Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Resetting Brick Walkway
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coyotehills
04-17-08, 09:02 AM
I needed to remove and then reinstall the walkway below for 25' so that piers can be installed at the corner of the house. I expected to find sand and then gravel (or at least signs of gravel) below the bricks. Instead I find sand an NO gravel what so ever, this walk has been installed 20+ years. There is concrete under the sand for the first 12-15" from wall and then nothing but soil. Is it safe to relevel and tamp the soil after pier work is done then add sand? Or should I remove additional soil, add proper size and amount of gravel, tamp and then add sand?
Thanks in advance for your help!
http://www.csprep.com/images/walk1.jpg
http://www.csprep.com/images/walk2.jpg
http://www.csprep.com/images/walk3.jpg
Thanks in advance for your help!
http://www.csprep.com/images/walk1.jpg
http://www.csprep.com/images/walk2.jpg
http://www.csprep.com/images/walk3.jpg
Concretemasonry
04-17-08, 09:45 AM
A common solution would be to remove any chunks of concrete and soil. Replace with gravel compacted to be parallel the the planned top of the pavers (sloped for drainage). Place a 1" setting bed of uncompacted concrete sand and screed off parallel to the planned surface. Set the pavers in the desired pattern, fill with masonry sand and sweep off the excess.
There shouild be edging along the outside to prevent the pavers from moving and the joints from opening.
It is difficult to tell if you have clay brick or concrete pavers. If you have concrete pavers, they would have spacers cast in the sides and they should be set as tight as possible and may be vibrated into place after the sand is spread, which will increase the stregth and stability tremendously.
Often, brick pavers are a traditional brick shape and are not designed the have the dimensions to interlock for different patterns. This prevents uniform tight joints.
There shouild be edging along the outside to prevent the pavers from moving and the joints from opening.
It is difficult to tell if you have clay brick or concrete pavers. If you have concrete pavers, they would have spacers cast in the sides and they should be set as tight as possible and may be vibrated into place after the sand is spread, which will increase the stregth and stability tremendously.
Often, brick pavers are a traditional brick shape and are not designed the have the dimensions to interlock for different patterns. This prevents uniform tight joints.
Tscarborough
04-17-08, 10:02 AM
Those are wire cut clay, nominal sized with no spacers.
Concretemasonry
04-17-08, 11:05 AM
TS -
I agree. I was looking at the length of 2 ends (7 1/4") in comparison the the full length (7 5/8") assuming modular brick. - You will never have consistant tight joints.
I agree. I was looking at the length of 2 ends (7 1/4") in comparison the the full length (7 5/8") assuming modular brick. - You will never have consistant tight joints.
coyotehills
04-18-08, 05:29 AM
Thanks for the info. The concrete I have run into is not loose chunks but appears to almost be a paved surface connected to house (top center photo 3) Also there was never any gravel used and lasted 20+ years, should I use gravel even though can not spread entire width?
TIA
TIA
Tscarborough
04-18-08, 08:09 PM
The concrete in your photos is slop from the foundation pour.
Just lay the bricks in the dirt and use fine sharp sand to fill the joints. Lay them all, then use a screw driver to set your alignments and joint widths, then dump sand and spread it around. Unless it is totally dry, you are wasting your time.
Once dry sweep it in and you are done.
Just lay the bricks in the dirt and use fine sharp sand to fill the joints. Lay them all, then use a screw driver to set your alignments and joint widths, then dump sand and spread it around. Unless it is totally dry, you are wasting your time.
Once dry sweep it in and you are done.
motorfly
04-19-08, 03:20 AM
if that wet clay was undisturbed, then you should lay at least 3 inches of screenings, or sand above it. no need to tamp for a residential walkway at this point, unless that clay was dug out during this experience,if clay has been re-filled, it should be removed 8 inches, get the proper slope, lay 8-9 inches limestone screenings, or sand, as you are intalling pavers, walk all over your new sand, and re-level over, and again. This usually works. Laying any stone on that base will usually be temporary, unless said base is truly 20 years old, undisturrbed. then you have a chance