud" for repairing and filling noticeable cracks in plaster walls is a temporary fix and usually looks like s*** in a couple years. I would recommend "hot" mud for the cracks w/mesh or tape if needed, and bucket mud for minor smoothing ,etc. Durabond/"hot" mud has a much higher adhesion strength than ready-mix, as well as being more similar in composition to the plaster itself. Ready-mix used in large quantities on plaster surfaces will most likely "pucker", as it expands/contracts differently than veneer plaster. Hope thats helpful somewhat.

Does this stuff dry to the same grey as cement?? There was some stuff on one wall in the living room I had to beat with a hammer to break out. I thought the stuff was cement. The upper portion of the wall had been replaced and where it met with the plaster it made a huge bulge in the wall. I had to break it back about a foot to get it so it laid flat.:wall:
I think Durobond is for you professional guys. I don't move that fast and it would be like cement in my pail:D
I just hope smarder isn't right about what's going to happen a few years down the road. :eek: If that happens there could be a fire at my house:alarm:

I guess you can say that. It may even vary in the shade of light gray to a little darker gray.

Don't be so negative. You think I started out experienced? You have to start somewhere, sometime. Your own house, or a rental, is the best place. Not on someone elses mansion. If you have lots to do, you can mix it in a pail using a drill and paint stirring attachment. Do not mix so much on your first attempt. Plus, smaller quantities are easier to mix. Or mix up about 1/'2 pan worth in one of those bread-pan -like mud pans. If it starts getting too stiff to work with (where it goes from being like toothpaste-peanut butter, when you mixed it, to suddenly becoming like modeling clay/playdoh), then you must quickly scoop it out and get rid of it and wash out the pan and then make a new batch. Never over fill. Skim-fill tight, and recoat 3 or more times if you have to. Or, do the Durobond fill coat and switch to top it off with ready mix mud that you buy in the pail.

For the sake of learning I might give the Durobond a shot in the next room. The one wall used to be the exterior of the house some 75 years ago and there is a big crack where it shifted. Do you think I can but the screening right into it to add strength to the wall?? I haven't pulled the wall paper off yet to see what I've got. Getting griped at because I have too many rooms going at one time. I'm only working on 2 at a time. While I wait for the plaster to dry good I just do something in the next room. Seems more time efficient but the wife thinks it should all have been finished by now. I only started a year ago last April and I've redone 5 room plus put in a new bathroom. I lost a month and 1/2 because I fell off of a plaster bucket and broke my elbow too.:eek: (yeah I know they don't make them to stand on, that's what ladders are for)

DON'T EVER Stand on a ladder like that again !!!! I am glad that your elbow works. I fell installing a set of stairs 5 years ago and dislocated a shoulder. Full rotator cuff tear. Unsuccessful surgery. Now I do everything 1 handed because the right arm don't work at all. The nerve damage will not allow me to open 1 hand. This typing is 1 handed too. I cut stairs for 35 years, so it wasn't inexperience. Be damn careful guys, early retirement to disability really screws up the income. So DON'T DO IT !! Please

For the sake of learning I might give the Durobond a shot in the next room. The one wall used to be the exterior of the house some 75 years ago and there is a big crack where it shifted. Do you think I can but the screening right into it to add strength to the wall?? I haven't pulled the wall paper off yet to see what I've got. Getting griped at because I have too many rooms going at one time. I'm only working on 2 at a time. While I wait for the plaster to dry good I just do something in the next room. Seems more time efficient but the wife thinks it should all have been finished by now. I only started a year ago last April and I've redone 5 room plus put in a new bathroom. I lost a month and 1/2 because I fell off of a plaster bucket and broke my elbow too.:eek: (yeah I know they don't make them to stand on, that's what ladders are for)

As far as the crack goes, I would recommend taking a scraper and removing some material off the surface in and around the crack. 'Shave' the surface down slightly, (approx 1/8" to 3/16" deep or so) around the crack about 3" wide. This will leave you with a recess in which you can apply mesh tape with durabond. Removing some material in the cracked area helps adhesion and makes it a little easier to hide the crack without bulges or uneven surfaces. Also, I would suggest pressing on the wall near the crack while closely observing the crack to see if there is movement. If the plaster moves, or flexes slightly, the crack will recur if the plaster isn't secured. To secure the existing plaster, you can use screws with 1" fender washers. Just scrape the surface a little (same technique as crack procedure) where you plan to drive the screw/fender washers so that they are counter-sunk, or slightly below the surface and mud over them with joint compound. (using drywall screws without washers will simply pull through the plaster over time and do nothing) The other comments about mixing the durabond in smaller quantities is the way to go. Try to find a 90 minute durabond, and just remember that the 'clock starts ticking' as soon as water touches the material, not when you're finished mixing, so mixing fast = more working time. The more time you spend preping the surface and securing the plaster the better off you'll be, I promise!!! Hope this is helpful :)

:alarm: :alarm: MY WORST FEARS REALIZED!!! There is no plaster at all on this wall, it's ALL wood. When it was wallpapered they used some sort of liner paper like used to go over paneling. Over the years it cracked underneath the wallpaper.
I know you are probably going to suggest drywalling over it. I would, but that would mean pulling up carpet, cutting it and relaying it, rebuilding a door casing, move the baseboard, and a heat vent would have to be altered (somehow). That's a lot of work for one wall:eek: :wall: Plus there is a doorway that got closed off under there too.

So..... will this durobond stick to an all wood wall??? How do I deal with the seams between the boards, screening like I have been????

westnlas: Sorry about that arm, that has got to be a bad one to deal with.

I wouldn't apply j/c or a setting compound over an entire wood wall. You might get away with a little to patch on wood but never a skim coat over the entire surface. Too apt to pop loose later.

I can understand the reluctance to make it a bigger job but if you rip off the wood, you have a chance to update or relocate any electrical and add insulation if needed.

...... besides, you wouldn't want to get fat and lazy sitting in that lawn chair :D :D :D

Without having to reread this whole thread again, due to the lastest revelation - do you have wallpaper over paneling? Is the wallpaper still on?, or have you removed it and found the paneling to have split, as if it dried out with age, too much?

You can perform wonders with siliconized acrylic latex caulk. I smear on caulk/inject into cracks and quickly use a putty knife on it. Yesterday I did that very thing to the outside of a wood door.

Last year I made huge coble repairs to an outside porch rail. The top 2 x 10 wood cap ontop the kneewall got rotted out down the center of it, and I dug out all the rot up to 1 inch deep in places. Then I used I believe oil based Zinsser primer on it. Then I applied up to 4 layers of that caulk (due to shrinkage), skimming it on with as wide of putty knives or mudding knives as necessary. It came out smooth and beautiful, as the creamy caulk was easy to trowel in this way. I'd wipe off the blade off the knife with each "pull" into a wet rag before doing another "pull". Then I reprimed and then painted with white Pittsburgh top of the line semi-gloss (semi-gloss sheets-off water good) paint and it made it through the winter with snow drifts standing on it and also water raining on it, and no signs of damage! I was there today, looking at it, a matter of fact.

All that said, you could actually use the caulk to inject into and tightly skim over the cracks. You could also fill paneling grooves this way, I'd imagine. But if you did, you'd have to make sure you have no raised edge of caulk as you can't sand it.

If you were to tape and Durobond, I think it would stick if you applied Zinsser primer that has on the label that it stickes to all surfaces and dries flat. Then tape and Durobond over that.

.............

Oh. You might wonder why I just did not replace that wood top cap rail. The columns supporting the roof set on it. I did not want to deal with that, as long as I could pull off an invisible cobble repair (and perform this experiment on a rental), that, with perhaps a little extra upkeep work every year, may hold up for who knows how long.

This is what it looks like (follow link below to my photobucket)
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o103/shopchallenged/woodwalldoorremoved.jpg

Yes, I stripped the paper off. Glad I did because the wall has more issues than what actually showed. I think it has a light coat of J/C then primed over. If you look at the picture you can also see where what looks like a door(?) was removed. The wall seems flat but there are some open seems between the boards. I probably should have shot a close up to better show it. I'll see if I can tomorrow. Whoever did the rest of the room knew less about plastering than me:)

Won't it take a long time for the caulk to set? A friend of mine says they have stuff like oil cloth you can glue to the wall, problem was he didn't know what you were supposed to do after that. Anybody ever here of this method???

I've also done some "creative" caulking to save a customer $...... but it doesn't make it the correct way to repair damage. And yes it does take it a while to set and if the caulk is any good, a long time to dry out.

There is a wallpaper like product that is used to cover problem walls. Basically it holds the plaster together and gives you a better surface to repair and paint or wallpaper. I've never hung it and don't know the name of the product.

Have you considered removing the trim and laminating the wall with 1/4" drywall?

Better pictures, close up, will help us better determine what you should do.

Seems to me that about 15 years ago, I put up this fabric-like material (may have been sticky) on a plaster ceiling area that had lots of cracks, but was sound. I can't remember where we got it and I can't remember how we finished it off.
All I remember about it was that it worked for us. Paint store?, sheetrock supplier with retail outlet? maybe.

Depending if the wall is bad enough, sheetrock overlaying might be an optrion, too. You can go as low as 1/4 inch thick. In overlaying, you can stand the sheets up and only have recessed joints every 4 feet, that are easiest to tape and mud.

I didn't know drywall came that thin. I assume I'd have to go to a regular lumberyard to get some? Not the big box stores? I've been looking at some wallpaper sites for the other stuff as well.
Will post a close up of the worst spot. The crack runs the full length of that board.

It used to be you needed to go to a drywall supply house to get 1/4" drywall but a week or so ago I was in the local lowes and seen they had it in stock.

Thanks I'll check it out in the morning, I've got to go there to pick up some hardware anyway.

This is a close up picture of crack, it runs full length of the wall and there is one closer to the floor as well. I don't want to wallpaper just to have to do it all over again. Wallpaper ain't cheap!!


http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o103/shopchallenged/crackinwall.jpg

The photo does nto help me see it, really. Sorry. Almost looks like a basement block wall where someone added green dye outside, and watered the ground, and the dye seeped in through mortar joints.

Are there cracks that are horizontal and like 8 inches apart? That is what it looks like on the picture. But you say there is (only) ONE? full length crack, and another down by the floor? Are these 4 feet apart?, or less? What is the distance between them so we can figure out why these cracks are there.

Yeah I don't know why it came out that way on the picture, but I can assure you it's wood, not block. They didn't have cement block 100 years ago.:D This is the actual outside of the original structure or so I'm told by the previous owner.
A fellow woodworker told me to glue the screen to the wall with hide glue, then plaster over that. I'm not sure, nor was he, what kind of chemical reaction might occur by doing that. I know hide glue will keep it tight to the wall, but will the plaster or Durobond adhere to that without a problem?
It's just this one wall I have to deal with. I thought I might try it down in the corner and see what happens.