Bamboo and Exotic Wood Floors - Do I need to level this floor??
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acandk
02-04-08, 06:23 PM
Looking for opinions:
I recently purchased a home in which the original garage is now enclosed. Finishing this 22 x 22 would add a nice amount of living space to the home.
The garage floor is a concrete slab with some small cracks. The slab slopes to what is now a plugged drain area in the middle of the slab. My estimate is that the center of the slab is about 1-2 inches lower vs the edge of the concrete area.
To me, this is a small slope...but I plan to build interior walls within this area and may either carpet or lay wood flooring on this slab.
Should I be concerned with leveling this concrete slab? If so, what product should I use and what cost can I expect if I contract out this work?
I recently purchased a home in which the original garage is now enclosed. Finishing this 22 x 22 would add a nice amount of living space to the home.
The garage floor is a concrete slab with some small cracks. The slab slopes to what is now a plugged drain area in the middle of the slab. My estimate is that the center of the slab is about 1-2 inches lower vs the edge of the concrete area.
To me, this is a small slope...but I plan to build interior walls within this area and may either carpet or lay wood flooring on this slab.
Should I be concerned with leveling this concrete slab? If so, what product should I use and what cost can I expect if I contract out this work?
Kobuchi
03-04-08, 03:28 AM
I did a similar garage floor as follows:
(I had a center floor drain and decided to keep that.)
1) Scrape off blips & degrease floor. Prime with latex bonding agent.
2) Find heights (to 1/8" accuracy).
3) Jam sawn-off coffee can into drain, to level with floor perimeter.
4) Pour mortar in one section, radiating from floor drain.
5a) Set 12' straightedge with one end near wall, one end on coffeecan. Flatten mortar.
5b) Repeat all around.
6) Cut radiating channels in mortar when half cured - in case of flood.
7a) Screed down light application of "self-leveling" compound, east-west, with 4' straightedge.
7b) Repeat north-south.
8) Clean up channels, remove coffee can.
I had a pretty flat floor at this point.
9) Cover with tongue & groove subfloor panels (the ones with eggcarton bottoms).
10) Finish with any flooring.
Why I used mortar then skinned that with leveling compound. Because mortar's much much cheaper, and fine for bulking up a fill. The smoothing coat of leveling compound gives the best surface, at a price.
This was not a "dwelling" so a drain possibly connected to the storm system wasn't a health issue, though such a drain in your case might violate code... I dunno.
(I had a center floor drain and decided to keep that.)
1) Scrape off blips & degrease floor. Prime with latex bonding agent.
2) Find heights (to 1/8" accuracy).
3) Jam sawn-off coffee can into drain, to level with floor perimeter.
4) Pour mortar in one section, radiating from floor drain.
5a) Set 12' straightedge with one end near wall, one end on coffeecan. Flatten mortar.
5b) Repeat all around.
6) Cut radiating channels in mortar when half cured - in case of flood.
7a) Screed down light application of "self-leveling" compound, east-west, with 4' straightedge.
7b) Repeat north-south.
8) Clean up channels, remove coffee can.
I had a pretty flat floor at this point.
9) Cover with tongue & groove subfloor panels (the ones with eggcarton bottoms).
10) Finish with any flooring.
Why I used mortar then skinned that with leveling compound. Because mortar's much much cheaper, and fine for bulking up a fill. The smoothing coat of leveling compound gives the best surface, at a price.
This was not a "dwelling" so a drain possibly connected to the storm system wasn't a health issue, though such a drain in your case might violate code... I dunno.