Electronic Alarms and Home Security Devices - Napco 2000 series does not want to Arm

Hey guyz,

I discovered I have a home security system: Magnum Alert 2000 series by Napco.
Here are the specs:
-16 zones, only 8 used
-2 smoke detectors
-2 keypad panels
-3 sound detectors

I tried to Arm it by entering the 6 digit code displayed on a sticker inside the main panel and hit the button labeled "on"
but nothing happens! The screen status "Check Trouble" does not change. I hear a beep every time I press a key though. And all the zones are bypassed, I guess this is because the system isn't armed. Is it possible that the previous homeowner changed the password key?

The Keypad displays the following message automaticaly when I turn it on by plugging in the transformer/adapter: "Check Trouble" in large font and "Bypass/sysTBL" in small font to the left of it.

When I click on "Display System TBL" from the function button it gives me a few messages as followed:
-Keypad 02
-Low Batt
-Failure to Comm

I cud fix all of these errors except for "Failure to Comm" since I don't have a service for this system and I don't want the system to call 911. Some security systems are programmed to dial directly to 911 like a friend of mine's but I am not sure about mine and don't wanna find out yet. I dont have a user manual for this system and I can't find it online anywhere. I opened the main panel and it read that the unit comes with a user manual labeled Wl411. No luck with google with that manual.

I am a very tech savy guy and could figure out the wiring diagram and trace wires and fix window or door sensors if they need replacing so that's not a problem.

I was thinking of replacing the unit with something on ebay but most of the systems Ive seen are wireless and I don't like that and the ones that are hardwired only have like 6-8 zones which is too little. I came to a conclusion that my system is state of the art and will try to do everything I can to fix it. It looks very old tho like an early 90's model.

ok so to recap here are my questions again:
1) The system isn't responding to me entering the password key, is it possible that the previous homeowner changed it?

2) Is there a way to reset the password key? Like for instance, taking out the small memory battery inside the control panel?

3) If I fix all the system troubles except for the communication, will the system work with the siren?

4) How do I find out what phone number the system is dialing out to? I hear a pulse dialing sound everytime it tries to dial out. It's pretty loud clicking.

5) IS there any hope for this system? =D Can someone find a user manual for this equipment I have? It states Wl411 is the user manual.

Any help would be apreciated. I can post pictures if u guyz want.

I think I fixed it! I had to go to Set Program.
The only thing I can use your guys' help with is the following:

1) Can You guys find me the user manual for the Magnum Alert 2000 series by Napco? Supposedly my control Panel says its manual Wl411.

2) How does pulse dialing work? is it: 1 pulse = dial 1, 2 pulses = dial 2, 3 pulses = dial 3, and so on? I wanna figure out where this unit is dialing to. When the unit dials it sounds like SOS morse code lol

3) How do I reprogram the unit to dial out a specific number?? Do I need some special equipment for that?

I think all of my questions wud be answered if I can get a hand on that user manual.

Hey guys what is that stuff called that surrounds windows of your home that's electrically conductive to close a circuit? You know, it's sensitive material sortof glued onto your window so if someone breaks it, it will trip the security system? Where can I find that stuff? I need to repair it on a window.

Now all the zones are faulted, I hit Activate Program and some wierd numbers came up that kinda reminded me of I/O IRQ settings in PC windows for hardware.

I know for a fact that some of the zones should not be at fault since they were showing up on the screen as detected a while ago and current is running through the sensors especially at the back and front doors. All the zones turned out to be at fault after I hit "on" on some wierd code in "Activate Program" section. What should I do???


Here is what it says on the display:
AADR = 000 DATA = 3C
There are some "ADDR" with blank Data's. So I guess I have to search the ones with a "Data" variable labeled as something right?

In your blind fumbling around, it looks like you kicked it into program mode.

You are gonna need to run a webserch using the phrase "Napco Magnum Alert 2000 manual". This is a pretty old system and the programming syntax is fairly non-intuitive.

Pulse dial is roughly the number of pulse counts, I don't remember the specifics.

MrRonFL

I tried searching that phrase forever, no luck. Should I take out the small cell battery located on the center of the control panel for like an hour or two? What would do u suppose would happen? Will I also lose the names of the zones? Yea this thing isn't intuitive at all but it's sad since I fixed about 80% of the sensors and now its a program error.:wall:

Lets verify your model. Check the diagram on the inside of the system can and make sure that it is a MA2000. The 2000comes up as an overseas model. Could you have a 1000, 2600, or 3000?

Here are the pics:

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s212/kamrandiaz/101_0910.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s212/kamrandiaz/101_0914.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s212/kamrandiaz/101_0917.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s212/kamrandiaz/101_0920.jpg

Manual Wi411, Magnum 2000 series by Napco

It's a Magnum Alert 2600 (the MA2600 part number on the IC chip label was the inportant one). They used the same basic design for the overseas market with different software.

This was a pretty uncommon model, actually, so expect to pay a nominal fee for the download (bandwith and storage is not free).

Do not remove the lithium battery, that is what maintains the program memory (like the CMOS battery for your computer), this was one of the few made using that type of memory. This is a 12-15 year old design, so don't expect elegance. It was high end for it's era.

Radio shack _may_ still stock the glass break foil tape. That function has been long replaced with either shock sensors or acoustic glass break units.

yea i just saw the 2600 chip
is there a way to incorporate those shock/acoustic glass breakers in my system? I have 3 sound detectors already connected to the system. I guess it breaks the circuit everytime the device hears a certain amount of decibels. They might be shock sensors I guess. The LED's on them turn green to red everytime it hears something.

I used tiny strips of aluminum foil and heated glue to fix some of that damaged window metal strips. I'll check radio shack tomorrow.

I got a feeling the system was rather upgraded since in the mid 80s they didnt have some things we have today; I got a wireless receiver and transmitter on this thing.

Do you think I can add new devices to this unit because I realized the way this system searches for a security breech (like most systems) is if it senses an open circuit on a zone. I'm pretty sure I can add some wireless devices on this? I do see a wireless receiver on this thing for a zone. here's some pics:

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s212/kamrandiaz/101_0946.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s212/kamrandiaz/101_0943.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s212/kamrandiaz/101_0933.jpg

at first I thought it was a wireless dial out device but it's not.

The "sound detectors" are probably acoustic glass break sensors, they are tuned to the sound of breaking glass. Those _may_ be older design PIR or microwave motions (which looked nothing like current designs), or even ultrasonic units (which were very expensive and high end, but that fits with the quality this system would have been in the early 90s)

The shock sensors (or "window bug") replace the foil tape. There is a limit of about 8-10 that can be on a single circuit (their individual resistance adds up). You would simply connect them to the same connection points that the existing tape uses and scrape the tape off.

That receiver is an aftemarket single zone device. Linear still makes transmitters that are compatible with it, but it is an older unit. Basically it has a relay that connects to the zone input of one of the base system's input zones. They were often used for portable panic buttons or for remote arm/disarm. Yes, you probably can setup more transmitters to match the reciever, but a lot depends on what that transmitter was originally doing.

Ok I found a way to get out of Dealer mode 02 to User mode 01. Problem is, it won't let me switch modes because it displays "Priority Trouble" which pretty much means all/priority zones are at fault and I should fix them before switching modes. The sensor check reveals that all but 1 zone is at failure when I go to "sensor activity." If all the sensors are okay but all the zones are at fault, that's kinda strange right?

What can the problem be? Can it be a blown fuse inside the main panel? I think somehow I reset the zones but the saved names of the zones are still there. Or I probably blew a fuse trying to fix the film on the window maybe? I still read a voltage from every zone except one so if a fuse was blown there shouldn't be any current flowing through those sensor terminals right?

Thanks MrRonFL, I'm still reading through the installation manual it helped alot on switching programs.

Sorry I can't give you much on this one. This was a convoluted system when it was new, and there is literally no way to know what settings you may have accidentally changed when you were blindly jumped into dealer programming.

This was a really uncommon system, and it came out during an era when the alarm makers had a lot of competing brands, and they were all larding up their instructions with bafflegab phrases like "priority zone" to mask the fact that most security systems operate on the same basic technology. All the rest is interface and window dressing.

I'll try and figure it out over the weekend. Can't I just reset everything by taking out the lithium battery? I totally figured out how to program the zone names and set master password and exit/entry times etc. That's my last resort (wiping memory) other than buying a new system. It might just be on some wierd mode which ignores zones.

Clearly this system isn't like the plug and plays we have today. I might have to call up Napco or something and see if they can help me out over the phone but I doubt that's gona work...they'll probably try and hound me to get a new system. If all else fails....what is the best system in your opinion? I prefer a mixed wired/wireless system over a totally wireless system. I could install it myself I'm just not good at this vintage programming stuff.

If you pull the battery, core program has to be reloaded using an external PROM programmer (good luck finding one). At this point, anything that has been changed can (theoretically) be fixed from the keypad.

More than likely what was changed was probably the settings for something like the EOL resistor requirement.

To be frank, _I_ wouldn't try to put a lot of time and effort into this control, and I have access to the Napco technical database.

ok removing the battery is out of the question since I won't be able to reprogram the PROM. Those external programmers are probably as old as a computer that runs windows 3.1

I'm gona see this month if I can fix whatever I can from the keypad panel. The manuals are understandable, I just have to work around some of the issues in the manual since a different kind of keypad was installed on my system compared to the manual's keypad instructions.

If anything, I'm gona have to temporarily relocate my keypad into the garage or basement since all the trial and error beeping entries (that I'm making on the keypad) are making my family crazy.

What do you suggest MrRonFL if I can't fix it?
Ebay users occasionally sell brands like a working NAPCO Gemini P800 for about $60 USD. Could I program a fairly new PROM chip (a brand from years 2000-2007)? is there a special PCI card for a computer that I can use to reprogram a fairly new PROM? Or is that equipment just for technicians only?

My suggestion is to replace the system with something current production that will be a lot more DIY and end user friendly.

Something like one of the Concord series panels with a zone expander to accommodate your existing zones won't set you back excessively, and you would get full wireless out of the box on several models.