Gas and Oil Home Heating Furnaces - York Diamond 80 problems
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humanoidalien
12-16-07, 12:23 PM
I have a problem with following symptoms:
Blower runs with no heat (constantly does not auto shut off)
Ignitor does not light
Gas does not flow.
Its a 15 year old heater, tapping on the pressure sensor will cause the ignitor to start working then gas will flow and its working fine for a couple of days, then i hvae to tap on the pressure sensor again, eventually im sure tapping will not help so i'd like to replace the faulty part now. At first i thought that pressure switch needs replacing but then i thought that maybe the draft inducer (blower) doesn't produce enough vacum for the pressure switch to work? I'd rather not replace both just the faulty part. Any ideas?
Blower runs with no heat (constantly does not auto shut off)
Ignitor does not light
Gas does not flow.
Its a 15 year old heater, tapping on the pressure sensor will cause the ignitor to start working then gas will flow and its working fine for a couple of days, then i hvae to tap on the pressure sensor again, eventually im sure tapping will not help so i'd like to replace the faulty part now. At first i thought that pressure switch needs replacing but then i thought that maybe the draft inducer (blower) doesn't produce enough vacum for the pressure switch to work? I'd rather not replace both just the faulty part. Any ideas?
ecman51`
12-16-07, 01:26 PM
You could do a leakdown test on the pressure switch and electrical contacts test at same time.
Disconnect furnace wires off of pressure switch.
Set volmeter to ohms.
Connect leads of voltmeter to pressure spade connecter terminals with alligator clips from each lead so you don't have to be so careful touching and holding while you perform this test:
Remove vacuum tube from furnace, that leads to pressure switch but leave the one end connected to pressure switch.
Suck in on vacuum tube, and after the test meter reaches 0 ohms of resistance (total continuity), pinch off the tube at same time and make sure the volmeter does not drop to that of when there is no connection. If that happens, either you have a diapram leak in the pressure switch, meaning it is shot, or you were not pinching off the tube good enough. Try using real flat pliers of some type, and try again til you are certain which it is.
Disconnect furnace wires off of pressure switch.
Set volmeter to ohms.
Connect leads of voltmeter to pressure spade connecter terminals with alligator clips from each lead so you don't have to be so careful touching and holding while you perform this test:
Remove vacuum tube from furnace, that leads to pressure switch but leave the one end connected to pressure switch.
Suck in on vacuum tube, and after the test meter reaches 0 ohms of resistance (total continuity), pinch off the tube at same time and make sure the volmeter does not drop to that of when there is no connection. If that happens, either you have a diapram leak in the pressure switch, meaning it is shot, or you were not pinching off the tube good enough. Try using real flat pliers of some type, and try again til you are certain which it is.
humanoidalien
12-16-07, 08:24 PM
when i created vacum the ohm needle when up and stayed up, i waited for about 10 secs and there was no change so i think its working ok, i retested a couple more times but i only waited 5 secs or so... seemed to work correctly. so is it safe to assume that the blower doesn't create is going out and it doesn't create enough vacum?
daddyjohn
12-17-07, 07:50 AM
The only way to know for sure is to test the vacuum with a manometer. It's possible that there's not enough vacuum or the switch may be worn and marginal. Does the inducer motor seems like it's running at full speed? Can you take the inducer motor assembly out and check the blower wheel?