Designing Kitchens and Bathrooms - Laminate backslash removed but adhesive remains
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overworked
02-02-08, 11:32 AM
I have removed a laminate backsplash in my kitchen in preparation for countertop replacement and a new tile backsplash installation. I want to install a tile backsplash to the existing drywall but it has a lot of adhesive residue from the previous laminate backerboard install. Is it safe to sand the adhesive smooth and will the thinnset adhere properly for the tile install?
Thanks,
Thanks,
chandler
02-02-08, 02:29 PM
Welcome to the forums! It would be best if you could get the adhesive off before trying to install the new pieces. You have a space taker, now in the adhesive, and the thinset will just be more, so scraping, sanding, or even cutting it out, then skimcoating the sheetrock will be best.
overworked
02-02-08, 06:41 PM
Larry, that sounds like good advice. The adhesive is not built up much but I will sand it as best possible and then skim coat it.
Thanks,
Overworked
Thanks,
Overworked
Bud Cline
02-02-08, 10:13 PM
HOLD ON!!!
A skimcoat means gypsum joint compound or gypsum topping mix.:wall:
I would suggest you use a rapid setting compound like a 45 minute product. It will dry much harder and be more compatible with your tile adhesive. Most tile adhesives don't like gypsum. In fact if this was a floor the gypsum products would be forbidden in the recipe.:)
The truth is...it would be much better to remove the wallboard to the studs and start over. This way the compound would be restricted to just the area of the joints and the paper face would be receiving the tile adhesive in most areas.:)
A skimcoat means gypsum joint compound or gypsum topping mix.:wall:
I would suggest you use a rapid setting compound like a 45 minute product. It will dry much harder and be more compatible with your tile adhesive. Most tile adhesives don't like gypsum. In fact if this was a floor the gypsum products would be forbidden in the recipe.:)
The truth is...it would be much better to remove the wallboard to the studs and start over. This way the compound would be restricted to just the area of the joints and the paper face would be receiving the tile adhesive in most areas.:)
chandler
02-03-08, 07:48 AM
I failed to mention the 45 minute stuff in my post, but it is a good idea, but in as small a space as a backsplash if the skimcoat is hard enough, he shouldn't have to go to the trouble of removing the wall. I know you and I would do it on a remodel, and perhalps use cbu instead of sheetrock when we went back, but for a DIY situation, IMO even if the area was primed and painted the adhesive would work without the added demo.
bigshri1
02-03-08, 12:59 PM
based on what is being done and the fact that the area to receive tile will not have any real load on it id the tile is 12" or larger why not scrape the loose mastic from the previous
install and just use a white multi purpose thinset?? I know you pros are thinking that the ctca would not approve but all of us have done somthing like it on a job or two and never had a call back.
install and just use a white multi purpose thinset?? I know you pros are thinking that the ctca would not approve but all of us have done somthing like it on a job or two and never had a call back.
Bud Cline
02-03-08, 01:01 PM
If a rapid setting gypsum product is not used I would rather see the wall painted than see the tile go up onto raw joint compound.:)
scarywoody
02-03-08, 06:50 PM
I had the same issue with my kitchen backsplash. I was able to use a putty knife to peel the adhesive off by removing a small amount of the drywall paper. Once this is done make sure you have remove any loose paper and you should be good to go.
overworked
02-10-08, 07:54 PM
All excellent considerations! I will research the gypsum issue as I have a bit of time but sounds the the 45 minute quickset material is the ticket for me.