Gas and Oil Home Heating Furnaces - Suntec A2VA7116 Oil Pump "growl & whish"

My oil pump (Suntec A2VA7116) and input oil line to the bottom of the Beckett AFG Oil Burner has been making noises..."shwishing" and "growling" as the burner is pulling oil through the line. I can feel the rumbling all along the line back to the tank while holding the copper line.

I have a Roth oil tank on the other side of the room. So the copper lines go up to the ceiling, across the room, down the wall and enter the bottom of the burner housing.

The burner was also bucking and shutting down, requiring me to reset until I could get an HVAC tech. He said he bled the line thinking it could have been air. He left saying if it continues, the bearing in the oil pump may be bad and he will gladly return to replace it. The pump will cost me $150 plus labor.

The burner is no longer bucking and shutting down, but the loud noises continue every time the burner turns on.

So, I've done some reading here and others seem to have replaced their pump or filter, for the same symptoms.

I see online that I can purchase the replacement Suntec pump for about $45.00. I am very handy and read and evaluate specs. for my work. My system is out of warrantee now, so is this something I can tackle on my own? Or do I need special tools to replace the Suntec pump?

My grandmother could replace the pump on a one-line system. It is pretty easy.

TURN OFF THE BOILER SWITCH!

Turn off the oil valve at the tank.

Take off the oil line at the input side of the pump.

Take off the 2 mounting screws on the 'ears' of the pump.

PULL OUT the pump.

Switch all the plumbing over. DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE!

Use regular pipe dope, Blue-Block, or something similar.

:alarm: IF you have a 2 line system READ the directions for installing the by-pass screw on the return port with an allen wrench. DO NOT INSTALL on a 1 line system!:alarm:

Pull out the coupling and examine. Replace if required.

Replace everything as it came off.

OPTIONAL: Now is a good time to bleed the oil line to the canister filter if you have a 2nd person around to operate the tank valve. Take apart the canister filter by loosening the top bolt and placing a pot underneath. Open the tank valve and let it bleed out about a quart of oil from the TOP part of the filter. Turn off the valve.

Change your canister refill and bleed the line BEFORE connecting to new pump. (You need a 2nd person to operate the valve at the tank while you are bleeding the line)

Bleed the pump and give it a whirl!

This BTW may not be your problem, but for the money invested in YOU buying the pump and 1 hour work, I think it is worth it.

Charlie:coffee:

Your lines could be full of "muck" restricting the flow. You can blow them out with a bicycle pump adapted to fit the flare fittings. Has anyone cleaned or replaced the screen in the pump? This is one of the most neglected parts of the fuel system. After cleaning out the lines & making sure the pump screen & filter are clean, I suggest abandoning the return line & installing a Tiger Loop instead. If you are not familiar with the Tiger Loop, here's a link to some info.

http://www.westwoodproducts.com/latest_news_tigerloop.htm

Thank you very much! Now I feel well prepared. Yes I have a 2 line system with return because the line from the Roth goes up and across the room to the Energy Kinetics System 2000. I look into that loop suggestion. Thanks again!.