Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - Toilet flange position

I am about to start tiling a new basement bathroom. The plumber roughed in the pipes for the toilet. The flange that the toilet will bolt into is sticking up a bit from the slab.

Are the tiles supposed to fit under the bottom of the flange, or should the top of the tiles and the top of the flange be level? Or can it be do either way?

Thanks.

He roughed it in that way so that the bottom of the flange is even with the top of the finished floor. That is standard practice. It be nice to try to get either tile under there or something of the thickeness so the underside of the flange has support.

The flange (or other finish floor surface) goes over the tile:

http://www.johnbridge.com/images/mike2/For%20Liberry%20Stuff/Plumbing/Closet%20Flange.jpg

When the flange was roughed in , I was planning on tiling and the plumber plumbed accordingly. Since then, I have decided to have a radiant mat under the tile. Also, I will put own an isolation membrane (Ditra) due to some small cracks in the slab.

In all, I will now be unable to have the tile sit under the flange. What are the drawbacks of having the tile level with or just below the top of the flange?

I've also seen some flange extenders. ANyone have any experience with these? Here's a link:

http://www.quickfixplumbingproducts.com/

Thanks

When the flange was roughed in , I was planning on tiling and the plumber plumbed accordingly. Since then, I have decided to have a radiant mat under the tile. Also, I will put own an isolation membrane (Ditra) due to some small cracks in the slab.

In all, I will now be unable to have the tile sit under the flange. What are the drawbacks of having the tile level with or just below the top of the flange?

I've also seen some flange extenders. ANyone have any experience with these? Here's a link:

http://www.quickfixplumbingproducts.com/

Thanks

They are certainly better than stacking wax rings, but the solution I recommend when I see such problems during home inspections (for example because heat has been installed in the floor too close to the toilet, and the wax ring(s) are melting) when there is no easy access from below the floor and the DWV plumbing is PVC (plastic) is to get a plumber to come out with an internal PVC pipe cutter:

http://www.envirotechonline.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ATL-2290

and extend the pipe/flange to final finish floor height.

Unfortunately (at least from this standpoint) the DWV lines on most older homes here Chicago are cast iron, there are internal cutters for iron DWV pipe:

http://www.plumbingworld.com/overstockedproducts.html

but often no easy way to make the connection once it is cut.

...the DWV plumbing is PVC (plastic) is to get a plumber to come out with an internal PVC pipe cutter:

http://www.envirotechonline.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ATL-2290

and extend the pipe/flange to final finish floor height.


Thanks.

Ideally, this would be done before I finish tiling so I can get the tile under the flange, correct? Or, can I get way with setting the tile around the flange, so if the plumber can be sure the flange is at the ideal height?

Thanks.

Ideally, this would be done before I finish tiling so I can get the tile under the flange, correct? Or, can I get way with setting the tile around the flange, so if the plumber can be sure the flange is at the ideal height?

The trick is, you have to be able to make the cut down far enough to get a coupling, a length of pipe, and then the flange stacked up, and still be right above the finish floor level.

Depending on the floor thickness and the size of the current opening for the pipe, it may be easier to (and in some cases possible only if you) install the coupling - which of course has a larger OD than the pipe, and may be a tight fit - before you thicken the floor and/or reduce the size of the opening while embedding the heating elements and adding the floor covering.

It's often easiest to install a slightly over-length pipe, and then cut it as required to install the flange once the floor is in.

Have the flange on hand though, and make sure that the floor opening is large enough to admit the portion of the flange that sits below the floor surface.

...Depending on the floor thickness and the size of the current opening for the pipe, it may be easier to (and in some cases possible only if you) install the coupling - which of course has a larger OD than the pipe, and may be a tight fit - before you thicken the floor and/or reduce the size of the opening while embedding the heating elements and adding the floor covering.


Thanks.

I thought it might be helpful to include a photo:

http://gaetanol.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set_albumName=album01&id=IMG_5185

As you can see, when I backfilled, I had the concrete go right up to the PVC (I didn't know I should leave a space). So, unless I break the slab, I will not be able to add a coupler.

How would you handle this?

By the way, you were good enough to help me with a post on the Heater Ducting Systems and Air Ventilation forum. Here's the link to that thread. Any guidance you can offer on that issue would be really helpful:

http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=328201

Sorry, no "fix" I know for that other than extension rings.

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One thing I can tell you - you do NOT want a leak at that location - if the metal flange rusts, there is nothing to attach the hold-down bolts to and you then need to drill holes in the slab and epoxy in stainless steel replacements. So don't caulk around the way around the toilet, and if ever you suspect a leak, get on it stat.