Electronic Alarms and Home Security Devices - Placement of cellular dialer and other newbie questions

I've been encouraged by the willingness of forum members to share advice and have decided to attempt installing my new system. My panel (Concord 4), sensors, and wire should arrive tomorrow, and I've ordered a Digicell Uplink dialer that is also on its way. Any help with the following questions would be greatly appreciated.

1. I have read that the cellular dialer needs to be placed at ground level or higher (not in basement). The problem is that there is nowhere on the ground floor that is not subject to a future remodel. I may install both the panel and the dialer in an upstairs closet (running wire to this location should not be a problem). However, I have seen an antennae for the Digicell offered for sale. Does anyone have any experience with this? would it allow me to install the dialer in the basement and run the antennae up a (non-working) flue? I understand that the specifics of coverage, etc., will vary with my location, but any input is appreciated.

2. If I elect to mount the dialer in the upstairs closet, is there any problem with mounting the panel in the basement, assuming I can run a wire between them?

3. I have read references to resistors. I think end-of-line resistors are required if you want to monitor a hardwired fire alarm; is this correct? Are there any other circumstances in which resistors are required? Will the manuals that come with my panel explain this?

I'm sure I'll have additional questions, and thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

You can mount the panel in the basement and then install a cellular dialer upstairs, providing you have a long enough cable. I am not familiar with the uplink device, but if it is like the Telguard units, it may have just a short cord, and would need to be near the panel. If you use the GE GSM module, it connects as a bus device and you can use standard 22/4 to connect to the panel or even to a keypad if need be. The GE GSM module is nice, in the fact that you can mount it in the CAN with the antenna sticking out of the top. This makes for a very clean installation. As far as the resistors, they HAVE to be on the end of line on a fire circuit (across the terminals of the last device). All other hardwired devices SHOULD be protected with EOLR, but many installers either program them without the resistors, or install the resistors in the can. The panel will come with the required resistors and intructions are in the manual for placement.

Good luck with your project.

Thanks kcxj.

How difficult is it to move the panel once it has been wired and programmed? Is it as simple as disconnecting and then reconnecting the wires for my sensors and siren, or will it have to be re-programmed as well? (I purchased the back-up battery for the panel.) The reason I ask is that it may be easier to tinker with/program the panel on the dining room table, and not in the basement; also, depending where I choose to install it, I may have to have an outlet installed. If I can start the programming before having the final location decided, it will be easier, and save some time.

Also, if anyone has any experience using an antennae with a cellular dialer, I am still interested in learning about this option.

You can preprogram the panel. What you described is bench programming. Many of our installers do the same thing, when they are waiting for a customer or if a morning appt cancels and they have nothing to do until their afternnoon installation.

If the unit support an external antennae, typically, you will be running a coax cable from the internal antennae connection, to some point on the exterior of the structure. If you typically have problems with cell reception inside the structure, but not outside, this will often do wonders for the reliability of the cell dialer.

Thanks MrRonFl and kcxj.

In order to do bench testing, do you have to connect and learn in the sensors? If so, will the panel remain programmed if you disconnect the sensors and later reconnect them in the same place? Or is bench programming limited to system info, global settings, comm settings, etc., but not learning in sensors?

Also, I get good cell phone reception inside, but I don't know if my cell (t-mobile) is on the GSM network used by the cellular dialer. I was hoping to get the system layout (location of panel and dialer) resolved before the parts arrive to save time; I fear I may be pressed to finish the install before leaving town for the holidays. However, I suppose I can wait for the dialer to arrive and then test its reception in different parts of the house. One question: will the cellular dialer (an Uplink Digicell Anynet Network Access Module) indicate signal strength prior to activating an account with a monitoring service?

Finally, the Uplink requires its own power source and battery backup, which I do not believe are included. Does anyone know if these have to be ordered from a supplier, or are they generic parts that I might be able to find locally, like at a Radio Shack? (If you can't already tell, this project may be *just* outside my capability; I look forward to installing the sensors and running wire, but setting up the panel, and the electrical tasks....)

You can pre program everything including the sensors. The panel will not lose this data when you power down. As far as the cellular unit, I just don't know anything about the unit you chose. We use Telguard, Alarm-net, and the alarm.com GSM unit. With those devices, the get power from the alarm system and have their own backup battery. Also, must cellular dialers will be GSM.

These units use their their own specific cell connection, but basically use the local carrier networks, they all have varying contracts with the different cell carriers.

You do realize that all of these have to be setup and connected by a _dealer_? None of them have a DIY option that I am aware of.

The uplink anynet unit requires a customer supplied 12v 2a power supply. You must power up the device to use the LED's to test signal strength. From what I can tell, the unit can use GSM or CDMA. It also appears that you would connect this device to the alarm panels bell circuit to activate the cell unit.

http://www.uplink.com/_files/install_AnyNET_030106.pdf



THIS WILL NOT ALLOW FULL ZONE REPORTING! Only general fire and general burglary will be reported and NO duress. I strongly recommend you look into using the GE GSM unit or the Telguard unit. Do you have a Central station that is requiring you to use this device?

I don't like the sound of this.... I was trying to save some money ($100 for the Uplink, versus $200 for the GE module), but may have ended up buying a brick.

I have not yet selected a monitoring service. I wanted to get the system installed and tested, and only then add the dialer and sign up with a monitoring company.

I thought I had read, either on this forum or a different one, that these or similar units could be installed by the diy'er. No? Is it not simply a matter of programming the panel with the correct comm settings, which would be provided by my monitoring company?

With respect to the types of information sent to the monitoring company (the lack of full zone reporting); is the risk of reporting only "Fire" or "Burglary" that I may false more frequently? Since we have four pets, I had not planned to install a motion detector, so it would not be the case that the monitoring station could detect, say, window opened and then motioned detected in hallway. In light of this, are the limitations of the Uplink serious enough to warrant getting the GE module?

Thanks for your all your help. Last night I attempted to install my first sensor. I removed trim from under the window, made a huge mess, and still wasn't able to fish the wire out. It's a masonry house, so drilling down from the sill doesn't get you into a cavity, but rather a brick. So, unless I have better luck tonight, or opt to drop some serious coin on wireless sensors, these parts may be lying around for a while anyway, giving me time to order another dialer.

These units use their their own specific cell connection, but basically use the local carrier networks, they all have varying contracts with the different cell carriers.

You do realize that all of these have to be setup and connected by a _dealer_? None of them have a DIY option that I am aware of.

IIRC, when i was looking into buying the alarm.com GSM module
from safemart.com, I had the option of programming the system
myself. One does need an alarm.com account set up and that
is only something that a dealer can do for you (safemart
would've done this part for me). However, AFAIK,
once you're past that, you can set the rest of the pieces up
yourself. Eventually, I opted to not install the GSM module,
so, I may be totally wrong here as I'm not speaking from
personal experience of having gone this route.

I don't like the sound of this.... I was trying to save some money ($100 for the Uplink, versus $200 for the GE module), but may have ended up buying a brick.

I have not yet selected a monitoring service. I wanted to get the system installed and tested, and only then add the dialer and sign up with a monitoring company.

I thought I had read, either on this forum or a different one, that these or similar units could be installed by the diy'er. No? Is it not simply a matter of programming the panel with the correct comm settings, which would be provided by my monitoring company?

With respect to the types of information sent to the monitoring company (the lack of full zone reporting); is the risk of reporting only "Fire" or "Burglary" that I may false more frequently? Since we have four pets, I had not planned to install a motion detector, so it would not be the case that the monitoring station could detect, say, window opened and then motioned detected in hallway. In light of this, are the limitations of the Uplink serious enough to warrant getting the GE module?

Thanks for your all your help. Last night I attempted to install my first sensor. I removed trim from under the window, made a huge mess, and still wasn't able to fish the wire out. It's a masonry house, so drilling down from the sill doesn't get you into a cavity, but rather a brick. So, unless I have better luck tonight, or opt to drop some serious coin on wireless sensors, these parts may be lying around for a while anyway, giving me time to order another dialer.

Yes, it's $100 more, BUT you get the added benefits of a website to arm/disarm, check system events (like every time a door, window, motion etc is tripped it will be logged), schedule arm, disarm, add user codes, set up emailing, text messaging, voice messaging, etc. etc....

Thanks teerex; I haven't decided whether or not to keep the Uplink, but if I do, I'll ask Safemart (or maybe nextalarm) if they can act as the dealer for me in terms of setting up an account.

I got my panel, keypad, and four sensors installed on Saturday, and would like to add a siren.

I have purchased the following siren for use with my GE Concord 4 panel:

Ademco 748 Dual-Tone Siren – 748
* Operating Voltage: 6-14 VDC
* Current Draw: 1200mA @ 12 VDC
* Speaker: 8 ohms, 25W peak
* Sound Pressure: Warble/steady 119dB min. @ 12VDC (at 1 meter)
* Tamper Switch: Normally closed when mounted (opens on alarm)

The GE install manual only gives instructions for GE brand products, and I can’t tell if this is equivalent to a supported siren. I am concerned because it appears to require more juice than many of the other sirens/signals (something I guess I could have investigated before ordering, but I wanted something LOUD). Would appreciate answers to the following:

1. Will it work with my panel without a relay?
2. Can I use 22/4 wire?
3. How should it be wired in?

Thanks

You may need a power supply. part # 600-2019 or a siren that draws less power.

1.) Siren will work without a relay. The concord has a built in siren driver.
2.)I would use 18/2 for the siren. Some may say you could "double up" the 22/4
3.)Wire the siren: red to OUT1 (terminal 9) black to GROUND (terminal 13) Max 1,000ma:mad:

Thanks kcxj. Is a power supply required for it to work since it draws more than 1 amp? Or will it work, but just not be as loud? Or do I risk damaging the panel if I connect it without a power supply?

It probally would work, however it may cause some problems. For example, in alarm, it may cause the keypads to dim, or worse yet, not work.

In general, if you overload the 12v output on most modern panels, the PTC protection circuit (solid state "circuit breaker") will shut the whole shooting match down.

Output 1 on a Concord 4 is rated at 1000ma (1 amp), and the listed draw of most devices is their peak draw. The worst that will happen is that the system will shut itself down under the load, and you will need to add a power supply and relay to support the siren load you want.