Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Tiled shower floor question
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bmichel
03-17-08, 10:40 AM
OK, I did my homework, and I built a shower floor, and curb. I can't believe I let my wife talk me into this. If i Used a fiberglass pan, I would be done already.
1. I Installed the correct drain
2. I sloped the subfloor using 3 parts sand to 1 part portland cement plus latex over felt and wire mesh. I used a product called "pre-pitch" from Mark E. Industries as a guide.
3. I installed the membrane up the walls and over the curb.
4. I finished installing the drain, and water tested the liner.
5. I mortared the curb and the sloped tile base using 3 parts sand and 1 part portland cement. I used a weep hole protector and the "pitch perfect" product from the same manufacturer as a slope guide.
5. I installed the tile floor using thinset and latex.
I've heard various ways to install wall board. I am using hardibacker 1/2" with a 4 mil vapor barrier behind it. I was told by several sources to leave a gap between the tiled floor and the hardibacker so that it doesn't wick water that escapes through the tile. Is this correct? I assume that the membrane should handle any water that leaks through the tile.
I have also seen people use concrete and fiberglass board all the way to the subfloor, and built the concrete floor into it.
Did i screw up?
1. I Installed the correct drain
2. I sloped the subfloor using 3 parts sand to 1 part portland cement plus latex over felt and wire mesh. I used a product called "pre-pitch" from Mark E. Industries as a guide.
3. I installed the membrane up the walls and over the curb.
4. I finished installing the drain, and water tested the liner.
5. I mortared the curb and the sloped tile base using 3 parts sand and 1 part portland cement. I used a weep hole protector and the "pitch perfect" product from the same manufacturer as a slope guide.
5. I installed the tile floor using thinset and latex.
I've heard various ways to install wall board. I am using hardibacker 1/2" with a 4 mil vapor barrier behind it. I was told by several sources to leave a gap between the tiled floor and the hardibacker so that it doesn't wick water that escapes through the tile. Is this correct? I assume that the membrane should handle any water that leaks through the tile.
I have also seen people use concrete and fiberglass board all the way to the subfloor, and built the concrete floor into it.
Did i screw up?
Bud Cline
03-17-08, 11:39 AM
I think I was able to find a question in there.
Is this correct?
....and the answer is: Yes!:)
Is this correct?
....and the answer is: Yes!:)
bmichel
03-17-08, 01:54 PM
I am relieved. I have a lot of work sunk into this.
Bud Cline
03-17-08, 02:19 PM
Just be sure to caulk the gap sufficiently.:)
bmichel
03-17-08, 03:03 PM
The shower is roughly 32x48 including the curb. The shower walls are 7' high to accomodate a high hat. There is a 12"x48" up and over" above the entrance. The curb has not been tiled. Where should i start so that I can get all of the grout lines to match up?
HeresJohnny
03-17-08, 03:56 PM
I've heard various ways to install wall board. I am using hardibacker 1/2" with a 4 mil vapor barrier behind it. I was told by several sources to leave a gap between the tiled floor and the hardibacker so that it doesn't wick water that escapes through the tile. Is this correct? I assume that the membrane should handle any water that leaks through the tile.
I have also seen people use concrete and fiberglass board all the way to the subfloor, and built the concrete floor into it.
I've always put up the cement board walls before the final mud bed over the liner. I keep the cement board about 1/2" above the pan liner. The mud helps to hold the cement board in place at the bottom. Keep in mind that you cant nail or screw the cement board through the liner so theres nothing securing the liner for 7 or 8" at the bottom of the cement board. The mud helps to do that, at least thats the theory anyway. The performance of the cement board, thinset and tile is unaffected by water wicking up from the pan. Thats why you are using cement board.:)
You should be fine with the cement board ending just above the tile. I'd put a few dabs of silicone on the back of the cement board between the board and the pan liner to somewhat keep the board from moving/flapping in the breeze. After you install the tile its probably not going anywhere anyway.:)
The shower is roughly 32x48 including the curb. The shower walls are 7' high to accomodate a high hat. There is a 12"x48" up and over" above the entrance. The curb has not been tiled. Where should i start so that I can get all of the grout lines to match up?
Need more info that this.:)
I have also seen people use concrete and fiberglass board all the way to the subfloor, and built the concrete floor into it.
I've always put up the cement board walls before the final mud bed over the liner. I keep the cement board about 1/2" above the pan liner. The mud helps to hold the cement board in place at the bottom. Keep in mind that you cant nail or screw the cement board through the liner so theres nothing securing the liner for 7 or 8" at the bottom of the cement board. The mud helps to do that, at least thats the theory anyway. The performance of the cement board, thinset and tile is unaffected by water wicking up from the pan. Thats why you are using cement board.:)
You should be fine with the cement board ending just above the tile. I'd put a few dabs of silicone on the back of the cement board between the board and the pan liner to somewhat keep the board from moving/flapping in the breeze. After you install the tile its probably not going anywhere anyway.:)
The shower is roughly 32x48 including the curb. The shower walls are 7' high to accomodate a high hat. There is a 12"x48" up and over" above the entrance. The curb has not been tiled. Where should i start so that I can get all of the grout lines to match up?
Need more info that this.:)