Carpentry and Woodworking - Crown molding questions

hi-
I am going to install some crown molding and have a few questions

- The room measures 11x13. My local home improvement center only has 8' lengths of crown molding. I'm going to check my local lumber yard for some longer lengths, but if 8' is the longest I can get - what is the best location for a scarf joint? Right in the center of the wall, each side being the same length??

- I will be staining and clear-coating the molding, should I do this before I cut and hang, or after?

- considering that I will be staining rather than painting, how do I handle any gaps? Is there any way to handle a gap, or is it entirely unacceptable to have even a slight gap with stained molding?

If 8' is the longest they have, then you are shopping at the wrong place. A large lumberyard will have what you need, and if they don't, they can certainly ORDER it for you, which is what you may need to do in order to get the profile and the lengths you need. (two 12's, three 14's so that you have 1 extra for when you make a mistake. You might even want another extra one to practice with if you're unfamiliar with cutting crown.)

Using short lengths that create joints where joints are not necessary is unacceptable. Standard procedure is to use the longest lengths possible so as to avoid joints. In a room that small, the only joints should be at the corners.

Staining and finishing can be done prior to installing the moulding, but it means you have to be very careful with it as you install it. Nail holes and any gaps can be filled and hidden with a colored nail putty and then one final coat of finish should be applied to the moulding after it is up and the nail holes are filled. It can also be stained and finished in place, although it's not quite as easy (unless you're a professional painter with HVLP equipment to spray in place.)

Although you don't want any gaps, if this is your first time working with crown moulding, you're bound to have some. You want to try to get the joints as close as possible and use the colored nail putty only as a last resort.

Thanks XSleeper!

So, I will visit the lumberyard over the weekend and get the longer lengths or order them if they don't carry them.

As far as the gaps in joints go - I will be as precise as possible, but in the event I need to fill a joint, do you recommend the putty over stainable wood filler?

It is always best to stain and apply poly/sealer before installation! Use colored putty - you may need to buy 2 jars of different colors. You can intermix the colors to get the correct color of putty. 1 color of putty rarely works because of the natural color/grain differences in the wood.

I wouldn't recomend using a 'stainable' filler - they rarely stain to the color you need = putty shows. Ideally you will match the putty color with the wood good enough that you have a hard time finding the nail holes you filled :D

Cutting the moulding a tad too long and 'forcing' it in place will make the joints tighter.

A followup to X.

You can use mineral oil( from your drug store) to make the color putty more pi[liable and easier to mix to achieve the right color.

DO NOT USE LINSEED OIL - it has an amber cast and will screw up the color.

George,

thanks for that little tidbit. I've got all sorts of colored putty in the work van and by fall, it always gets hard after all the hot summer heat. Good to know what to use to make it pliable again. Seems like such a waste to throw out a can that's still 3/4 full.

And if it's too sticky, I've heard some people use corn starch on their fingers, right?

I've always used a drop or two of mineral spirits to rejuevenate putty but then I always seem to have paint thinner handy :D

We used to buy 'whiting' to dry up putty - especially back when we had to make our own colored putty :eek: Basically any powder will work, I've often used drywall sanding dust ;) If it isn't too oily you can roll the putty around in a rag to obsorb some of the excess oil.

Thanks Mark,

I've used paint thinner before as well, but maybe I used too much- sure made the putty goopie and stuck to my fingers something terrible... and then it eventually dried out again- seemed fairly quickly. I have to admit, the last time I had to "resurrect" a jar of putty I used WD-40. Worked ok, but sure was stinky! :o

Of course, the putty I was trying to bring back to life was quite dry. But when you're out working 30 miles from town, you aren't going back to buy a fresh one. :coffee:

I wouldn't be suprised if mineral oil does a better job than mineral spirits - I've just never tried the oil.
It usually only takes a few drops to resurrect the putty. If the the thinner jug has a big enough opening I often just get my putty knife wet and add thinner that way.

There is a fine line between not enough and too much thinner but anything you can do to prevent an unscheduled trip to the store.......... ;)