Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - Help with lead toilet bend

I'm doing some work in a half bath in a home we just bought. Concrete slab, built in 1971. The bathroom is really small, at some point the toilet was replaced with a huge one piece model that just didn't fit. I'm 6'2" and my knees were hitting the wall, and the flange was about 13 3/4" from the back wall. I pulled the toilet and saw what appeared to be a cast iron flange, so I ordered an offset, cast iron compression flange (really slick). Problem: when I started knocking on my 'cast iron' flange with a hammer and chisel, it bent. What I actually have is a 4" lead pipe coming up through the slab, soldered to a brass flange. The lead appears intact but it's lumpy, and I can actually see what appear to be scratches from an old drain snaking.

I'm pretty stuck. The brass flange is a little low but still in decent shape. I think I could leave it and just install the new (smaller) toilet and gain a little space, but I really need that extra 1 1/2". Anyone know if I could use my cast iron 'compression' type flange with lead? All the other replacement flanges I've seen that go inside the pipe are only straight, no offsets. Or is my only option knocking a big hole in the floor and grafting on PVC to the lead with a coupling? My last option would be taking it all the way to the cast iron, which is just past the turn, about 18" down. That would give me the best outcome (get rid of all the stupid lead) but be the biggest hole, and I'm not big on re-doing the tile in this bath, it's the only thing that was fine!

Any solution here will probably be repeated when I tackle the next bath. This isn't the only plumbing weirdness I've discovered here - the stub out for the sink is 1 1/2" copper. Never seen that before either.

II pulled the toilet and saw what appeared to be a cast iron flange, so I ordered an offset, cast iron compression flange (really slick).

It may be slick, but offset and/or reducing flanges are prohibited by both the International Residential Code (3002.3.1) and the Uniform Plumbing Code (408.5 ).

So, why can you still buy them? Installation of same is usually allowed by the codes if "maintenance" (replacing an old, existing offset flange) but is never allowed for "new work" (for example, moving a toilet - however slightly).

This does not stop frustrated homeowners (and some plumbers) from using them in remodels when space is tight, but when they do I'm obliged to call them out if they are visible during an home inspection - at which point property owners are likely to be upset..."They sell it at Home Depot, so it must be legal!".

Rather than moving the flange, consider a code-compliant alternative such as one of the skirted toilets with an adjustable onset, like the UniFit Totos::

http://www.terrylove.com/wc/toto/unifit_1.jpg

with some of the shorter toilets this will get you within 28" of the wall.

Thanks so much for you help. I've never seen this type of toilet. I have a strange affinity for the Kohler Wellworth, mainly because I've now owned 6 or 7 of them and have never had to unplug one, except for the cat litter thing (I saw that other post). Oh, and they're inexpensive, too. The other 14" rough toilets (including Kohler's) I've seen dealt with it by moving the TANK - the bowl clearance does not change.

I will admit to being ignorant of this code issue. Can you please share the rationale for it? I will admit that I looked at the 2" PVC offset flange at HD, I was a bit concerned that 'stuff' would flow properly through the thing. Is this the only logic behind it?

Lastly, assuming I was to get one of these toilets and install it on the existing flange. Bad idea to leave the lead bend in place?