Apartment and Rental Properties - apartment noise
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jheparts
01-20-08, 04:15 AM
I am asking if anyone has any ideas of providing soudproofing ideas between apartments? Lately I have been getting a lot of complaints between tenants. (Complaints that I haven't had before.) So as I outline my improvement projects I was thinking maybe there are things I could do to buffer noises. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Jen
Thanks,
Jen
Bruce H
01-20-08, 05:17 AM
I have 2 buildings (duplexes) with the same issues. Unfortunately there is nothing that can be done easily and help the sound control significantly. I am a commercial architect and when we design a new building, we build a double stud wall (the 2 walls are separated by about 1/2") that are sheetrocked with 1 layer on the common side and 2 layers on the apartment side and the cavity is insulated. That gives you a pretty good wall. But you can also see how it would be nearly impossible to do that in an existing building without major surgery.
Assuming you have just a single stud wall, here is what I have thought about doing on my units in the past. First, take off enough sheetrock around any receptacles to see if the outlets are back to back with the receptacles for the other unit. If they are, move one of the receptacles over to the opposite stud, get some solid wood blocking between the 2, and patch and tape (1 coat) the repair. You might also want to research how much STC you would gain by blowing insulation into be cavity; normally that type of insulation is for thermal control and I don't know how it would work for sound control.
Next attach resilient furring channels horizontally over the old sheetrock and screw to each stud. Then sheetrock with 5/8" fire rated sheetrock being careful to to use screws that will screw to the resilient channels, but not touch the old sheetrock; 1" should work. Obviously you will have to move/extend any electrical boxes. Tape and sand everything and caulk between the sheetrock and the floor and anywhere else there could be an air leak; air leak = sound leak.
The best thing would be to do this to both sides of the existing wall, but you might do it to one side only and see if 1 side is enough. You would also get some help if you applied new sheetrock directly to the existing, but it would not be nearly as good as with the resilient channels.
Having said all this, in my case I tell prospective tenants that the sound control between units is not the best because of the age of the building and the construction practices at that time. A new building would be much better, but then the rent would be higher too. Basically, you get what you pay for. Good luck!
Here's a link to what they look like http://www.jm.com/insulation/faqs/996.htm . If you decide to try this be sure to buy resilient channels and not just metal furring channels. BIG difference in sound control characteristics. You will probably have to go to a contractor supply store. I have never seen them in any of the Big Box stores.
Assuming you have just a single stud wall, here is what I have thought about doing on my units in the past. First, take off enough sheetrock around any receptacles to see if the outlets are back to back with the receptacles for the other unit. If they are, move one of the receptacles over to the opposite stud, get some solid wood blocking between the 2, and patch and tape (1 coat) the repair. You might also want to research how much STC you would gain by blowing insulation into be cavity; normally that type of insulation is for thermal control and I don't know how it would work for sound control.
Next attach resilient furring channels horizontally over the old sheetrock and screw to each stud. Then sheetrock with 5/8" fire rated sheetrock being careful to to use screws that will screw to the resilient channels, but not touch the old sheetrock; 1" should work. Obviously you will have to move/extend any electrical boxes. Tape and sand everything and caulk between the sheetrock and the floor and anywhere else there could be an air leak; air leak = sound leak.
The best thing would be to do this to both sides of the existing wall, but you might do it to one side only and see if 1 side is enough. You would also get some help if you applied new sheetrock directly to the existing, but it would not be nearly as good as with the resilient channels.
Having said all this, in my case I tell prospective tenants that the sound control between units is not the best because of the age of the building and the construction practices at that time. A new building would be much better, but then the rent would be higher too. Basically, you get what you pay for. Good luck!
Here's a link to what they look like http://www.jm.com/insulation/faqs/996.htm . If you decide to try this be sure to buy resilient channels and not just metal furring channels. BIG difference in sound control characteristics. You will probably have to go to a contractor supply store. I have never seen them in any of the Big Box stores.
mitch17
01-20-08, 08:29 AM
If it wasn't a problem until recently, I think you have either louder or more sensitive tenants (or both) than you used to. I'd attack that angle instead.
jheparts
01-20-08, 05:40 PM
Thank you for the input. I am going to try talking to the tenants first. I will be learning a lot if I have to do what you explained Bruce. It is always a challenge:)
Bruce H
01-21-08, 05:04 AM
Ain't it GREAT being a landlord :rolleyes:
I really look forward to retiring and selling my duplexes.
I really look forward to retiring and selling my duplexes.