Glass and Mirrors - Another Bathroom Mirror Question

Hi all,

I have a 48" x 36" bathroom mirror (no frame / beveled edges) I need to install. I read 5 or 6 mirror posts in preparation for this post. I have decided it would be best to use a bottom rail and clips on the top (not enough room to slide it into two rails) and apply some mirror adhesive for good measure. I'd prefer to see no hardware, but I am nervous about using only mirror adhesive. My house is old (1950s) but recently remodeled. As part of the remodeling process the walls had knockdown texture applied before painting. If I were to use only mirror adhesive, I'm thinking I should sand the knockdown texture away so that I am sticking the mirror directly to the drywall. I'm thinking about doing this even with the bottom rail because I am paranoid. I would die if my kids were hurt by this mirror. Am I on the right track? I should be able to walk into Lowes or Home Depot and ask for a 48" mirror rail with clips? Thanks!

If the texture is sound, no need to remove it. If not sure, remove it in the spots where you will put the mastic. If it's going to rest on the backsplash you don't need a bottom J molding. If it's going to be above the backsplash, a J molding screwed to the wall is necessary. The mirror mastic will be enough to hold the mirror. If you are really paranoid, then put 2 clips at the top. You're not going to find the J molding at HD or Lowes, you must go to a local glass shop.

Thanks for the advice. I did find a j-channel / j-molding at Lowe's, but it is for 1/4" instead of 1/8" mirrors. I don't like that this metal covers the beveled edge of the mirror. At my local mini-hardware store, the owner showed me some L shaped clips that have a soft, felt material on the inside. I like these because they do no obstruct the view of the mirror. Do you see any problems using these? I would probably use 4. I can get two in the wall studs and for the other two I'll use those drywall supports that are for placing screws into drywall. Of course, the mirror mastic will still go on the back. I would estimate this mirror at around 25lbs. 48" x 36" x 1/8". Thanks again.

One more questions, lol...I read a couple of place where people used a piece of wood instead of a j-channel. I guess I could get a piece of wood that is 48" x 1/2" x 1/4" and screw it into the wall studs. This way I could paint the wood and even texture it to look like the walls. Wow, I know I'm being picky, but I would like not to see a big metal rail beneath my mirror! Thank's all.

The L clips are fine but 2 is all you need at about 8" from each end. Attach with wall anchors is fine. Remember that the mirror adhesive will be holding the mirror. The wood idea will not look good. The most professional way is to use a
3/4" X 1/4" L molding at the bottom.

Thanks...sorry so long for the reply. I guess a glass and mirror shop is my best bet for the L molding. That will look much better than the j molding due to the beveled edges.

I guess persistence does pay off. I called about 6 or 7 glass & mirror places from the yellow pages before I found one willing to cut the L molding I need. The folks at the shop were very nice and only charged me $8 for the piece. They also threw in a ton of free advice on putting the mirror up. Good stuff.

Sounds like something I would have done when I was in the business. Most of the others wouldn't be bothered with small things. Good luck with your installation.

Well, the mirror is done. I think it went pretty well. I want to share some pictures of my progress to return the favor of all the help I received. Maybe this will help someone else. Unfortunately, I don't seem to be allowed to add attachments here. Instead I will link to the pics. The problem is that is the location of these pics ever changes then you guys will loose them. I really wish I could attach.

Anyway, the people at the mirror shop gave me the l mold with some double stick tape on the inside track. This is to help push the mirror to be flush with the l mold. The l mold was around 5/8" I believe and my mirror is 1/8" at the beveled edges (1/4" thick everywhere else). I ended up adding one more piece of tape to get the mirror exactly flush with the edge of the l mold.

Next, I place tape on the back of the mirror. I used the exact thickness as on the inside track of the l mold but with one added layer of tape. The added layer of the tape is to account for the thickness of the l mold where it sits against the wall. This way the distance from the wall to my mirror will be equal across the entire mirror. I hope this makes sense :) My thinking is that the mirror would be further out at the bottom where it sits on the l mold, and so this tape is to compensate for that. Otherwise, I would be bending the mirror when I pushed it against the wall.

Next, I strategically placed my mirror mastic as instructed. I made sure my globs were much higher than the tape.

Finally, I pushed the mirror against the wall and put two clips on the top and one on each side.

Oh, I also sanded the wall down a bit and then cleaned and dried it before beginning. Maybe this was not necessary, but I felt better doing it.

Anyway, I'm a rookie, but I feel good about the whole thing. Here are the pics and thanks all!

http://warrenmercer.com/pics/remodel/LmoldWithTape.jpg
http://warrenmercer.com/pics/remodel/LmoldWithTapeClose.jpg
http://warrenmercer.com/pics/remodel/MirrorPrep.jpg
http://warrenmercer.com/pics/remodel/MirrorPrepCloseUp.jpg

Two more pics!

http://warrenmercer.com/pics/remodel/MirrorMastic.jpg
http://warrenmercer.com/pics/remodel/MirrorFinal.jpg

Now I just need some help mounting the light above the mirror. Off to another forum category....lol.

I was in the mirror business for 43 years............I give you an A. Great job!!!