Bricks, Masonry, Asphalt and Concrete - Patio/Sidewalk Repair

:wall: My patio and sidewalks were poorly done but they are intact. The surface is uneven and rough on the sidewalks and the patio is rough.

I had the patio resurfaced but much of the new surface is flaking and peeling.

I really cannot afford to redo the concrete and being disabled I cannot do it myself.

I see a lot of resurfacers on the market. A couple of these basically require only a squeegy (sp??). I like that idea and could possibly do that myself over time.

I would like to know if that is a viable solution, how thick can I go (up to 1" I hope), how durable is this type of repair, and most importantly, which is the best product?

If this type of resurfacing is not viable, any other suggestions, other than digging up and replacing concrete, how can I solve my problem?

Thanks

If the surface is just uneven (ie, one end has sunk), then mud-jacking the sunken part can help. You'll need a contractor for this, and it's cheaper than remove/replacing the concrete.

If it's a case where the surface is just pitted or spalled, then resurfacing can work. However, the most important part is in the preparation. Whomever does the work, you need to ensure that they completely clean the surface, and will probably want to acid-wash it after the normal dirt, loose chips, etc, are cleaned. Then a bonding agent, then the resurfacing compound.

I've done this using a mix of pure portland and silica sand (I only used that because I had it around--masonry sand would be the next choice, then 'normal' torpedo sand). I prefer the sand to be uniform size--with torpedo sand you get a lot of stuff that could almost be called pebbles.

Normally a patio will be broom-finished, so the acid-wash might not be as necessary, but full cleaning and a good bonding agent (found at home-depot or most dyi stores) is important.
--Jim

sound incl the base, you can resurface 'em,,, we use polymer modified cement mtls that're proprietary but you can but the same from any const supply house.

the patio resurfacing failure's, more'n likely, caused by poor prep/installation as most mtls on the mkt have successful track records by now,,, if you can hold onto to a pressure wshr wand & a squeegee, you can do it.

most suitable mtls're extendible by adding 30% ( be weight ) of 3/8" clean stone,,, this yields .67cf rather'n .4cf,,, broome on the 1st ' base ' coat if the surface's pitt'd/spall'd,,, don't place the base coat more'd 1/8" thick,,, let it cure then squeegee on a ' bond ' coat follow'd closely by your top coat,,, wet over wet.

most repair materials develop over 3,500#psi compressive & very good fluxural & tensile strengths,,, if the existing's prepp'd correctly, the repairs'll usually outlast the base conc

think you'll find mud-jacking's more expensive'n resurfacing the existing,,, even if you do level the tips, you'll still need to have an acceptable surface, no ?f the surface is just uneven (ie, one end has sunk), then mud-jacking the sunken part can help. You'll need a contractor for this, and it's cheaper than remove/replacing the concrete.

we use h/d muriatic for our acid-wash diluted 1:8 wtrs,,, we then neutralize the conc w/1 (plain, non-scent'd) ammonia:4wtrs

e for any other answers,,, welcome home, bud.