Heat Pumps and Electric Heating - Old Coleman HP not turning + red light

Have a 20+ year old Coleman HP (yes I know its time to replace it but I will burn the house down first).
Same year model air handler, and 1995 Honeywell programmable tstat.

This summer I replaced HP fan motor and start/run capacitors to fix the "get-up-and-go-outside-and-spin-the-fan-manually" issue. It's been working spot on since then.

This morning I wake up to 62deg and the red light on the tstat is lit. This used to happen before I replaced those parts I mentioned, but only after the fan would either stop turning, or 5 minutes after not being on at all.

Usually, I would turn it off for 30 minutes, and try to start it again. It would work for awhile, but eventually the fan would stop and the light would come on.

TODAY:
Tried the 30-minute-rest rule, and when restarting (in heat OR cool) the light comes on immediately and no response from the HP. Emergency heat will heat, but after two minutes blows regular air. Either way, the HP never kicks in.

When I get home, I will try R+Y from the tstat and then in the hp if that doesn't work. I don't think there is a reset switch, or I have never seen one.

Unit Description:
HP: Coleman 3018-611 (cylindrical shape, ugly as sin)
AHU: Coleman (unspecified model) has the add-on box for a digital thermostat
TSTAT: Honeywell (CT3611) has a flip down door and day/week/month/season settings



What exactly does this red light mean (its a plastic led extension at the back of the tstat that sticks up a little on the right side)
and why does my heat pump not engage at all? (Not even so much as a hum)

Thanks in advance..

why does my heat pump not engage at all? (Not even so much as a hum)

Do you have 220V to it??? when calling does it have 24V to the contactor??? if you push the contactor in with a stick does it run???? Does the unit have a low or high psi cut out switch in it??? And YES at 20 years get a new one or burn the home

And YES at 20 years get a new one or burn the home

I suppose I had that coming. :wall:

I don't know if it has a pressure switch in it.
It does have 220v
Moving or putting pressure on contactor does nothing.
I will check for 24v when I get home. I know it has 220 at the unit because I can still feel it. (I got clumsy when re-inserting the fuses this morning). :eek:

It does have 220v Moving or putting pressure on contactor does nothing.

If you have 220v there then does the compressor get 220V at that time??? Do you read 220V on the other side of the contactor then?????

Okay, I just got home (with 20 minutes of daylight to spare, I might add.)

I can use a stick and activate the contactor and it works well.

What does this mean?
(I have gone as far as I know to go with troubleshooting, I'm a computer guy... My logic stops at a certain voltage.)

next then is why it dont close . its coil bad ????? need new one???? does it get 24V to close ???? why not????? high or low switch have it off????thats all next.;) ;)

Perhaps I'm now in over my head. The contactor shows 120v on all 4 poles and on the switch. I don't know where the coil is or what it does. (Sorry if I sounded knowledgable in the initial post)

My day just keeps getting brighter. As I was unhooking the old contactor to go buy a new one, I was letting my car warm up only to find the contents of my radiator in my driveway. <-------- separate issue...

OKAY, I got a new contactor, and still I have to press it manually to power on the HP. I checked the voltage wires and I get 24v. This is confusing to me because it doesnt read 24v when I ground my tester, but it reads 24v if I connect the other end of my tester to the X lead on the tstat board. (R at the tstat)

Am I just peeing in the wind or do I need to pay the $125 diagnostic fee for a service person?

(Thx for all the advice btw)

. The contactor shows 120v on all 4 poles and on the switch. Do you get 220V ????? from line to line?????comeing in to the unit. on the two 24V wires at the unit do you get 24V??????