Patching and Plastering - Fiberglass cracks

Just finished priming a new mudding job. I used a mix of mesh and paper tape. Paper tape in the corners, mesh in the recessed joints, and mesh on the butt joints. The corners are fine, mesh recessed joints are fine, but a few of the mesh butt joints in the hallway where there is little to know airflow have cracked now that the primer is dry. I can see the seam right where the two panels butt up. What went wrong and whats the best approach at repairing it at this point?

I've used mesh before on butt joints but with setting compound on the first coat, didn't have that luxury this time.

Sticky tape has a poor track record but it takes time for it to fail. The only thing I can think of is the mud may not have been fully dried before you applied the primer. Another coat of j/c should fix it.

Sticky tape has a poor track record but it takes time for it to fail. The only thing I can think of is the mud may not have been fully dried before you applied the primer. Another coat of j/c should fix it.

I think the lack of air flow may have contributed to the drying. It was very humid with my 500w light and body heat movement in an area with no hot air or return air ducts, even with the door to the upstairs open and a fan running. There are a handful of other butt joints in the other rooms without cracks, but two of the seams that showed up were touch-up coated the night before primer, so very likely thats the cause. I'll try a light scuff and recoat before cutting out and replacing with paper tape.

I like the mesh tape but I think I'll only use it for recessed joints, hole patch jobs, and around poorly cut electrical boxes. It tends to bulk up on the butt joints for me, hard to feather out without leaving a bump/high spot, and too easy to sand through and scuff although I find working with paper tape to have its own challenges as well. :o