Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Plaster v joint compund for new ceiling?

I am redoing a small 3/4 bathroom. I had to remove the old ceiling and put up new greenboard for a new one. I do not want a textured ceiling and was told I could just skim coat the greenboard then paint over that. I was also given conflicting info regarding what to skim coat with. Some say just use joint compound to coat the entire surface, because it's easier than plaster. However others say this will eventually crack and peel. Instead, a plaster ceiling is done with plaster, - which makes sense-but it's a little harder to do. Any idea why it's hard to do by comparison? Can anyone give me the pros and cons of joint compound v plaster for this purpose?

I hope you were told to tape the joints (with paper tape, not mesh) in addition to the joint compound? If so, mud will be fine, if covered by quality primer and paint from a paint store, not a paint department.

Just don't put the Joint Compound on too thick, it has a tendency to shrink and crack as it dries when its put on thick. Use a setting type Joint Compound to prevent cracking (its powder and you mix it yourself).

Question, you said you do not want a textured ceiling, then why the need to skim coat? Just take care of your seams and corners and paint.

I was told that just painting in a bathroom ceiling is a bad idea. Even though we have a very good fan, the steam from the shower will do a number on the "paint over sheetsheet" ceiling. That plaster is must better in a bathroom. Not to mention, ther are seams that definately need serious feathering. So why is joint compound(mud) easier than plaster?

I've painted many slick finish ceilings and as long as the finishing is decent, they look good and if a quality latex enamel or kitchen and bath paint is used [in a bath rm] - it will look good for years to come.

Plaster always gives a nicer look than joint compound but it costs more and isn't a material that is overly diy friendly. Proper finishing of drywall includes feathering each successive coat of j/c out past the last. Joints at the factory beveled edge will be close to a foot wide when finished. Butt joints will be around 2' wide. Usually there is no need for a skim coat to be thick enough for any cracking to take place.

Thanks--great info.

Further questions:
Paper or mesh tape for joint between wall and ceiling? It seems that a self-adhesive tape would facilitate sticking it to the wall part (which is a painted surface).

How wide should the tape be to accommodate the angle?

How is the tape applied to the corners?

I'm not fond of the 'sticky' tape - it often looses it's bond later on :eek: Joint compound acts as the glue for the paper tape. It will adhere fine to flat paint - glossy surfaces should be sanded first.

Paper tape can be used for both the flat joints and the angle joints. It has a line down the middle that allows it to be folded neatly.

Angles are pretty much taped the same way flat joints are. You apply a thin layer of joint compound to both sides, push the folded paper tape in with your fingers and then neatly press in and remove the excess mud with a broad knife [I like to use an angled 3" knife but a regular 3"-6" knife will work] A pro finisher has no problems mudding both sides of the angle at one time [2nd & 3rd coat] but for most diyers it's easier to mud one side of the angle, let it dry and then mud the other side.