Entertainment Center: TVs, Stereos, VCRs and DVDs - tv will not work with remote

I have a 50" LG flat panel HD TV. Today the cable company remote stopped working to control the TV. I thought maybe batteries, or maybe it lost the manuf. 'LG' code by somebody playing with the buttons. I put a fresh set of batteries in, nothing. I re-programmed the code, nothing. I found the ORIGINAL LG remote.....nothing. I replaced the batteries in the LG remote, ......nothing.

I am convinced that the TV is not detecting the signal from either remote. What do I do???? I already unplugged the TV and waited a while and plugged it back in. I cleaned around the 'eye' on the TV and still it does not work. What do I do now?

ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

Some TVs allow you to disable the IR remote if the TV is to be controlled by the RS-232 (com) port. If you can get to the menu, check to see if that's the problem.

I have no clue what the RS-232 port is, unless it is related to the atomic clock's flux modulator. :rolleyes:

I got it working, but I used an unethical solution.

I first tried to power down the unit by leaving it unplugged overnight and plugging it back in the next day. THAT did not work.:thumbdn:

Then I tried plugging it in and out very fast several times (which could have blown the TV also) and it started working! I could hear the relays clicking on & off while I was doing this. :thumbup:

Oh well, at least the remotes are now working with this unit.:)

! I could hear the relays clicking on & off while I was doing this.
Sounds like you cleaned the contact points on the relay that way.;)

If the TV worked via the front controls, your actions probably caused it to reset to factory defaults.

RS-232 is a standard computer "com" port. Some TVs can be connected to an outboard control so they can be used as part of an integrated system in presentation rooms. In these cases, the TV's remote receiver can be disabled so it won't conflict with the computer controller.

Glad to hear you got it working.

There are so many connections in the back I am NOT familiar with. When my son-in-law came over a few months ago he made some changes to the original hookup that required less fumbling with the remotes than before because I had it hooked up wrong. From that point on it worked ok until this happened.

The front controls DID work, only the remotes did not.

I think Ed Imeduc is on point when he said that the contact points in the relays got cleaned by my doing this. I really do not know. I am just glad that I did not have to bring this huge TV to a shop and get raked on the bill.

Thanks everybody.
Charlie

Oh well! I got the same problem again!

Yes there is a RS-232 port on the back. I tried the same thing a few times but this time I guess it does not work with the remote at all. I tried both the cable remote and the factory remote, both with good batteries and they both do not work.

Any suggestions?

Can you get to the menu and see if the IR has been disabled (or if it's even possible to disable the IR)?

If you have soldering/tech experience you could try changing out the IR receiver.

I have plenty of PCB soldering experience and can also repair PCBs that are partially burnt with jumpers. Have done plenty of that repairing electronic controls. BUT, I know JACK about TVs. I stopped working on them when the stopped using tubes and big heavy HV transformers.:eek:

The menu was accessible from the TV units controls and I did not see an option for disabling the remote.

When you say IR, do you mean infa-red, or something else? Sorry, but TVs are not my forte'. Do I need to change that little receiver thingy on the front of the TV that receives the signal? Or do I need to do something else?

LG 50 inch set.

Does anybody remember the old school 'space command'? Remote control with the little chimes that operated the TV? I guess we have come a long way with remotes.

Thanks in advance for any help anybody can give me.

The next step is to touch up the solder connections on the IR (infrared) receiver. You may get lucky and find a cold solder joint. If not, the part number should be printed on it. A replacement is only a few dollars.

I guess the part is the little 'thingy' in the front of the set that receives the signal from the remote?

I guess it comes out from the BACK of the set and not the front, right?

Am I only taking off the subassembly (PCB or sensor with wire leads) or am I taking off and replacing more than this?

Of course when I take off 'whatever' I will check for cold solder joints with a 'loop' and repair them first before I hunt around for a replacement.

All you're looking for is the receiver. It's probably an IC package, but it could be a simple IR phototransistor.

You may be able to get access to it if you can remove the front panel.

If you haven't worked on TVs before, the usual caveat applies: The circuits can hold high-voltage charges long after the TV is unplugged from the wall. Please be careful! (One hand in the pocket, never span fingers across parts, etc. )

I usually feel more comfortable working on the TV while it is plugged in and have one foot in a bucket of salt water while I stick both wet hands inside feeling for the right part (JUST KIDDING!).

I just don't see how the front panel could come off. This weekend maybe between jobs, I can pull off the back panel and see if I can get to it. Like I said, things look alot different today. Everything is so compacted together and there seems to be very little room, even though the TVs are 3X bigger than any I ever had when I was younger.

If I get access toward the front from the rear, I will try to get the assembly off.

Also, they don't use those little glass things anymore, oh yes, tubes!

6JU6, 12BE3, 12QX4, hehehehe, been a while!

IC? =integrated circuit? Old school lingo=PCB=printed circuit board?

I usually feel more comfortable working on the TV while it is plugged in and have one foot in a bucket of salt water while I stick both wet hands inside feeling for the right part (JUST KIDDING!).
For the salt water, I use calcium chloride instead of sodium chloride. It's a better conductor. And take your shoes off. :)


IC? =integrated circuit? Old school lingo=PCB=printed circuit board?
PCB is still a valid term. ICs are usually mounted to PCBs.

Also, ask most guitar players (including me) and they'll tell you that nothing sounds like an all-tube amp.

Good luck with your project. Let us know what you find.