All Trucks, Campers, Trailers, RV's and Motor Homes - Sticky Gas Pedal

Recently purchased a 2000 Chev Silverado truck. Sometimes, the gas pedal sticks badly. Usually, when I'm starting out, and the truck is parked in a slight incline. I have greased the connection inside the cab, but doesn't seem to help. Transmission or ABS causing this "sticky" situation? Anyone else had this problem that was solved? Thanks!

If you have lubed it at the cab pedal and the shaft linkage at the throttle body, the sticking is likely in the cable itself. You can either replace the cable = shouldn't be too expensive, or you can try lubing the cable sheath.

For the latter, disconnect the cable at the throttle body so you can elevate it. Then partially fill a small plastic bag with a good grade of penetrating oil = graphite/oil suspended. Retract the cable into the sheath as far as you can and dip the end of the cable sheath into the bag of fluid. Then use a rubber band to seal the bag to the outside of the sheath. Take a number of wraps to prevent leakage. Then invert the bag. The penetrating oil will gravity feed down through the cable and lube it. You can apply a little pressure to the bag to force it through, but do so with discretion. You obviously don't want to rupture the bag.

Hope this helps,

Bob

I'll try lubing the cable, as you've described, this weekend. For an 8 yr old truck, with about 101k miles, I didn't think it would be the cable since it doesn't do it all of the time. I'm hoping you're right because it will be an easy fix. :) Thanks for taking the time to post a reply!

we sharing the same issue, friend.
do not lubricate anything. it's not your gas pedal or cable.
remove air intake hose from throttle body. remove completely so that it does not interfere.
i use brake cleaner, you can use choke and injectors cleaner.
put some rubber gloves on, and with your hand, push throttle plate in as far as you can. it pivots in the center on a hinge. you should see a black ring on the throttle plate and on the mating throttle body opening. that's where it sticks together. tar.
spray that ring liberally with cleaner and wipe off with a rag. clean it all totally. clean throttle plate. cleaning upper half of it is trickier, but doable, i use rag wrapped around a screwdriver. carefull though, it's all aluminum around.
when you done cleaning, jamm rag into the opening to keep plate open for a few minutes so that all fumes evaporate.
that's it. done this on 2000 silverado, my ranger had the same issue, even worse - gone :thumbup: :thumbup:

Thanks, ukrkoz. I'll try that, and keep you posted. :D

Might want to use an old toothbrush. We use small brushes and carb cleaner, but brake cleaner may be a better option for you, since it evaporates quick unlike carb cleaner. The carb cleaner will pool in the intake manifold and more than likely throw a misfire DTC when you start it up.

Thanks, ukrkoz. I'll try that, and keep you posted. :D

you bet, friend! it worked well so far. tooth brush is a great suggestion either. don't worry about carb cleaner sucking into manifold, just let it evaporate. if the worse comes to worse, and she hesitates on start, then keep throttle down to the floor, will bring lots of air in and flush the stuff out.

btw, stay away from thing called M3 cleaner. or something real close in name. stuff killed my engine on Honda. took me 10 minutes to have it recirculated and engine to start again.

[QUOTE=ukrkoz;1362159]
i use brake cleaner, you can use choke and injectors cleaner.
QUOTE]

as a note Brake Kleen can and will ruin rubber parts and bushings the proper chemical to be ued is an air intake cleener