Outdoor Power Equipment and Small Engines - Kohler K532 no spark while cranking
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : Kohler K532 no spark while cranking
starchase
12-02-07, 08:21 AM
I have a Bolen H 20 with a Kohler K532 53138 .
I have a spark tester that I put between the coil and the spark plug.I can watch the spark.I get one spark when I start cranking the engine and one when I release the key,but no spark while I am cranking the engine.The engine will start and run just fine(with continuous spark) on the last spark, as I release the key.This is ok except if it isn't stored indoors but it won't start outdoors in cold weather.
Do you have any suggetions as to what it might be?
i
I have a spark tester that I put between the coil and the spark plug.I can watch the spark.I get one spark when I start cranking the engine and one when I release the key,but no spark while I am cranking the engine.The engine will start and run just fine(with continuous spark) on the last spark, as I release the key.This is ok except if it isn't stored indoors but it won't start outdoors in cold weather.
Do you have any suggetions as to what it might be?
i
cheese
12-02-07, 10:05 PM
If I'm getting this right, you're saying that the engine won't start until you release the key, which allows that last spark? If so, then you probably have a problem getting 12 volts to the coil. On the positive side of the coil, there should be 2 wires. One supplies 12 volts during cranking, the other supplies 6 volts through the resistor once you let go of the kay and it's running. This makes for hotter spark during cranking to get it fired up quickly...but then it reduces to 6 volts to keep from burning up the points after it cranks up and you release the key.
It sounds to me like it is getting the 6 volt power when you release the key, but there is a problem with the 12 volt portion. Check the voltage on these wires during the starting process and post back with the results.
It sounds to me like it is getting the 6 volt power when you release the key, but there is a problem with the 12 volt portion. Check the voltage on these wires during the starting process and post back with the results.
starchase
12-06-07, 06:38 PM
Hi again
I have done some more checking and the coil that mine is using (part number is 277375-S)doesn't need the resistor.I do have 12 volts to the coil whenever the key is on.However still I get one spark when I start cranking the engine and one when I release the key,but no spark while I am cranking the engine.Any other sugestions?
Your suggestion
(It sounds to me like it is getting the 6 volt power when you release the key, but there is a problem with the 12 volt portion. Check the voltage on these wires during the starting process and post back with the results)
I have done some more checking and the coil that mine is using (part number is 277375-S)doesn't need the resistor.I do have 12 volts to the coil whenever the key is on.However still I get one spark when I start cranking the engine and one when I release the key,but no spark while I am cranking the engine.Any other sugestions?
Your suggestion
(It sounds to me like it is getting the 6 volt power when you release the key, but there is a problem with the 12 volt portion. Check the voltage on these wires during the starting process and post back with the results)
cheese
12-07-07, 01:04 AM
Ok then, check to see if there is a constant 12 volts to the coil during cranking (not just when the key is on). The spark is generated when the 12 volt magnetic field in the coil collapses. This would happen when the power to the coil is turned off, or when the negative side of the coil is grounded. That's what the points do (ground the negative side of the coil thousands of times per minute to create each needed spark). So in your case, the coil is losing it's field when you turn to crank, and when you release the key from crank. This indicates that there is not a 12 volt supply to the coil in the "crank" position of the switch.
starchase
01-01-08, 01:13 PM
I have checked out the voltage to the coil .The voltage drops to almost nothing while cranking.I have tried a new battery and battery cables still very little voltage to the coil while cranking.If I use an external source to provide 12 volts to the coil while cranking I have great spark from the coil.
The problem must be in the starter is there an easy way to test how much it amperage it is drawing or do I have to remove the starter?
The problem must be in the starter is there an easy way to test how much it amperage it is drawing or do I have to remove the starter?
hopkinsr2
01-01-08, 06:25 PM
I'm thinking you have a problem in you're ignition switch or the wiring @ the starter solenoid. I assume you're starter is cranking fine as the last posts didn't suggest a slow to crank condition. I think Cheese has the answer, You may have a resistor in the system, & there should be a seperate feed of 12 volts when cranking. This may come from the ign switch,or the starter soloniod. Have a closer look & let us know. Roger
starchase
01-26-08, 02:08 PM
I did some more checking and found the trouble to be a faulty ignition switch.I don't know why but it must have an internal fault.I did test the old switch with my ohm meter and there is a definite resistance in it.
I replace it and everything is working fine now.
I replace it and everything is working fine now.
cheese
01-27-08, 08:46 PM
Great! Thanks for the update. I suspected either the switch or the resistor (if it had one).