Painting - Oil based trim paint over latex trim paint?
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ortho_resident
11-25-07, 07:15 PM
I've heard that if you are painting latex over oil, you should sand lighltly before painting the latex over oil.
With oil based trim paint, I am getting conflicting statements:
1) You shouldnt paint with this combo- the latex is "flexible" and the oil based is not. Over time, the "motion" of the underlying latex will result in the oil based paint cracking/etc??
2) Its OK to paint an oil based interior trim pain over a latex paint.
If you had trim in very good condition, no peeling paint, that is latex based, but would look better with a recoat, what would you do?
-Repaint with a latex (like SW pro-clasic)?
-Paint over with Oil based?
Are there any options that DONT require sanding th trim (its smooth, and doesnt really need much prep, except for some corners that need caulking).
thanks!
With oil based trim paint, I am getting conflicting statements:
1) You shouldnt paint with this combo- the latex is "flexible" and the oil based is not. Over time, the "motion" of the underlying latex will result in the oil based paint cracking/etc??
2) Its OK to paint an oil based interior trim pain over a latex paint.
If you had trim in very good condition, no peeling paint, that is latex based, but would look better with a recoat, what would you do?
-Repaint with a latex (like SW pro-clasic)?
-Paint over with Oil based?
Are there any options that DONT require sanding th trim (its smooth, and doesnt really need much prep, except for some corners that need caulking).
thanks!
slickshift
11-26-07, 04:22 AM
The proper way to paint latex over oil is to clean, lightly sand, wipe dust off (tack cloth or swiffer), apply an oil-based primer, lightly sand, paint with latex trim paint (two coats quality waterborne enamel -like SW ProC- would be my suggestion)
1) it might take time for the latex to fall of...it could also simply slide right off after you apply it...it might just crinkle
2) That's not true
Now, in reality it could hold, and it might stay for a while, so it's possible some have got away with it...but as it leaves a worse mess if (more likely when) it fails it's simply not a good idea
The sanding is not sanding off, but merely a scuff sanding
It's not that big of deal...don't go crazy on it
You could use a de'glosser rather than sand, but it's not any easier, and it's messier, and could take longer
1) it might take time for the latex to fall of...it could also simply slide right off after you apply it...it might just crinkle
2) That's not true
Now, in reality it could hold, and it might stay for a while, so it's possible some have got away with it...but as it leaves a worse mess if (more likely when) it fails it's simply not a good idea
The sanding is not sanding off, but merely a scuff sanding
It's not that big of deal...don't go crazy on it
You could use a de'glosser rather than sand, but it's not any easier, and it's messier, and could take longer
marksr
11-26-07, 04:37 AM
Yep, what slick said :cool:
#1 - it is ok to use a latex undercoater and top coat with oil base on new work. It isn't a good idea to apply oil enamel over latex enamel.
#2 - Latex over oil is fine providing you sand and coat with a solvent based primer.
If you currently have latex enamel on the woodwork I'd either recoat with a quality latex enamel of use a waterborne enamel.
#1 - it is ok to use a latex undercoater and top coat with oil base on new work. It isn't a good idea to apply oil enamel over latex enamel.
#2 - Latex over oil is fine providing you sand and coat with a solvent based primer.
If you currently have latex enamel on the woodwork I'd either recoat with a quality latex enamel of use a waterborne enamel.
sirwired
11-26-07, 05:21 AM
There is no reason to put oil on top of that latex. Re-coat with a quality waterbourne enamel (SW ProClassic or BM Impervo are good choices.)
You will not be able to get around scuff-sanding if you want excellent adhesion. You are running a real risk of eventual paint failure if you just topcoat what you already have, as-is. If the idea of scuff sanding is too tedious, "liquid sandpaper"/de-glosser will work also.
SirWired
You will not be able to get around scuff-sanding if you want excellent adhesion. You are running a real risk of eventual paint failure if you just topcoat what you already have, as-is. If the idea of scuff sanding is too tedious, "liquid sandpaper"/de-glosser will work also.
SirWired
mitch17
11-26-07, 06:24 AM
Why are you wanting to use oil based paint? I'd use latex.
nagra4s
11-26-07, 06:12 PM
If there is latex on the trim now...do not use an oil finish paint. This is why some old houses trim is in such a complete mess. Dibits, very unsmooth surfaces etc. If you want to use oil finish paint. Remove and install fresh trim. I would use Sherwin Williams Superpaint semi gloss. Proclassic on trim looks proffessional. Superpaint will be easier for you to apply and it looks great!