Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Deck Building Questions
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drkphx
04-19-08, 12:23 PM
After reading several books about deck design and building I have several questions that I was hoping someone could answer. The deck will be freestanding. It will 20' long and 15' deep. The 20' side will run along next to the house.
1. How many and what size posts and beams do I need to support the deck? I've seen the span tables in the books, but as I understand it those are the minimums, and I don't want the deck to have a bounce to it. Also, I live in Michigan and some winters we tend to get quite a bit of snow.
2. Several of the books say to fill the bottom of the footing holes with gravel. Another says no gravel. Which is correct?
3. When hanging the joists I have seen two methods. One uses joists hangers and the other rests the joists on top of the beams. Is either one better than the other? Also, if the joists are resting on top of the beam, what keeps the joists in place? Is it a fastener similar to what connects a beam to the top of a post?
1. How many and what size posts and beams do I need to support the deck? I've seen the span tables in the books, but as I understand it those are the minimums, and I don't want the deck to have a bounce to it. Also, I live in Michigan and some winters we tend to get quite a bit of snow.
2. Several of the books say to fill the bottom of the footing holes with gravel. Another says no gravel. Which is correct?
3. When hanging the joists I have seen two methods. One uses joists hangers and the other rests the joists on top of the beams. Is either one better than the other? Also, if the joists are resting on top of the beam, what keeps the joists in place? Is it a fastener similar to what connects a beam to the top of a post?
drkphx
04-19-08, 12:33 PM
Forgot to mention that the deck will be about 5' above grade.
rookieRobert
04-19-08, 01:08 PM
DRKPHX
not sure about Michigan but my sister in law just got Nailed from DOB-NYC for not getting a stupid permit for her deck addition she did.... after fines, hiring a engineer firm (mandatory during violation corrections here) to redraft plans , filing fees, etc..... $$3000 dollars GONE ... in addition to her orig. deck fees to subcontrctr.
now, that said >> i was adding a staircase from my 2nd story deck and then adding a deck (ground level) to my house after this.... needless to say I filed for the permit....i also worked with MY City bldg dept and he changed things that I originally planned for MY deck constr..... all depending on
a. height from ground
b. span distance from ledger board
c. material i was using to construct stairs AND materials I was using to "top" the deck with...
Again, i had to handle my sisters issues as she had no clue and really would not want ANYONE to have to go through all that hassle .... don't know your area but PLEASE draw up your plans (sketch only) and take 30min to go to your towns Bldg Dept and ask them ... usually they are good about this....
We also had to dig our footings 36" AND have them inspected for depth BEFORE pouring.... too many things can hold you up here....
my comments (outside above) is
1. why "freestanding" deck? is this your choice or to get around CO issues? why don't you use the 20' side of your house to properly secure (with lagbolts) a good 2x12 ledger board? definitely will help in the stability of your deck >> even with stud blocking, joist Cross-bracing and post diagonal Cross bracing used if this is free standing the forces at play, i am told (no engineer here) are enough to bring down the deck at some later date....
2. post size -- if this were ME adding this i would be using 4"x4" posts -- but due to 5 feet above grade they might want the next size up.....don't know your areas code
3. bottom of footing hole >> think more important the DEPTH and making sure NO AIR GAPS ... when i poured mine i did add 1"-2" of crush stone gravel on the bottom .. more so to give the concrete something good to hold too....sure it did not make a difference ..... anyway... as you pour make sure you are taking a stick or something every few feet of pour and poking down into the hole.... air gaps will kill this footing if they are left there.... are you doing this WITH the post or are you just pouring a concrete footing with a J-bolt (for securing post later) ? Are you using those concrete forms too?? what size diameter?
4. joist connections >> i like joist hangers for two reasons... feels stronger as totally able to connect to headers and beams directly.... AND it does not raise the height of the deck/construction !!
sorry , just my .02 worth!!
rf
not sure about Michigan but my sister in law just got Nailed from DOB-NYC for not getting a stupid permit for her deck addition she did.... after fines, hiring a engineer firm (mandatory during violation corrections here) to redraft plans , filing fees, etc..... $$3000 dollars GONE ... in addition to her orig. deck fees to subcontrctr.
now, that said >> i was adding a staircase from my 2nd story deck and then adding a deck (ground level) to my house after this.... needless to say I filed for the permit....i also worked with MY City bldg dept and he changed things that I originally planned for MY deck constr..... all depending on
a. height from ground
b. span distance from ledger board
c. material i was using to construct stairs AND materials I was using to "top" the deck with...
Again, i had to handle my sisters issues as she had no clue and really would not want ANYONE to have to go through all that hassle .... don't know your area but PLEASE draw up your plans (sketch only) and take 30min to go to your towns Bldg Dept and ask them ... usually they are good about this....
We also had to dig our footings 36" AND have them inspected for depth BEFORE pouring.... too many things can hold you up here....
my comments (outside above) is
1. why "freestanding" deck? is this your choice or to get around CO issues? why don't you use the 20' side of your house to properly secure (with lagbolts) a good 2x12 ledger board? definitely will help in the stability of your deck >> even with stud blocking, joist Cross-bracing and post diagonal Cross bracing used if this is free standing the forces at play, i am told (no engineer here) are enough to bring down the deck at some later date....
2. post size -- if this were ME adding this i would be using 4"x4" posts -- but due to 5 feet above grade they might want the next size up.....don't know your areas code
3. bottom of footing hole >> think more important the DEPTH and making sure NO AIR GAPS ... when i poured mine i did add 1"-2" of crush stone gravel on the bottom .. more so to give the concrete something good to hold too....sure it did not make a difference ..... anyway... as you pour make sure you are taking a stick or something every few feet of pour and poking down into the hole.... air gaps will kill this footing if they are left there.... are you doing this WITH the post or are you just pouring a concrete footing with a J-bolt (for securing post later) ? Are you using those concrete forms too?? what size diameter?
4. joist connections >> i like joist hangers for two reasons... feels stronger as totally able to connect to headers and beams directly.... AND it does not raise the height of the deck/construction !!
sorry , just my .02 worth!!
rf
connie
04-20-08, 05:02 AM
Good morning,
Robert's suggestion to take your plans to the building department are the only way to go, here. The city or county where you live will have specific requirements for the depth of footers, length of span,how close to property line, etc.
Also, I'm sorry to disagree with Robert, but in Virginia, you may not fasten the deck to the ledger board of your house...the deck must be freestanding.
Connie
Robert's suggestion to take your plans to the building department are the only way to go, here. The city or county where you live will have specific requirements for the depth of footers, length of span,how close to property line, etc.
Also, I'm sorry to disagree with Robert, but in Virginia, you may not fasten the deck to the ledger board of your house...the deck must be freestanding.
Connie