Gas and Oil Home Heating Furnaces - Fuel pump failures

From the records at a house we bought, the 3450rpm Suntec fuel pump on our furnace was replaced twice in the past 3 years. Recently it seized up (a rebuilt one) and I put a new one on this time. The screen on the old one looked pretty clean (looking in through the inlet). It is a two-line system, and it was serviced fairly regularly so I imagine the filter was kept changed. The lines go from the tank up to the ceiling, along the ceiling about 10', and then back down to the furnace. I thought that may be one reason they used two lines.

Would anyone know what might cause repeat pump failures, if not simply poor-quality rebuilt units? Thank you.

Also, is $150 the going rate for a pump (plus labor)? I see these pumps sell for about $45 most places and list price is about $78.

I presume this pump to be a Suntec A2VA-7116? If so, $150 plus labor is outrageous. I could see that as an installed price.

It is very rare to see a pump failure rate like you seem to be having unless there is water or rust in the fuel system or the pump is pulling a very high vacuum.

I suggest you do away with the return line & install a Tiger Loop. There should also be a good filtration system installed ahead of the Tiger Loop. This filtration system should consist of a pre-filter (General 1A-25A or similar) followed by a 10µ spin on with a vacuum gauge.

An 'A' style pump is in the order of about $75 retail new, substantially less rebuilt.

A 'B' style pump (2 stage) is in the order of about $130 retail, not easily available rebuilt, but about $85 rebuilt.
IF you have a 'B' pump, the price you were charged for the part is correct.

These are RETAIL prices where I am in NY and I have seen them vary by as much as 25%. Return of the old pump in rebuildable condition is required.

I have seen many posts on this forum where the company DID charge $150 for a new pump
(+ labor) but most do not specify the type of pump that was put in.

You should be using a 'B' pump for the application you are describing which is designed for higher vacuum than an 'A' pump and would be better able to 'pull' the fuel over the ceiling, especially while priming.

I would imagine that the return line is routed the same way as the main line. Any serious back pressure on the return line such as a bend or kink in the line, would also shorten the life of the pump.

The new school of thought is to use a one line system with a good filter unit, or in some cases, a double filtration unit.

RECOMMENDATIONS:

I would change to a one line system and also see if the line could somehow be re-routed to a more level configuration, even if you need to chop out some concrete.

Grady mentioned the 'Tiger Loop' system. The 'Tiger Loop' system is a good popular system. Parts are easily available too! I would definitely go with that.

Yes it is an A2VA-7116, which I've seen retail for $45-$75. It seemed highly unusual for something to cost more than list price, but I guess people charge what they think they can get away with at times. This makes DIY'rs out of us :D This board is such an education, thank you guys! Hope I can help someone else someday too.

I read somewhere that the two-pipe system can improve filtration because there is a higher flow through the filter continuously. So the filter might need changed more often, but it is keeping the oil cleaner. This install has existed 17 years, I'm going to ask the previous owner if the problem just started in the past few years.

To see if there is water causing pump failures, I ordered water-detecting paste and it will be in on Monday.

I presume the tiger loops can remove air from oil, but not water or dirt?

A direct routing of these lines would put a line across the floor, in a walk-through area. That is why they go up and then back down.


I presume this pump to be a Suntec A2VA-7116? If so, $150 plus labor is outrageous. I could see that as an installed price.

Personally, I would still switch to a one line system and add the Tiger Loop. If the floor is concrete you can just cut a 1inch deep groove in it for the line & cover it up with Sakrete cement mix, and it will be like it never even happened.:cool:

Your filter is filtering oil that is just going back into the tank and shortening the life of you oil filter with your 2 line system.:thumbdn:

If the tank has been treaded with any kind of fuel additive, water may not show up with water detecting paste.

If you use a Tiger Loop there will be far less flow thru the filter(s) thus allowing them more time to do thier job. The slower you put any material thru any kind of filter, the better job the filter does.

The easiest way to check for possible water damage to the pump is to remove the pump cover, screen, & gasket. Look for evidence of rust. If any rust is found you have had water.

This is an inside tank, so it shouldn't have had any additives such as anti-gels. I did have the pump apart but didn't notice any rust. The ring-shaped gear around the outside seemed to be what had seized, it wouldn't turn. The shaft and gear on the other half would turn, once separated from that ring gear. The replacement "remanufactured" Sit Harvey pump I got feels rough in certain spots when I turn it. Maybe they're not good from the start. I didn't plan to use it, just the screen out of it.

Is any certain filter type best? I've seen both the gear-shaped white ones and the bulb-shaped gray ones.


The easiest way to check for possible water damage to the pump is to remove the pump cover, screen, & gasket. Look for evidence of rust. If any rust is found you have had water.

Either the wool felt or the polyester "gear tooth" filter works well as a pre-filter but should be followed by a 10 micron spin on. The filter should be installed as close to the burner as possible.