Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - Toto Supreme Toilet Keeps Running: Easy Fix
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Sidecar
04-20-08, 03:34 PM
My Toto Supreme toilet kept running one day. It would flush, refill and flush again all by itself.
Examining the innards, I saw that the cosmic fill valve (that controls incoming water, not the flapper valve at the bottom of the tank) simply did not shut off and that water had reached the overflow tube, filled the bowl and eventually caused a new flush. It was daunting as there are no visible moving parts to the valve. Like I said, cosmic.
Owning a fancy Japanese Toto toilet (the best toilet I have ever owned, by the way), I expected a monumental cost and delay for hard-to-find exotic parts. That, and I saw no way to access the fill valve itself as no screws or other fasteners are visible. I'm used to float arms and brass screws and stuff. Not here.
The web to the rescue: http://www.terrylove.com/hunter.htm had full description of the Model 528 Korky fill valve. Turns out it's made Wisconsin and is easily available at local ACE Hardware stores (but not Home Depot).
Better still, the problem was not the fill valve itself, but the Fill Valve Cap: the part on top that holds the thin diaphragm that gets tired with age and water condition. Mine had lasted seven years without issue.
http://www.korky.com/FillValveCapAssemblyR528.html shows the part (Korky R528) and has full instructions.
While at ACE I almost bought the complete 528 fill valve, then saw the blisterpack with the R528 QuietFill Toilet Fill Valve Replacement Cap next to it for (wait for it) $3.00.
Installation took all of two minutes and required no tools because of the genius design of the Korky fill valve.
Turn off the water. Tug the 1/4" bowl-fill tube off the cap. Snap off the cover. Gently squeeze the float valve arms together to remove the float. Hold the main valve with one hand and turn the cap to the left (CCW) 1/8 turn and it comes off. Replace with the new cap, put the float, tube and cover back on and you're in business.
Could not have been easier, faster or cheaper.
My thanks to ACE Hardware for carrying the parts. And to www.TerryLove.com for his helpful advice.
Examining the innards, I saw that the cosmic fill valve (that controls incoming water, not the flapper valve at the bottom of the tank) simply did not shut off and that water had reached the overflow tube, filled the bowl and eventually caused a new flush. It was daunting as there are no visible moving parts to the valve. Like I said, cosmic.
Owning a fancy Japanese Toto toilet (the best toilet I have ever owned, by the way), I expected a monumental cost and delay for hard-to-find exotic parts. That, and I saw no way to access the fill valve itself as no screws or other fasteners are visible. I'm used to float arms and brass screws and stuff. Not here.
The web to the rescue: http://www.terrylove.com/hunter.htm had full description of the Model 528 Korky fill valve. Turns out it's made Wisconsin and is easily available at local ACE Hardware stores (but not Home Depot).
Better still, the problem was not the fill valve itself, but the Fill Valve Cap: the part on top that holds the thin diaphragm that gets tired with age and water condition. Mine had lasted seven years without issue.
http://www.korky.com/FillValveCapAssemblyR528.html shows the part (Korky R528) and has full instructions.
While at ACE I almost bought the complete 528 fill valve, then saw the blisterpack with the R528 QuietFill Toilet Fill Valve Replacement Cap next to it for (wait for it) $3.00.
Installation took all of two minutes and required no tools because of the genius design of the Korky fill valve.
Turn off the water. Tug the 1/4" bowl-fill tube off the cap. Snap off the cover. Gently squeeze the float valve arms together to remove the float. Hold the main valve with one hand and turn the cap to the left (CCW) 1/8 turn and it comes off. Replace with the new cap, put the float, tube and cover back on and you're in business.
Could not have been easier, faster or cheaper.
My thanks to ACE Hardware for carrying the parts. And to www.TerryLove.com for his helpful advice.