Kitchen Gas Appliances - Whirlpool Gas Dryer Turns On-ShutsOff

This is Model#LGR3624EQ0 gas dryer manufactured at least in 99 or older. I couldn't find the manufacturer date.

I really appreciate all the help given on this site. I didn't know anything about dryers before I came here.

It just started doing this so I took off the front and observed the glow, then the pilot light come on and then the main opens up. Huge blue flame shoots into the intake/gas manifold. It stays running for between 30 seconds to sometimes up to 2 minutes and then for no apparent reason, cuts off. The tumbler keeps tumbling but no heat and it doesn't turn back on unless I shut it off and then start it again.

I have checked the vents and interior for lint build up. No problem there. I tested the flame sensor located on top of the gas manifold and it has continuity. I also tested two other sensors on the back of the dryer above the exhaust duct, one black round one with and the other I believe is the fusible link (its white and looks like a short strip), both have two prongs. They both have continuity. I checked another sensor on the outside of the intake/gas manifold on the back of the dryer with 2 prongs. Not sure what it is but it also has continuity.

Only thing I haven't checked is the coils. It's my understanding from reading in this forum that the flame sensor is responsible for keeping track of the several things, one being heat and if it doesn't detect heat, it switches off electricity to the coils so I thought it may be faulty even though it tested good for continuity.

I called around here locally and everyone seems to think that I should replace the coils. They're not giving any reason but give me the impression that if I called them to the house, that's what they would replace first.

I sure would appreciate your opinion on this. Could the coils be at fault even though the igniter sequence is working right? How can I test them? I guess one has 2 prongs and the other has 3.

I really appreciate your assistance..

Hello redeyedog. Welcome to the Gas Appliances topic and the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

Based upon the problem description and all you already checked and have done, I suggest replacing the two solenoid coils. Very common part failure. Least expensive and easy to replace, with a little care and safety in mind.

Brief Overview for replacing solenoids:
The solenoid coils are mounted directly on top of the gas valve. Each has a wire harness assembly with a plastic quick disconnect attached. The coils must be removed and replaced.

There are two solenoids...both are on top of the gas valve. Solenoids also supply voltage to the glow coil and are part of the electrical loop.

All terminals on both solenoids must have continuity. If not, you'll need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first.

To accomplish this task, the entire burner and gas valve must be removed. Then the solenoid coils can be removed from the top of the gas valve and replaced.

The gas inlet pipe to the right side of the gas valve has a tiny on/off gas shutoff valve. Turn it off, lever opposite it's current on position. The nut on the gas supply pipe near the gas valve is counter threaded, which means it turns opposite (clock wise) the norm to loosen it.

There will be other sheet metal screws securing the gas valve and burner assembly to the dryers base. Once the entire gas valve is removed, take it and the make, model and serial numbers of the appliance to the local appliance retail parts store.

Remove both solenoids off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate and replace them both. They are sold only in pairs.

Read Gas Dryer Sticky Note In The Forum Topic For Additional Advice:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159481

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. They will need the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using the reply button keeps or moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically and keeps all communications on this subject in this thread.

Web Site Host, Forums Manager, Moderator Hiring and Promotions Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Thanks for the fast reply! I'm a little confused as to why I would have to remove the entire gas burner assembly. With the front of the dryer off, the gas valve is very close to the from and the first thing I can see are the coils.

I can turn off the gas as you described and then again just beyond the main gas inlet and unplug (elecrical) the unit for safety concerns. But if I can take them off while the burner is still attached to the dryer base, is there any reason not to?

I'm not in front of it now so I'm going by memory but they seemed very easy to access.

Thanks again for your help.

Hello: redeyedog

Did not mean to confuse you. Excuse me if I did. If you can remove the two solenoids without removing the entire gas valve, then do so...:thumbup: That's the best setup there is.

The brief overview pertains to those models with a lower front a burner access door. Some models the entire front panel must be removed. Other models the burner is behind the drum...:wall: with no rear machine access...:thumbdn:

For those whom are not so handy, which does not apply to you granted nor to all members, I may suggest taking the entire gas control valve out and bring it to a local appliance repair and parts store. Thus, different methods and or applications based upon machines and personal abilities.

I checked the old ones for continuity and they tested good but something has to be faulty and everyone seems to point to the solenoid coils.

So I went to the local parts dealer and matched the solenoids with the ones I had using all the information you suggested. They installed quite easily but no change in behavior.

After after about 30 seconds after the main flame kicks in, I hear a click and the flame cuts off. Dryer continues tumbling, no heat.

UPDATE: As an amatuer, I am prone to make assumptions based on logic and not necessarily through the technical knowledge needed for this kind of work. That said, I after originally posting this thread, I did not perform an appropriate test to see if the new coils are really working or not.

To do that, I would need to put the front of the dryer back on and close the door to create the appropriate amount of back pressure and temperature so that those same sensors I tested can properly do their jobs.

So, in the end, it was the solenoid coils. The unit is running and the temperature limiter is cycling the main on and off as necessary to maintain an appropriate temperure in the drum.

I appologize for my original reply here. I want to thank you again for providing this information. Looks like my problems are solved and now know enough to be dangerous with gas dryers!! LOL!!

In what ways would I be able to help this forum without being a skilled gas dryer technician?