Plumbing and Piping - Need to re-route plumbing in kitchen

I gutted my kitchen for remodeling. As it happend, the previous owner placed the hot and cold water lines far from where the sink actually was and ran exposed lines along the perimeter of the wall where the line comes out from to the wall where the sink is. (they were in the cabinets essentially)

So I do not have to cut into our new cabinets I want to place the plumbing in the wall. So essentially what I would be doing is removing the current plumbing and then place new lines directly to the wall where the sink would be instead of where the are now.

However, where the kitchen is, running lines would be tricky as no basement is below it. At the same time, the previous owner has already ran a drain pipe where that wall is, so I know this is possible and I could probably follow the drain line to get to where I would like to go. (another reason to do this is because you can see the lines going into the basement at the trim of our living room)


So, not knowing very much at all about plumbing - especially dealing with copper - I would like some online / real book references that I could go to/pick up and read.

What are your suggested readings? more importanly, what are your tips?

Tools I would need?

In terms of my handyman skill - i would not say I know nothing, I know how to use what you would find in a tool box and I could probably tell you what tool is used for what job, but I would not be hired by a contractor either.

No guts - no glory... and improving your DIY skills is done by tackling a job and making it work. That being said:

Sounds like you're going to need to remove the walls (which it sounds like you've done) from the studs to access the plumbing. IMO, the best thing to do is run new copper from the old pipes to where you want the new valving. This means running copper - and learning how to cut copper/sweat new connections - not difficult, but there "is" a learning curve. Any DIY plumbing book will explain the process. The tools required will set you back around $30 - $40 (sweating kits at a box store) - and will be a valuable addition to your tool box if there are any potential plumbing projects in your future. In this age of "easy DIY", there are also compression fittings available that will require nothing more than a couple of wrenches and a firm but gentle touch to the fittings. You'll have to drill holes in your wall studs to run the new copper pipe to get to where you want. Again, I'd suggest a $20 investment for a good plumbing book to show the basics - and go from there! Good luck!

Great advice! Ok I will go pick up some books probably this weekend.

I have not removed the wall yet but I knew that was to happen.

Question - when cutting into the studs (I am assuming you mean the horizontal wood as I would be going straight down from the basement) should I be worried about load the wall being a vital support?

Right now the kitchen is pretty much standing on its own, nothing above it - rock below it. But I am worried about drilling possibly into a load bearing? Or future expansion, say I want to build above the kitchen?


More important question: The tubing would probably go straight down to the basement (or actually just a small area) then make a 90 degree turn into the accessible part of the basement...what would your suggestion be to connect the two pieces when i cant work below the piping? Does that make sense?

You just lost me! I assume (bad word, I know) that you currently have copper piping on the floor in question (kitchen)- but not exactly where you want it to be. To move that current connection entails cutting off existing valves - hooking up new pipe to that spot - and running it to where you want it. No stud cutting involved - just a few holes in your wall joists (the vertical components)...

You need to provide a lot more information on what you envision - based on your second post....

thezster:

Ok so I took some time to think about this, I hope I can explain this well:

The current pipes are coming out of the inner wall of the kitchen - this wall is part of the living space as well. You are right, I need to cut the pipes in the basement just after the shut off valves down there - no problem I get that.

I want to put new lines that go to the wall perpendicular to the current wall. This is where the dishwasher and sink and drain is / will be. But that wall is also an exterior wall is. The drain is currently coming up from the floor, which is hardwood and I am not too pleased about, but since its there, I figure I can just do the same for the hot and cold water. However, that space underneith the kitchen is not part of the basement, there is a small hole there large enough for my hands and pipes to go through, but apparently small enough for a contractor to tell me they would prefer to drill through the load-bearing columns and place the plumbing through the wall instead of going underneith the kitchen.

I'd prefer to just go underneith the kitchen so:

What kind of insulation would I need for the pipes so they would not freeze since they would be hugging the exterior wall? I live in CT in terms of weather.

Can I really use PVC for cold and hot water lines (reliable?)? I thought copper was the only way but I know how to handle PVC and I would have to learn how to use copper (solder).

If I can use PVC, how would I connect the PVC to already existing copper lines? Also, would I have to buy special shutoff valves for that then?

We can go from there with more ideas.

EDIT: Truely, i prefer to use copper, but I know how to use PVC so ultimately, I am afraid of setting up copper lines and then they start to leak, explode, flood the basement, etc...although everything Ive read its ok, i guess I just need some running practice.

Some pictures of the way it is now and then a description of what you want to accomplish may help us to understand fully your problem.

Perhaps the new location of the sink will be such that you don't need to go into that exterior wall.

PVC cannot be used for inside distribution, you need to use CPVC instead. My preference would be to use the copper for supply piping. If you decide to go with plastic then adapters to threaded pipe are readily available or in some instances you can use transition fittings that have compression couplings or even "Shark Bite" fittings that simply push onto the pipe.

I am a bit concerned about your drain. You cannot just go down through the floor as that will create an "S" trap which is no longer allowed. You need to have the trap properly vented to prevent siphoning of the trap.

Ill get some pictures either today or tomorrow for you.

I am a bit concerned about your drain. You cannot just go down through the floor as that will create an "S" trap which is no longer allowed. You need to have the trap properly vented to prevent siphoning of the trap.


I do not think it is an S connect but Ill post some images tonight - if anything a drawing ;)