Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Tile repair in shower stall

I recently had a water leak under the slab and had my house repiped. One of the shower stalls had the tiles around the valves (3 rows wide x 9 high) removed to expose that shower and the adjacent tub/shower pipes. These tiles are set on 2 inches of concrete with wire backing (house built ibn '72). My question is, is there a way to just patch that area so tile can be replaced or does that shower wall or all the shower walls have to be replaced? I won't be able to match the harvest gold, but thought I could get some decorative tiles to make an accent area. Since the replacement of the wood flooring, repiping and all the sheetrock repair is costing me a bundle, I'm hoping to be able to do something that's not too expensive. Thanks in advance!

Hi Judy,

Do all the surrounding tiles seem solid? If so, (sigh) yes, you can just patch in some replacements.

Yes, they seem very secure. Next question, what would be the best way to patch the area? Would a tile person be able to do both or would I need a different tradeperson? Although I want it to be done at the least cost as possible, I don't want a half-job, or want to get someone to say they can just do this or that when that isn't the best way. Thanks.

Judy, you can do this yourself...there's no need to pay anyone.

You just need a small carton of latex fortified thinset mortar, a notched trowel, a bucket, your tiles, a small carton of grout, and some acrylic caulk.

Brush away any loose mortar, spritz it lightly with water, mix the thinset.(Just add enough water to about a cup of thinset to make a consistency thicker than mayonaisse, but not as thick as peanut butter.) Spread it on the back of the tiles with the smooth side of the trowel like you're icing a cake. Be sure it covers the whole tile. Then use the 1/8" notched side to make a row of ridges in one direction. Knock the mortar you scraped off into the bucket, turn the tile, and go across the mortar in the other direction. (crosshatched)

Push the tile against the wall with a firm motion, twisting a little bit to get it set. Do the same with the other tiles. Use masking tape to hold them in place until they dry (about 24hours. Then come back and we'll tell you what to do next:D

These tiles are set on 2 inches of concrete with wire backing

Connie a-a-a-ahem, a, what about repairing the substrate first, how can she do that?:)

I'll bet the plumber didn't do that, huh?:)

Shoot me! I was making all these analogies about food and lost my train of thought!

Okay, I thought the tiles just fell off. Judy, do you have an actual hole in the wall?

Thats okay :) Yes, big hole.

I hate to admit this, but I think I have to look that up. I was going to tell you what I THINK you do to fill that hole, but I'm pretty sure Mr. Cline will berate me severely if I'm wrong.

(He's already been unusually patient with me!)

Anyway, you can do this, honest!

Free advice and humor. What more could I ask for :) On reinspection, it is one inch of concrete instead of two.

Good Morning, Judy,

I looked for the answer to your particular situation, and didn't find anything different than a typical mortar repair. I couldn't find anything that stated you should use a bonding agent first, but I would.

Before I go any further, though, I should ask you, "Do any of the tiles need cut?" Do they need to be fitted around pipes?

I think I'm assuming everyone has a carbide blade and a pair of tile nippers in the garage. (You don't, do you?)

Would a tile person be able to do both or would I need a different tradeperson?

A tile person will be able to do both.:)

I don't have those tools, but my tool inventory has grown considerably with this house. So...i'm thinking take any remaining tiles out to at least the studs, staple wire to them, add appropriate amount of mortar, let dry and follow previous instructions for tiling?

No, Judy, I don't think that's going to work.

Why don't you do this: call a tile guy, have him patch your tiles.

Save your money for a while. Meanwhile, buy a couple of good tile books, visit some websites like schluter, take a class at the local big box store. (You won't learn how to do much, but you'll get a feel for what it's like to work with tile.)

Visit a stone and tile dealer and see how much beauty and variety there is available to you, if you only could do it yourself!

Start with some easy projects, like a bathroom floor. Get some confidence and experience. You'll find the more you do, the more you want to do. THEN, it's time to redo those 36 year old tiles!

I almost always believe you can do it yourself, but replacing the tiles around the pipes is pretty tricky for a beginner. (and, if it leaks, at least you can call the tile guy back to fix it.):)

Connie

@connie
When you get old & have no more home projects, you should write
a book " YOU CAN DO IT YOURSELF "
( well almost all of it )
by CONNIE

Judy is this substrate wire and concrete only? There is no backerboard attached to the studs? Exactly what do you see when you look at the breech. How was the wall originally built, from the studs outward?:)

Holy cow, Judy! Bud's not gonna give you a pass!!! Can you post some pictures on Picasa or photobucket and put the link here, so we can see just what your problem looks like?

Great idea, jhoward...I'll save you an autographed copy!

There doesn't appear to be any tye of backerboard - black plastic, wire, mortar, tile. I need new batteries in the camera. I'll try to post pics tomorrow.