Doors and Windows - Replacing windows on asbestos shingled house
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Stevie B
09-24-07, 08:11 PM
I need to replace some old alluminum double hung windows on my wife's cousins house. Im a new construction GC and usually dont do remodeling, but its family,..so. The cousin wants the windows replaced before the winter on this abspostos shingled sided house. They're going to re-side the house in 4-5 yrs. , but they want the windows replaced and the shingles repainted for appearences. My question is; should I put flang vynal or alluminum windows ,and risk having to cut some siding or use replacements and risk water infiltration if the caulk or tar tape leaks?
Any suggestions appriciated
Any suggestions appriciated
XSleeper
09-24-07, 09:00 PM
Not sure what part of the country you're in, but aluminum windows aren't the best for keeping houses warm or cool- too much heat transfer, even if the frames are thermally broken. They are more durable, though.
Either way, you should probably remove the old frames and sill, and plan to completely insulate and retrim the interior, after installing a window that has a nailing flange. Retrofitting replacement windows is a great upgrade for many homes, but if the old frames are rotting or they notice drafts coming around the trim, then a retrofit installation isn't really a good fit for the customer. Removing the frame and installing a whole new window is a little more involved but not much, and it's so much better in the end.
Many times, the asbestos siding was added over the top of the face trim which makes tearing out the windows difficult. But you can get similar siding from GAF (google it- GAF weather side) so that even if you break a few out around the windows you can patch them back in and it will look fine and be weather tight until it's resided.
The best thing to do, assuming the house will get all the siding removed down the road, is to remove about 12-24" of siding around the windows, which will enable you to apply moiststop or tyvek around the bottom and sides of the rough opening. (I cut end rolls of Tyvek into 12" mini rolls for this purpose.) Your new windows will be installed on top of the Tyvek. Then the bottom and sides are taped with the butyl membrane tape, and the top of the window flange is sealed to the sheathing with it too. Then a strip of Tyvek is applied over the butyl membrane, and is flashed under the existing building paper. Later, when the siding is all torn off in the future, they will have an easy time taping around the windows, and your windows will be incorporated into the envelope nicely... meaning they shouldn't leak! Then replace the siding with old/new pieces. You could butt them right up to the new window if you wanted to avoid putting on trim.
Either way, you should probably remove the old frames and sill, and plan to completely insulate and retrim the interior, after installing a window that has a nailing flange. Retrofitting replacement windows is a great upgrade for many homes, but if the old frames are rotting or they notice drafts coming around the trim, then a retrofit installation isn't really a good fit for the customer. Removing the frame and installing a whole new window is a little more involved but not much, and it's so much better in the end.
Many times, the asbestos siding was added over the top of the face trim which makes tearing out the windows difficult. But you can get similar siding from GAF (google it- GAF weather side) so that even if you break a few out around the windows you can patch them back in and it will look fine and be weather tight until it's resided.
The best thing to do, assuming the house will get all the siding removed down the road, is to remove about 12-24" of siding around the windows, which will enable you to apply moiststop or tyvek around the bottom and sides of the rough opening. (I cut end rolls of Tyvek into 12" mini rolls for this purpose.) Your new windows will be installed on top of the Tyvek. Then the bottom and sides are taped with the butyl membrane tape, and the top of the window flange is sealed to the sheathing with it too. Then a strip of Tyvek is applied over the butyl membrane, and is flashed under the existing building paper. Later, when the siding is all torn off in the future, they will have an easy time taping around the windows, and your windows will be incorporated into the envelope nicely... meaning they shouldn't leak! Then replace the siding with old/new pieces. You could butt them right up to the new window if you wanted to avoid putting on trim.