Gas and Oil Home Heating Furnaces - Carrier Furnace Won't Start

Hello, I am new here and have a problem with a Carrier 8000 weathermaker (model #58TUA). It had been working well, but a few days ago it began tripping the breaker that is related to it on the electrical panel (old pushmatic style) to the point where the breaker would not stay on. I replaced the breaker and it no longer trips, but now when the thermostat calls for heat, absolutley nothing happens in the furnace other than a small audible click. A second click then leads to the solid LED changing to code 32. I tried resetting the draft safeguard and flame rollout switches, no change. I should note that the inducer motor has always been somewhat noisy on start-up and spin down, it does spin freely but has one point in the revolution where is feels as though it is grinding. The fan does work, but no heat at all. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions...gets pretty cold at night!
Thanks again!

I'm no pro and don't have the same furnace but my furnace once had me stumped. It was about this time of year. A starling (bird) was homemaking in the vent. Using a diesel compressor, it shot out at 100 mph. Sometimes repairs are fun. PS Bird's OK

Ha! Pretty funny, glad the bird's OK!... Did not get to check the vent, but was thinking that if it was blocked, would the furnace still at least try to ignite? I get no activity in the furnace except for the little click sent by the thermostat. I'll check the vent later today. Thanks!

In your OP yo say absolutely nothing happens, but then you go on to say how the inducer works. Which is it? Does the inducer come on?

Thanks for the reply...The inducer motor used to work, but was noisy when it did. Now, nothing works at all (thermostat calls for heat, but nothing happens within the furnace itself). Because it has been so cold here at night, I had an HVAC contractor come out yesterday to take a look. Pulled out the inducer motor and found that it is no good (burnt smell + it does not spin well). He then tried to see if if any power was reaching the inducer motor when the thermostat called for heat, but no luck. He told me I need to replace the inducer motor and the circuit board...all together most likely very expensive. I may try to replace the inducer myself, but am not so sure about the board.

I'd take it one step at a time. Not knowing how he tested. It is a given, it sounds like, that the inducer motor is shot. Put one of those in and then see what happens. Unless you have to drive 50 miles or something to get these parts, then it be up to you if you want to do the board right away with it.

I can't remember off the top of my head if the 3 amp? fuse goes out on the board (if it has that) if that also affects the inducer motor function off a relay on the board. Or if a short in the motor or a lockup could have caused that fuse to blow. Not sure. You might want to check for a fuse, in case.

ecman51, thank you for your reply. Yes, there is a small 3amp fuse on the board, still good. I did have to replace this once when the outdoor unit would not come on when the thermostat called for cooling (this was summer 2006). The contractor used a tester plugged into the wiring harness to see if any power was getting to the inducer motor when the call for heat was intitiated, no power seems to be getting to the motor (although, yes the motor is visibly bad). He was also able to get the igniter to glow by using a jumper. The local supplier is still trying to locate the parts for the contractor. It's too cold for me to wait for an online order and the supplier won't sell to the general public. Thanks again!