Air Conditioning - Carrier control unit
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MontyM
04-26-08, 07:35 PM
First of all, great site!
I have a 9 year old Carrier unit model 58MXA that has a inside blower that does not turn on. There are no LED fault codes present.
Following the manual's troubleshooting flow chart points to, "Replace control if it does not respond to 24vac at W,Y or G terminals." 24vac is present on G. I also checked and it had no power to blower motor, and it also does not turn on in test mode.
Could it be something else?:confused:
Does anyone know of a parts place on-line that may have this control unit:
Thanks
UPDATE: After reading similar posts with relays as a possible cause, it looks like there is a relay labled Hi/Lo for blower on contol unit PCB. It may be a lot cheeper to try this before the whole $300 controller.
I have a 9 year old Carrier unit model 58MXA that has a inside blower that does not turn on. There are no LED fault codes present.
Following the manual's troubleshooting flow chart points to, "Replace control if it does not respond to 24vac at W,Y or G terminals." 24vac is present on G. I also checked and it had no power to blower motor, and it also does not turn on in test mode.
Could it be something else?:confused:
Does anyone know of a parts place on-line that may have this control unit:
Thanks
UPDATE: After reading similar posts with relays as a possible cause, it looks like there is a relay labled Hi/Lo for blower on contol unit PCB. It may be a lot cheeper to try this before the whole $300 controller.
pflor
04-26-08, 08:46 PM
First of all, turn power off and with the blower door removed, try giving the fan wheel a gentle spin...the wheel should spin freely. If it doesn't, find out why and fix.
If it does spin freely:
Second, check to see if the fan capacitor is defective. Remove, look for the rating (xx-microfarads) and test with a capacitor tester (any good digital multimeter has a capacitor test feature incorporated to it). If capacitor proves defective, replace with one having same mfd and V ratings.
If first and second above prove good,
third:
1- turn the thermostat's fan switch from AUTO to ON
2- armed with the digital multimeter set to read volts, go to the furnace, remove the door of the control panel
3- check for 24V between terminals "G" and "C" at the t-stat terminal board (top right corner of the Printed Control Board - PCB)..."0V" would indicate: bad t-stat wire or bad t-stat.
4- if you do read 24V on "3" above, check for 120V between the black and white wires of the blower...you can do this right at the terminals on the PCB...look for the terminals "cool" (blk wire attached to it) and "com" (white wire attached to it).
If the reading is "0", the blower relay on the PCB is bad, PCB must be replaced
If the reading is 120V, the motor is electrically defective and must be replaced.
Who's the official parts vendor for Carrier? Totaline
have your unit's M/N and S/N ready
http://www.totaline.com/
p.s.: the relays on the board are soldered to a printed board, real tough to disassemble...you're better off getting a new board.
Hope this helps.
If it does spin freely:
Second, check to see if the fan capacitor is defective. Remove, look for the rating (xx-microfarads) and test with a capacitor tester (any good digital multimeter has a capacitor test feature incorporated to it). If capacitor proves defective, replace with one having same mfd and V ratings.
If first and second above prove good,
third:
1- turn the thermostat's fan switch from AUTO to ON
2- armed with the digital multimeter set to read volts, go to the furnace, remove the door of the control panel
3- check for 24V between terminals "G" and "C" at the t-stat terminal board (top right corner of the Printed Control Board - PCB)..."0V" would indicate: bad t-stat wire or bad t-stat.
4- if you do read 24V on "3" above, check for 120V between the black and white wires of the blower...you can do this right at the terminals on the PCB...look for the terminals "cool" (blk wire attached to it) and "com" (white wire attached to it).
If the reading is "0", the blower relay on the PCB is bad, PCB must be replaced
If the reading is 120V, the motor is electrically defective and must be replaced.
Who's the official parts vendor for Carrier? Totaline
have your unit's M/N and S/N ready
http://www.totaline.com/
p.s.: the relays on the board are soldered to a printed board, real tough to disassemble...you're better off getting a new board.
Hope this helps.
MontyM
04-27-08, 12:59 PM
Thanks for the info.
I took the control board out and the Hi/Lo relay, has a burnt trace on one of its legs, this particular leg feeds the blower. It would not be a problem for me to replace both relays, since I do this a lot, except I'm having more trouble finding a replacement for these particular relays then I am the board.
I took the control board out and the Hi/Lo relay, has a burnt trace on one of its legs, this particular leg feeds the blower. It would not be a problem for me to replace both relays, since I do this a lot, except I'm having more trouble finding a replacement for these particular relays then I am the board.
Ed Imeduc
04-27-08, 02:00 PM
Your better off with a new board.
MontyM
04-27-08, 02:34 PM
I may have more problems. The trace that burnt was on the contact for the "cool" "hi" line to motor. I'll take pflor's advice and check the motor and start cap first, I hate to put a new board in then have it burn up.
pflor
04-27-08, 06:40 PM
Ed's advice is sound.
The components on those boards were not made to be exchanged. I doubt you'll be able to find a replacement relay.
The components on those boards were not made to be exchanged. I doubt you'll be able to find a replacement relay.
MontyM
05-01-08, 11:49 PM
My HVAC is up and running. Thanks for the help.