Kitchen Large Electric Appliances - maytag side by side freezer problems.
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rmarray
03-08-08, 07:43 PM
Hello,
Can anyone tell me why my freezer coil/condenser keeps icing up? I took the panels off of the back of the freezer on the inside and the coil/condenser and the drain pan is all iced up. I have defrosted them just about three weeks ago thinking that the problem was solved buuuutttt when the ice cream was the consistency of jello I checked the coil/condenser again and the same thing happened. The model # of the unit is mzd2768ge by Maytag.( 6 years old) Could it be a thermostat problem or a compressor problem? The fridge works fine, it's just the freezer. I also vacuumed out any dust from the back of the unit where the copper lines and the electrical connections are so that area is clean. I just don't know why the coil/condenser keeps icing up. Oh by the way the fan in the freezer still works but it doesn't blow cold air. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks
Can anyone tell me why my freezer coil/condenser keeps icing up? I took the panels off of the back of the freezer on the inside and the coil/condenser and the drain pan is all iced up. I have defrosted them just about three weeks ago thinking that the problem was solved buuuutttt when the ice cream was the consistency of jello I checked the coil/condenser again and the same thing happened. The model # of the unit is mzd2768ge by Maytag.( 6 years old) Could it be a thermostat problem or a compressor problem? The fridge works fine, it's just the freezer. I also vacuumed out any dust from the back of the unit where the copper lines and the electrical connections are so that area is clean. I just don't know why the coil/condenser keeps icing up. Oh by the way the fan in the freezer still works but it doesn't blow cold air. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks
tooltoter
03-17-08, 01:27 PM
It is could be the adaptive defrost control,the defrost heater or the defrost thermostat.
You can check the heat and the thermostat if you have a meter.
The thermostat must be at operating temperature to be checked.
If the thermostat and the heater check to be good you will have to replace that adaptive defrost control.
You can check the heat and the thermostat if you have a meter.
The thermostat must be at operating temperature to be checked.
If the thermostat and the heater check to be good you will have to replace that adaptive defrost control.
robtaraautumn
10-27-08, 07:52 PM
Hello,
Can anyone tell me why my freezer coil/condenser keeps icing up? I took the panels off of the back of the freezer on the inside and the coil/condenser and the drain pan is all iced up. I have defrosted them just about three weeks ago thinking that the problem was solved buuuutttt when the ice cream was the consistency of jello I checked the coil/condenser again and the same thing happened. The model # of the unit is mzd2768ge by Maytag.( 6 years old) Could it be a thermostat problem or a compressor problem? The fridge works fine, it's just the freezer. I also vacuumed out any dust from the back of the unit where the copper lines and the electrical connections are so that area is clean. I just don't know why the coil/condenser keeps icing up. Oh by the way the fan in the freezer still works but it doesn't blow cold air. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks
I have the SAME refrig and the SAME problem and there are a lot of people online with the same issue. Maytag won't stand behind their product. As much as I paid for the pile of crap, I expect it to work. Have had nothing but problems with it. :madhell:
Have already replaced adaptive frost control once.......not doing it again......this refrig is on the way out.....and I will not be buying anymore maytag products.
Can anyone tell me why my freezer coil/condenser keeps icing up? I took the panels off of the back of the freezer on the inside and the coil/condenser and the drain pan is all iced up. I have defrosted them just about three weeks ago thinking that the problem was solved buuuutttt when the ice cream was the consistency of jello I checked the coil/condenser again and the same thing happened. The model # of the unit is mzd2768ge by Maytag.( 6 years old) Could it be a thermostat problem or a compressor problem? The fridge works fine, it's just the freezer. I also vacuumed out any dust from the back of the unit where the copper lines and the electrical connections are so that area is clean. I just don't know why the coil/condenser keeps icing up. Oh by the way the fan in the freezer still works but it doesn't blow cold air. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks
I have the SAME refrig and the SAME problem and there are a lot of people online with the same issue. Maytag won't stand behind their product. As much as I paid for the pile of crap, I expect it to work. Have had nothing but problems with it. :madhell:
Have already replaced adaptive frost control once.......not doing it again......this refrig is on the way out.....and I will not be buying anymore maytag products.
pugsl
10-28-08, 04:44 AM
Maytag is junk but they were bought out by Whrilpool a couple of years ago and have started Whrilpool machines under maytag name. They should be OK.
ecman51`
10-28-08, 08:07 AM
So it is not defrosting? Pretty straight forward to diagnose.
If you have not followed the threads, I have stated several times that my easy way to do it is use this electric meter I plug into the outlet called a Kill-A-Watt meter. They roughly look like the shape of a light timer you plug into an outlet. Then run the fridge for maybe 15 minutes to chill the coils, unless you catch it when it is already running. But even then, to install the meter in the outlet, and replug in the fridge, it is a good ideas to let the fridge sit unplugged for about 10 minutes first before replugging it in, so the pressures inside equalize.
(Another way, if you do not want to get the test meter, is to turn off every breaker in your house, except the fridge breaker, and then go outside and look at the electric meter after you advance defrost timer to click into the defrost mode.)
You can advance the defrost timer by hand if need be.
Then with the meter in the outlet, and fridge plugged into it, and meter set to watts, you rotate the defrost timer until it clicks (this is when it goes into defrost cycle), and then if the defrost circuit is not working, you will not get the 450-600 watts (something in that range) that your defroster draws in current. If it shows dead, then you have to open up the unit where the evaporator coils are (the freezer cold coils) and unplug the 2 electric wires going to the defrost thermostat and check the wires that lead into the stat for continuity. If the coils are frozen or frosted and you quickly make that test before the stat can wrm up, it should have continuity. If not, the defrost stat is what has gone out and that is your problem. They just usually clip onto the cooling coils. Easy changeout, of the difficulty level like replacing a light switch.
If that is not it, then you have to unplug the defrost element and check for 120 volts leading into it. And if it is there, then confirm bad element by doing a continuity test on it with the inlet and outlet elec. wires to it unplugged, and test between each end. You could actually chose to do these tests before or after the defrost stat check, depending on which you think is easiest to check first.
For anyone familiar with doing electrical work, this is a worthwhile DIY job.
[Be cautious with electric current when doing these tests, to determine when you should unplug the fridge first and replug it back in. Also make sure it stays unplugged during continuity tests. Remember that with the fridge plugged in, even if not running at the time, the defrost timer will be letting 120 volts into the defrost circuit. And also, while fridge plugged in, the timer will be advancing, and may suddenly start up the compressor and spin the cooling coil fan. ]
If you have not followed the threads, I have stated several times that my easy way to do it is use this electric meter I plug into the outlet called a Kill-A-Watt meter. They roughly look like the shape of a light timer you plug into an outlet. Then run the fridge for maybe 15 minutes to chill the coils, unless you catch it when it is already running. But even then, to install the meter in the outlet, and replug in the fridge, it is a good ideas to let the fridge sit unplugged for about 10 minutes first before replugging it in, so the pressures inside equalize.
(Another way, if you do not want to get the test meter, is to turn off every breaker in your house, except the fridge breaker, and then go outside and look at the electric meter after you advance defrost timer to click into the defrost mode.)
You can advance the defrost timer by hand if need be.
Then with the meter in the outlet, and fridge plugged into it, and meter set to watts, you rotate the defrost timer until it clicks (this is when it goes into defrost cycle), and then if the defrost circuit is not working, you will not get the 450-600 watts (something in that range) that your defroster draws in current. If it shows dead, then you have to open up the unit where the evaporator coils are (the freezer cold coils) and unplug the 2 electric wires going to the defrost thermostat and check the wires that lead into the stat for continuity. If the coils are frozen or frosted and you quickly make that test before the stat can wrm up, it should have continuity. If not, the defrost stat is what has gone out and that is your problem. They just usually clip onto the cooling coils. Easy changeout, of the difficulty level like replacing a light switch.
If that is not it, then you have to unplug the defrost element and check for 120 volts leading into it. And if it is there, then confirm bad element by doing a continuity test on it with the inlet and outlet elec. wires to it unplugged, and test between each end. You could actually chose to do these tests before or after the defrost stat check, depending on which you think is easiest to check first.
For anyone familiar with doing electrical work, this is a worthwhile DIY job.
[Be cautious with electric current when doing these tests, to determine when you should unplug the fridge first and replug it back in. Also make sure it stays unplugged during continuity tests. Remember that with the fridge plugged in, even if not running at the time, the defrost timer will be letting 120 volts into the defrost circuit. And also, while fridge plugged in, the timer will be advancing, and may suddenly start up the compressor and spin the cooling coil fan. ]