Walls and Ceilings - Yucky wall seam
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mike77
12-12-07, 11:12 AM
I'm a rookie to the world of home improvement here, so it's only fitting that my "handywork" should show it. I recently put new drywall up in a not-so-well-lit area of my house. After I mudded and sanded, everything appeared to be AOK, so I slapped on a coat of primer. However, now when sunlight hits one of the walls, the seam is very visible and the compound appears uneven. Is there something I can do to even things out, or am I going to have to rip the wall out and try again (really don't want to have to do that since I'm out of drywall). Thanks in advance...
thezster
12-12-07, 12:42 PM
Sanding block/elbow/elbow grease...
those joints should be feathered out as far as you can to make them smooth/invisible when painted. It's amazing how the first coat of paint will reveal the imperfections in a joint coat. I use a 15 inch blade when applying the last coat of compound (total 30 inches along the joint) - which has been thinned to a pancake batter consistency for ease of working. Then, when I sand that coat down, I close my eyes and go by "feel" of my fingers to help determine whether or not it is feathered adaquatly. I want to feel "nothing" across the joint. The key to an invisible joint is to feather out as far as necessary - and to spend the time sanding to ensure no bumps/drips/errors....
Get out the sanding block - and start working that joint a bit more.... no need to tear anything down....
those joints should be feathered out as far as you can to make them smooth/invisible when painted. It's amazing how the first coat of paint will reveal the imperfections in a joint coat. I use a 15 inch blade when applying the last coat of compound (total 30 inches along the joint) - which has been thinned to a pancake batter consistency for ease of working. Then, when I sand that coat down, I close my eyes and go by "feel" of my fingers to help determine whether or not it is feathered adaquatly. I want to feel "nothing" across the joint. The key to an invisible joint is to feather out as far as necessary - and to spend the time sanding to ensure no bumps/drips/errors....
Get out the sanding block - and start working that joint a bit more.... no need to tear anything down....
mike77
12-12-07, 12:51 PM
I might have to step up to a heavier grit block. Can't seem to get through the primer with what I have on hand. Thanks for the reply!
thezster
12-12-07, 01:02 PM
I use 100 - 150 grit on a drywall sander till I get smooth enough to not notice dips/depressions... then a light rub with 220 to remove scratches/scritches before painting...
marksr
12-12-07, 05:26 PM
If there are dips in the j/c, you might be better off using a drywall pole sander. It has a flat surface about the size of a 1/2 sheet of sandpaper. This will prevent any dips that can occur with hand sanding.
Paint is a lot harder to sand than j/c. When feasable I'll apply a new layer of mud and sand it - much easier :D Don't forget to reprime the new joint compound when finished.
Paint is a lot harder to sand than j/c. When feasable I'll apply a new layer of mud and sand it - much easier :D Don't forget to reprime the new joint compound when finished.