Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Installing pavers around a pool
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AllenO
04-20-08, 07:25 PM
We have an inground pool (vinyl lined/steel walled) that had a very uneven brick patio where the bricks were set in 8 inches of sand. Replacing this patio has been on our to-do list for 14 years and it finally made it to the top. We've pulled up the bricks, dug up the sand and now have a octagonal shaped hole that surrounds our oval pool.
My plans are to lay stabilization/geotextile fabric in the hole and up the sides, and on the pool side - have a 2" sand buffer between the steel wall and the fabric (2" is roughly the width of the pool panel braces). The fabric would be directly up against the braces but not the steel walls. Then lay 3-4 inches of the 3/4 inch crushed blend that the masonry supply houses locally recommend for a base. Compact that blend. Lay another 3-4 inches of the blend and compact. Install a vinyl edger (my stone base extends 6 inches beyond the patio). Then spread and level the stone dust roughly 1 inch thick and compact that before re-installing the bricks.
With that plan - I have two questions...
1. Is it ok to use a plate compacter close to an 30 year old inground steel walled pool? Obviously we'll be careful not to touch the walls - but will the vibrations cause me a problem?
2. With the irregular shape of my patio (octagon with an oval pool in the middle), at the narrowest points the patio is 3'6", and at the corners it is just under ten feet. The fabric comes in 12 foot width. Any suggestions on how to lay it? If I cut it in half for the longer sides of the oval (I'll have 6' to work with) and use 12' wide sections for my corners I presume I should have an overlap - but how much? Or is it simply best to buy the extra fabric and then cut out the excess?
Thanks in advance!
My plans are to lay stabilization/geotextile fabric in the hole and up the sides, and on the pool side - have a 2" sand buffer between the steel wall and the fabric (2" is roughly the width of the pool panel braces). The fabric would be directly up against the braces but not the steel walls. Then lay 3-4 inches of the 3/4 inch crushed blend that the masonry supply houses locally recommend for a base. Compact that blend. Lay another 3-4 inches of the blend and compact. Install a vinyl edger (my stone base extends 6 inches beyond the patio). Then spread and level the stone dust roughly 1 inch thick and compact that before re-installing the bricks.
With that plan - I have two questions...
1. Is it ok to use a plate compacter close to an 30 year old inground steel walled pool? Obviously we'll be careful not to touch the walls - but will the vibrations cause me a problem?
2. With the irregular shape of my patio (octagon with an oval pool in the middle), at the narrowest points the patio is 3'6", and at the corners it is just under ten feet. The fabric comes in 12 foot width. Any suggestions on how to lay it? If I cut it in half for the longer sides of the oval (I'll have 6' to work with) and use 12' wide sections for my corners I presume I should have an overlap - but how much? Or is it simply best to buy the extra fabric and then cut out the excess?
Thanks in advance!
Concretemasonry
04-20-08, 08:15 PM
Sounds good until you get to the stone dust and compacting it.
Typical installation instructions/specifications for interlocking concrete pavers call for the base to be compacted to parallel the slope desired for drainage.
On the compacted base, you placed a 1" setting bed of concrete sand (clean). This sould be screeded off and not compacted.
The pavers are set tightly on the uncompacted sand base. Spread fine sand (mason's sand is best) over the pavers and vibrate with a plate vibrator. Sweep off the excess sand. The vibration seats and levels the pavers and interlocks the units into a tight slab with the fine sand. - Just try to get one out of the field and you will find out how tight it is.
This is the typical specification for patios, driveways, streets, airport taxiways and heavy industrial applications such as ship unloading straddle loaders. - Go to the Interlocking Concrete Paver Insitute site (icpi.org I believe) for a series of technical documants.
Typical installation instructions/specifications for interlocking concrete pavers call for the base to be compacted to parallel the slope desired for drainage.
On the compacted base, you placed a 1" setting bed of concrete sand (clean). This sould be screeded off and not compacted.
The pavers are set tightly on the uncompacted sand base. Spread fine sand (mason's sand is best) over the pavers and vibrate with a plate vibrator. Sweep off the excess sand. The vibration seats and levels the pavers and interlocks the units into a tight slab with the fine sand. - Just try to get one out of the field and you will find out how tight it is.
This is the typical specification for patios, driveways, streets, airport taxiways and heavy industrial applications such as ship unloading straddle loaders. - Go to the Interlocking Concrete Paver Insitute site (icpi.org I believe) for a series of technical documants.