Doors and Windows - windows to french doors in metal framed house

I found an original set of french doors that match the 50s era of my house down to having the same copper and brass door knobs.

The house has exterior metal framing instead of wood. I want to replace a pair of double hung wood sash windows with the french doors.

Has anyone dealt with exterior metal framing? Can it be altered, replaced with wood, replaced with a new metal door opening, can it be cut without affecting the rest of the framing???

I'm a pretty handy lady and I've never created a rough opening or dealt with metal framing. I have installed prehung doors in existing openings and doors in existing doorways.

The windows are 60.5" wide and 84" (7' ) form the floor to the top of the window...not the trim.
The two doors have different widths and both are hinged, 30 5/8" and 29 1/8" = 59.5" wide, by 79" (6' 7") tall. 5" shorter than the windows.

There are some other issues, like electric wires under the baseboard, a heater vent below the windows and exterior cedar shake.

I think the metal framing needs to be addressed first though.

Thanks for any and all assistance, thoughts, sources for info, etc. :-)

Joyce (sagoKC)

if the doors are 1 inch smaller than the windows and several inches shorter there should not be a problem. it will require an added header at the top, but it won't be structural since you will not be removing the existing header or jacks. sounds like you need to remove what is under the windows, relocate the plug/vent and install the doors. of course there will be floor issues to face. i just did that(only not french doors) and it looks like it was always there.:D :thumbup:

Not sure where you are, but those doors likely have the energy efficiency of an open window in winter. Unless you are ready to spend a lot of money making them more energy efficient, I would reconsider.
That said, not sure what you mean by 'exterior metal framing'. Is the house framed with metal studs instead of wood?? No matter, if the doors are larger than the window opening, you will need to expand the opening, which involes installing a new header above the opening. That can be done in wood or metal. If the opening needed for the doors is the same or smaller than the windows, things are much easier. The only considerations are what is in the wall under the windows, electric, heat/cooling???

:gmorning:
just bill is right about the energy situation, but i figured you would know that! i used a really good storm door on my application(single door) and it is great. they do make great insulated french doors that have the 50's look. if you haven't bought the doors, you might think about that!:)

Mike Tn- "if the doors are 1 inch smaller than the windows and several inches shorter there should not be a problem...."

Thanks for the input Mike. The doors are 1/2" narrower than the windows as installed, not including the trim. There may be more space on either side once the windows are out and I won't know until I do it.

Somewhere I read you need the opening to be 2" wider than the doors to allow for the door jamb and framing. Is this incorrect?

"...they do make great insulated french doors that have the 50's look. if you haven't bought the doors, you might think about that!:)"

I bought the doors as salvage from someone else's renovation. They've been sitting in the basement waiting for me to get to it for over a year. LOL As soon as I finish the t&g cedar double swinging barn doors for the shop, with hand forged strap hinges from 1767 I found on ebay... tooo cool!! :-) I'll start on the french door project.

Thanks for the input. Nice to know you folks are looking out for me. I'm looking forward to being able to doing the same. :)
Joyce (sagokc)

[quote=Just Bill;1304527]Not sure where you are, but those doors likely have the energy efficiency of an open window in winter.

I'm in Kansas City, Missouri. The doors are solid wood and thick enough to replace the glass with double pane windows and new, thinner moldings around the windows. there are 8 windows in each door. So there is more work and less risk of dropping the glass in replacing them. :)

...you mean by 'exterior metal framing'. Is the house framed with metal studs instead of wood?? ...

Yes and no I''ve checked the wall with a stud finder and only get a reaction close to the windows and exterior doors. As an experiment, starting at a corner I put nails in an outside wall every 16" and hit nothing, except in the very corner and the nail bent. This is why I'm concerned cutting the metal framing from around the windows may compromise the integrity of the metal framing system. I've been to the county and they don't have a full set of blue prints for the house, so I'm in the dark until I take out the windows.
As for the width of the doors, see my response to Mike. Below the windows, in the wall, is a heater vent. Running under the quarter round of the baseboard are electrical wire going to two outlets. The wire will need to be put in a conduit an place further under the hard wood floor, rerouted from the basement, which would be a pain as half the MBr is over a crawl space, or routed up and over the door opening. The vent is fully visible from the basement and can be shortened and moved to the wall to the right of the windows. Easier said than done, eh?

Thanks for the input. I appreciate it!! :)
Joyce

[quote=Just Bill;1304527]Not sure where you are, but those doors likely have the energy efficiency of an open window in winter.

I'm in Kansas City, Missouri. The doors are solid wood and thick enough to replace the glass with double pane windows and new, thinner moldings around the windows. there are 8 windows in each door. So there is more work and less risk of dropping the glass in replacing them. :)

...you mean by 'exterior metal framing'. Is the house framed with metal studs instead of wood?? ...

Yes and no I''ve checked the wall with a stud finder and only get a reaction close to the windows and exterior doors. As an experiment, starting at a corner I put nails in an outside wall every 16" and hit nothing, except in the very corner and the nail bent. This is why I'm concerned cutting the metal framing from around the windows may compromise the integrity of the metal framing system. I've been to the county and they don't have a full set of blue prints for the house, so I'm in the dark until I take out the windows.
As for the width of the doors, see my response to Mike. Below the windows, in the wall, is a heater vent. Running under the quarter round of the baseboard are electrical wire going to two outlets. The wire will need to be put in a conduit an place further under the hard wood floor, rerouted from the basement, which would be a pain as half the MBr is over a crawl space, or routed up and over the door opening. The vent is fully visible from the basement and can be shortened and moved to the wall to the right of the windows. Easier said than done, eh?

Thanks for the input. I appreciate it!! :)
Joyce

i don't know why an electrical wire to a recpt. would be UNDER quarter round? if you can move the heat vent to one side, then why not move the electrical with it? keep them in the same proximity to each other(if that is an issue!)

i have never seen metal studs on the outside of a HOUSE. offices, maybe. the window already has a structual header so adding additional header material is no problem. 2 inches is recomended clearance for doors and windows for getting the unit(door or window) level and plumb. one inch is enough if the hole is square and plumb. there needs to be enough strength on BOTH sides for the doors to hang on. that may require more clearance. take the trim off the window and see what kind of structure you are dealing with then you can see how to proceed. keep us posted! good luck.