Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Complete Bath Remodel (in stages)
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cberry135
05-18-08, 12:25 PM
I am in the the process of remodeling the main bathroom in the house. Had to be done in stages, (not my preferred method, but required to keep the household happy :D
First stage was rip out all the old floor tile, vanity, toilet, and take wall down to studs. I have installed new floor tile (I have to set some next the the tub and wall in the stage 2 remodel), reinstalled the toilet, and installed new pedestal sink. (I finished the lower section of the sink toilet wall with PVC base wainscotting).
This is a narrow bathroom approx. 4' wide and 9'6" long, with the tub in an alcove. I am attaching a picture so you can seen how the bathroom used to look.
I have now taken down all the tile, and drywall on that was around the tub, so I am left with studs and an old cast iron tub. I had planned to leave the tub in place (really heavy :( ) and have re-glazed professionally ($250 quote), then put tile back around the tub.
I am now rethinking this issue. :wall: Should I keep the tub, or take out, and install new? (Not exactly sure how, yet?). Removal would also require replacing drain pipe probably ??? (Tub connected to old style drum trap and has galvanized pipe running in basement to the main stack.)
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk31/cberry135/Bathroom%20Remodel/img_0733.jpg
First stage was rip out all the old floor tile, vanity, toilet, and take wall down to studs. I have installed new floor tile (I have to set some next the the tub and wall in the stage 2 remodel), reinstalled the toilet, and installed new pedestal sink. (I finished the lower section of the sink toilet wall with PVC base wainscotting).
This is a narrow bathroom approx. 4' wide and 9'6" long, with the tub in an alcove. I am attaching a picture so you can seen how the bathroom used to look.
I have now taken down all the tile, and drywall on that was around the tub, so I am left with studs and an old cast iron tub. I had planned to leave the tub in place (really heavy :( ) and have re-glazed professionally ($250 quote), then put tile back around the tub.
I am now rethinking this issue. :wall: Should I keep the tub, or take out, and install new? (Not exactly sure how, yet?). Removal would also require replacing drain pipe probably ??? (Tub connected to old style drum trap and has galvanized pipe running in basement to the main stack.)
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk31/cberry135/Bathroom%20Remodel/img_0733.jpg
Just Bill
05-19-08, 04:52 AM
Looks like a typical 60-70's bathroom. From what I have seen and heard from customers, on site glazing of tubs does not last long. Removing the tub would depend on the condition. But if removal is the route you go, it is easy to get it out with a sledge hammer, in pieces. But I would recommend either a steel or another iron tub. Fiberglass/plastic does not hold up, on the long term. And replacing the galvanized DWV pipes with PVC is needed, including that drum trap.
cberry135
05-19-08, 06:59 AM
Thanks,
There currently is no vent pipe for the tub. Can I just remove the current Drain/ waste piping and replace with PVC and not worry about venting? I would also have to install a clean out on the drain/waste pipping too right?
There currently is no vent pipe for the tub. Can I just remove the current Drain/ waste piping and replace with PVC and not worry about venting? I would also have to install a clean out on the drain/waste pipping too right?
Just Bill
05-20-08, 05:03 AM
There has to be a vent or it would not drain, usually within
6'. Yes, it needs a vent. If the tub drain runs directly to the main stack, that is the vent. You can replace the galvanized with PVC including the trap, pipe should be 2" for a shower, 1 1/2 for a tub. If the existing drain screws into a fitting, use a PVC fitting to match. If it goes into the stack hub, use a donut of the correct size.
6'. Yes, it needs a vent. If the tub drain runs directly to the main stack, that is the vent. You can replace the galvanized with PVC including the trap, pipe should be 2" for a shower, 1 1/2 for a tub. If the existing drain screws into a fitting, use a PVC fitting to match. If it goes into the stack hub, use a donut of the correct size.
Bestguess
05-20-08, 05:32 AM
[QUOTE=cberry135;1366991]
I am now rethinking this issue. :wall: Should I keep the tub, or take out, and install new? (Not exactly sure how, yet?). Removal would also require replacing drain pipe probably ???
Having just taken the decision to replace my old cast iron tub, I regret it now. Why? The old tub fit its footprint perfectly because, I suppose, the walls on either end were built after the tub was placed. The new one? Although it's billed as 60" long, like the original, it's not. It was too short to meet the studs on either end! I had to furr out BOTH WALLS their entire length so the backerboard would hit the lip of the tub. What a nightmare! :mad:
If it's not too late, don't smash up the old tub. Unless you measure PERFECTLY and can assure yourself the tub won't be short of the studs, I'd say leave well enough alone. I'd sooner reglaze five times than go through what I've had to do.
I am now rethinking this issue. :wall: Should I keep the tub, or take out, and install new? (Not exactly sure how, yet?). Removal would also require replacing drain pipe probably ???
Having just taken the decision to replace my old cast iron tub, I regret it now. Why? The old tub fit its footprint perfectly because, I suppose, the walls on either end were built after the tub was placed. The new one? Although it's billed as 60" long, like the original, it's not. It was too short to meet the studs on either end! I had to furr out BOTH WALLS their entire length so the backerboard would hit the lip of the tub. What a nightmare! :mad:
If it's not too late, don't smash up the old tub. Unless you measure PERFECTLY and can assure yourself the tub won't be short of the studs, I'd say leave well enough alone. I'd sooner reglaze five times than go through what I've had to do.
cberry135
05-20-08, 08:36 AM
When I replace the drum trap with a Ptrap, since the drum trap also served a a clean out, Where would you recommend installing a clean out.
Right now, the DWV pipe runs the length of the tub between two floor joists in the basement to the exterior basement wall, makes a 90 degree left turn, runs along the exterior wall below the floor joists, and then angles down to the main stack.
If after the Ptrap, I then have a short drop with a 45 and a Wye fitting with a clean out cap on one end and then continue along the old pipe route would that work?
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk31/cberry135/Bathroom%20Remodel/img_3-1.jpg
Right now, the DWV pipe runs the length of the tub between two floor joists in the basement to the exterior basement wall, makes a 90 degree left turn, runs along the exterior wall below the floor joists, and then angles down to the main stack.
If after the Ptrap, I then have a short drop with a 45 and a Wye fitting with a clean out cap on one end and then continue along the old pipe route would that work?
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk31/cberry135/Bathroom%20Remodel/img_3-1.jpg