Flooring Tile - removing backer board
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Dumpling
03-03-08, 11:39 AM
Removing tile floors: We removed the old ceramic floor tiles and have backer board left (nailed w/ roof nails) on top of two layers linoleum and two layers of plywood in kitchen. In the hall, the backer board is on a layer of particle board on top of plywood. Husband wants to leave all the backer board and tile on top of it. It has deep trowel marks so I want to remove it. We can't get it up with the glued linoleum so do we just leave the backer board in the kitchen? If we do, then we'll have to leave it in the hall too to keep the floors on the same level. How hard is it to get up the backer board and put down new backer board for the new tile? What is the best method to get it off the particle board? Is it ok to leave the linoleum and if so, how hard is it to get the backerboard off the linoleum? Help please.
HeresJohnny
03-03-08, 06:52 PM
Dumpling
That whole mess has to go. All the cement board, all the vinyl and all the particle board. When you get all that stuff outa there let us know what you have for a subfloor.:)
That whole mess has to go. All the cement board, all the vinyl and all the particle board. When you get all that stuff outa there let us know what you have for a subfloor.:)
Dumpling
03-04-08, 09:18 AM
Due to your advice, I've talked hubby into removing backer board in the hallway. Yeah! :) He agreed partly because I decided to put wood (1/4 inch locking Bruce) in the hallway instead of the planned tile. The hall backer board will all be out today but the thinset under makes it a difficult job. I'll let you know what's under for sure but I already pretty much know as all this is over an unfinished basement. (It is 5/8 plywood under 3/4 particle board used to raise floor level.) Hubby will not agree to remove the backer board in the kitchen and has talked to a local tiler and feels that he can retile right over it. A tile company tiled over the two sheets of plywoood and two layers of linoleum in the kitchen 15 years ago because the linoleum was glued down so thoroughly and they just put thinset and nailed backer board and then set the tile. It stayed with no problems for 15 years. No cracks, no loose tiles. If I had not been remodeling and moving cabinets, it would have stayed for many more years. Hubby has worked so hard removing wall paper in this remodel that I can't ask much more.
Bud Cline
03-04-08, 02:33 PM
So.......Why are you here?:)
I gotta tell ya, if there is partical board under that tile floor you are so impressed with you guys have simply been very very lucky that it has lasted this long.
If that local guy wants to re-tile right over what's there that's fine and that's up to you guys. I would get his full name and address and find out how long he has lived at his current address. If he has lived there less than two minutes I would also get a previous address. In addition I would also write down his vehicle license numbers and keep track of them for a time. You're gonna want to find this guy later.:)
I gotta tell ya, if there is partical board under that tile floor you are so impressed with you guys have simply been very very lucky that it has lasted this long.
If that local guy wants to re-tile right over what's there that's fine and that's up to you guys. I would get his full name and address and find out how long he has lived at his current address. If he has lived there less than two minutes I would also get a previous address. In addition I would also write down his vehicle license numbers and keep track of them for a time. You're gonna want to find this guy later.:)
connie
03-06-08, 06:52 PM
Hi Dumpling,
Saw you here and just wondered what you had decided to do.
I agree with Mr. Cline and HJ, you should get rid of all that other junk.
Mr. Cline is telling you (in his own, not so subtle fashion) that if you want a good tile job, you need to start with a good foundation.
Saw you here and just wondered what you had decided to do.
I agree with Mr. Cline and HJ, you should get rid of all that other junk.
Mr. Cline is telling you (in his own, not so subtle fashion) that if you want a good tile job, you need to start with a good foundation.
Bud Cline
03-06-08, 07:26 PM
Thanks Connie.
If you are looking for a public relations job I don't have any openings right now.:)
I just hate to see good people and their money trying to swim across a dangerous swamp full of alligators when there is a perfectly safe bridge to walk across on.:D
If you are looking for a public relations job I don't have any openings right now.:)
I just hate to see good people and their money trying to swim across a dangerous swamp full of alligators when there is a perfectly safe bridge to walk across on.:D
connie
03-06-08, 07:32 PM
I know. (I know you need 15 characters, too)
Bud Cline
03-06-08, 09:08 PM
Yes you really do!
Dumpling
03-11-08, 05:37 PM
To answer you, the floor job has slowed as we became involved in painting and wall paper removal - steamers are a wonderful invention! The hall floor decision is an Aacer solid wood 3/4" by 3 1/4" wide planks that will be nailed down over only 1/2 plywood which was damaged (holes) by tools used to remove the glued down particle board. The plywood has been repaired with new cut out pieces in several places. The oak planks will be nailed across the floor joists and hopefully be strong.
The kitchen floor will be tiled over the 2 layers of plywood, 2 layers of glued sheet linoleum, and the old thinset stuck and nailed concrete backer board. As suggested, we'll just have to get the home address (and names of first born children, etc.) of the installer. The sub floor appears very thick and strong and I don't think I want to see any more big openings through which I can see the junk in the basement. By the way, the Aacer XL oak floors are beautiful. It's a "green" company that specializes in basketball gym floors. The cabinets will go in tomorrow so maybe we will soon be able to eat and live normally. This will be our first and last ever kitchen remodel.
The kitchen floor will be tiled over the 2 layers of plywood, 2 layers of glued sheet linoleum, and the old thinset stuck and nailed concrete backer board. As suggested, we'll just have to get the home address (and names of first born children, etc.) of the installer. The sub floor appears very thick and strong and I don't think I want to see any more big openings through which I can see the junk in the basement. By the way, the Aacer XL oak floors are beautiful. It's a "green" company that specializes in basketball gym floors. The cabinets will go in tomorrow so maybe we will soon be able to eat and live normally. This will be our first and last ever kitchen remodel.
connie
03-11-08, 05:51 PM
Hi Dumpling,
It's good to leave the floor until last, you don't have to worry about keeping it protected while painting. Glad to hear you're making progress. Post some pictures if you get time. On the DIY homepage there's a section for projects, where you can put before and after pix. (and the kitchen is ALWAYS the hardest to remodel)
It's good to leave the floor until last, you don't have to worry about keeping it protected while painting. Glad to hear you're making progress. Post some pictures if you get time. On the DIY homepage there's a section for projects, where you can put before and after pix. (and the kitchen is ALWAYS the hardest to remodel)