Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Tub Surround - Direct-to-Stud possible?

I'm in the process of remodeling a bathroom. The bathroom above this one had a leak in the tub drain, and water had gotten behind all the drywall around the tub alcove. I've ripped that all down (which had various colors of mold behind it), and now I'm at the point where I'm contemplating what kind of tub surround to put up.

After doing some research, I'd much prefer to use a direct-to-stud acrylic or fiberglass surround, since it would be both easier to install and I assume more durable. From what I've seen those glue-on ones are pretty junky, and they'd require putting up new drywall also.

But it LOOKS like the direct-to-stud surrounds require a modern tub with a "lip" to butt up against, is this correct? I'd much rather not replace the heavy, good condition cast iron tub that is in the bathroom now if at all possible. This tub is probably 70s or 80s vintage and does not have that "lip" on the outer edge for a surround to go over.

Does anyone know if it is still possible to use one of the 3-piece "direct-to-stud" tub surrounds that they sell at Lowes or HD with this type of tub? Just butt it up and caulk it, or would that never hold?

Thanks a lot!

If you can hold this panel to the wall, you will not have a problem with a good grade of caulk. Make your caulk bead a little thicker than usual as the panels will expand & contract under bathroom conditions. Don't use cheap caulk............

Thanks for the response. That's what I was thinking initially, but after not being able to find any information on this type of application I was a little hesitant. Anyone else have any experience with this situation?

Is this tub on an outside wall?:(

Is this tub on an outside wall?:(
Only the (narrow) end opposite the showerhead is touching an outside wall. Main length of the tub is adjacent to a bedroom.

Most of the direct to stud surrounds need need 60 inches on the back side and cannot be adjusted. Most bathrooms are framed for 60 inches and then 1/2 inch sheetrock, which puts you at 59 inches. Most glue ons can be adjusted.

Most of the direct to stud surrounds need need 60 inches on the back side and cannot be adjusted. Most bathrooms are framed for 60 inches and then 1/2 inch sheetrock, which puts you at 59 inches. Most glue ons can be adjusted.

I've seen "3-piece" direct to stud surrounds at Lowes and HD. In your experience are these 3-piece surrounds made to go together exactly one way, and don't have any "give" to adjust to slight variations from 60 inches?

Also, AFAIK the direct-to-stud tub surrounds stick out from the wall approximately 1/2", same as sheetrock, so as far as lining up with the tub it seems like it would be the same.

I suppose I can always buy one of these units, measure it out and/or dry-fit it, and if it doesn't seem like its gonna work I can always return it.

My main concern is more along the lines of whether this option is feasible at all from a water-infiltration standpoint. The last thing I would want to do is get the thing all up and realize that I can't maintain a seal between the tub and surround.

My main concern is more along the lines of whether this option is feasible at all from a water-infiltration standpoint.
Good thinking. :thumbup:

This cast tub - surely it doesn't have a rolled rim - this is flat right? Then naturally flat is not going to stay level for long, it never does, things settle. Then we'd see water puddling, and you know what comes next.

Raise the tub a bit on the wall side? It's an idea.

I would not like to do that with my name on it.

I just re-read your original post and now see you are down to the studs. So if you have about 60 inches they will fit. You will have to shim the wall if more than 60 inches and if a little small I suppose you could shave some off the studs. Most of the stud mounted surrounds I have dealt with the enclosure is about one inch thick and when you install the sheet rock over the nail flange about 1/2 inch sticks out. So hopefully you will have enough surface for chalking. If it were me I would spend the extra money and also install a new tub that matches the surround. They do have high end glue on tub surrounds that are very nice but of course they are a little spendy. One I like is made by Transolid and their site is easy to find what you may want. Hope this helps.

This is the problem:
This tub ... does not have that "lip" on the outer edge for a surround to go over. ...Just butt it up and caulk it, or would that never hold?

Builder of my last house did this, except it was a acrylic jetted tub, and the top edges actually sloped slightly to the outside. It was designed for drop-in mounting on a tiled or solid surface. Even worse, it had a showerhead in the wall. No seal, caulk, or act of god was going to keep water from leaking over the edge into the wall.

Thats why I wound up ripping it all out and doing a tiled walk-in shower.

Auream, I think you need to seriously look at a new tub,sorry.

This is for a rental. Can't justify the work of ripping out the tub, especially if its perfectly OK.

I think I'm just going to put up some hardibacker instead of drywall (have some extra 1/2" that I was either going to find a place to use or return, might as well use it). Then I'll put one of the nicer glue-on surrounds up, I did see some that actually looked like they wouldn't crack and fall apart after a year.

Oh wait, does annyone know if its okay to attach one of those to hardibacker? I'm loathe to use even water resistant sheetrock, after seeing the mold all over the old sheetrock that was installed.