Carpentry and Woodworking - Sealing a wood bathroom countertop?

What is the best sealer for a wood countertop? (Knotty Pine) The top will be stained.
Thanks
Mark

Layers of high gloss polyurethane worked back in the 60's, and should work now. Just be sure to seal all the edges as well as the flat surface to prevent infiltration of water at any point. Is the wood a plywood product, or t&g, or flat dimension lumber?

Wood is flat 1x10 glued and bisqueted to another 1x10. It will be supported by 1/2 inch plywood under it, it should not flex when I am done.

Even with poly coating, avoid standing water. Wipe up all spills and splatters. Water and wood do not get along very well together.

Any wood can be used as a counter. IMO knotty pine is too soft for a counter as it can ding and dent more readily than harder wood species. It tends to yellow as it ages due to UVB exposure. Use a water-based, nonyellowing polyurethane. Polyurethane tends to scratch, so that may be another concern.

Make sure bathroom is adequately ventilated. Wood tends to expand and contract as temp and humidity fluctuate. The wider the board, the less dimensional stability. Two 1x10s? You may experience gaps and/or cupping or crowning. Sealing all sides, top, bottom, and edges may help with this potential problem.

We are going for a yellowing (aged) look. We have a 50 year old knotty pine kitchen cabinets in our first house (that we now rent) and love them.

Would Cypress match up well as a counter top?

Instead of 1x10 what shoud I rip and glue together?

Thanks

IIWM I would use southern yellow pine and not worry to much about dings and dents. It will age to the yellow finish you are looking for, but you'll sacrifice the knots. I have a workbench with a top made from recycled SYP stair treads. It's 20 years old and will certainly outlive me.

If you can get 5/4 SYP you won't need plywood under for support. I ripped my workbench top to 6" and have had no problem with cupping.