Heat Pumps and Electric Heating - Running suction & pressure lines
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pauldixon
04-16-08, 10:42 AM
I am finishing my basement right now and I need to run my copper lines from my furnace to my yet to be installed heat pump before everything is drywalled over.
So I have a few questions about running the lines.
1. I will be getting a 3ton unit. From what I have seen I think I need 7/8" & 3/8" tube (my run is less than 70')?
2. can I bend this tube by hand or do I need a pipe bender?
3. How much extra should I leave on each end?
4. Any tips or advice?
5. And maybe this should have been my first question - I don't think that I am but - am I in over my head? The heating contractors around here are all really busy and I figured for just running the line I should be able to do that myself as I am doing everything else in my basement.
Thanks.
Paul
So I have a few questions about running the lines.
1. I will be getting a 3ton unit. From what I have seen I think I need 7/8" & 3/8" tube (my run is less than 70')?
2. can I bend this tube by hand or do I need a pipe bender?
3. How much extra should I leave on each end?
4. Any tips or advice?
5. And maybe this should have been my first question - I don't think that I am but - am I in over my head? The heating contractors around here are all really busy and I figured for just running the line I should be able to do that myself as I am doing everything else in my basement.
Thanks.
Paul
airman.1994
04-16-08, 10:48 AM
Id make sure of the line size before running. 70 feet is a LOOOOOOONNNNG way can you get it any closer. No you can bend by hand. Don't kink the pipe.
pauldixon
04-16-08, 01:05 PM
Thanks for the reply. The actual tube length will be 55-60' but I wanted to buy 70' to ensure I have enough (I bought 70' of 18/5 wire to control it and there is lots left over at each end.) Not really anywhere to move the heat pump. I could oversize the lines I guess but everywhere I look I can't find the manufacturer's spec on what line sizes to run. Must be a trade secret.
So if I understand you correctly - I can bend by hand as long as I don't kink the pipe?
Paul
So if I understand you correctly - I can bend by hand as long as I don't kink the pipe?
Paul
pauldixon
04-17-08, 10:39 AM
I thought I'd reply to my own post since I couldn't find the info any where on the web.
This is what I have learned from a local HVAC installer -
My house is 1600 on the main so 3 ton unit is required. I remeasured accurately and my copper pipe run from my furnace to my heat pump will be right around 50'.
If I want to go with the new R410A freon I can use a 3/4" suction line. If I go with the older R22 freon I have to use a 7/8" suction line. Size difference is due to the higher pressure of the R410A freon. Pipe comes in 50' lengths so that should just be enough.
Re Wiring - I need a 8 wire conductor from the furnace to the heat pump and from the TStat to the furnace. I also need a two wire conductor from the Tstat to outside for the temperature sensor.
Hopefully this helps someone out...
This is what I have learned from a local HVAC installer -
My house is 1600 on the main so 3 ton unit is required. I remeasured accurately and my copper pipe run from my furnace to my heat pump will be right around 50'.
If I want to go with the new R410A freon I can use a 3/4" suction line. If I go with the older R22 freon I have to use a 7/8" suction line. Size difference is due to the higher pressure of the R410A freon. Pipe comes in 50' lengths so that should just be enough.
Re Wiring - I need a 8 wire conductor from the furnace to the heat pump and from the TStat to the furnace. I also need a two wire conductor from the Tstat to outside for the temperature sensor.
Hopefully this helps someone out...
GregH
04-17-08, 04:12 PM
In answer to your question I really think you are in over your head.
A problem is that in order to work on this equipment you need to be certified.
Or, if you intend to run the lines and have someone else install the unit and coil you will be relieving the installer of any warranty.
Because it is not allowed to do refrigeration work yourself we do not offer or support any advice on this subject.
Here (http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=315401) is a sticky that explains this.
A problem is that in order to work on this equipment you need to be certified.
Or, if you intend to run the lines and have someone else install the unit and coil you will be relieving the installer of any warranty.
Because it is not allowed to do refrigeration work yourself we do not offer or support any advice on this subject.
Here (http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=315401) is a sticky that explains this.
pauldixon
05-06-08, 11:00 AM
Whoa - Greg - you are not serious right?? All I am talking about is running the lines. No mention of welding or charging or anything to do with refridgerant. Obviously if I get the line sizing wrong then the AC installer will have to run new lines or void the warranty. Its not rocket science though so I am sure I am fine with what I have installed.
Installing was easy - uncoil the copper making sure not to kink it. The hardest part was getting it to make the 90deg bend outside (in a 2x6 wall). One thing I did on my installers advice was to buy the good quality lines that are capped to ensure no crap gets into them - costs more but supposedly well worth it.
Installing was easy - uncoil the copper making sure not to kink it. The hardest part was getting it to make the 90deg bend outside (in a 2x6 wall). One thing I did on my installers advice was to buy the good quality lines that are capped to ensure no crap gets into them - costs more but supposedly well worth it.
airman.1994
05-06-08, 01:25 PM
I have never seen a line set that is not capped!
GregH
05-06-08, 03:09 PM
Whoa pauldixon, I am serious.
Did you not read the sticky?
Did you not read the sticky?