Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Tubs and Disposals - New Toilet vs. Wax Seal
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RudyFrimmel
09-22-07, 09:15 AM
I have a toilet that is not frequently used that has developed a slow leak around the base. I've ruled out the tank connections or condensation as a possible cause. I'm just getting geared up to tackle the problem and I'm hoping to get through this without wasting money or time. So. . .
I know at a minimum the wax seal should be replaced. The big question is whether to just start with a new toilet. The current toilet probably should have been stabilized with some shims because it does rock back and forth a bit. A while back I tried to fix this by tightening the bolts at the base and I ended up cracking the base. I can live with this as far as appearances go, but if it's structural (causing a leak) I'll obviously need to replace it.
Is it worth my while just the replacing seal and adding shims as needed or should I just spring for the new toilet? I've not done either before and I'm just looking for some good advice before I get too deep into this.
Many thanks!
I know at a minimum the wax seal should be replaced. The big question is whether to just start with a new toilet. The current toilet probably should have been stabilized with some shims because it does rock back and forth a bit. A while back I tried to fix this by tightening the bolts at the base and I ended up cracking the base. I can live with this as far as appearances go, but if it's structural (causing a leak) I'll obviously need to replace it.
Is it worth my while just the replacing seal and adding shims as needed or should I just spring for the new toilet? I've not done either before and I'm just looking for some good advice before I get too deep into this.
Many thanks!
ecman51`
09-22-07, 06:32 PM
IF it leaks out even when you don't flush it. Do this:
Turn off the valve to the toilet and flush the toilet.
Spong out all the water until dry so you definitively know no water is coming back into the tank.
Now fill up the toilet bowl to the water line level (usually a stain of lime or something at that point you can reference).
If water continues to show up on the floor at the base even then, after you wiped it once or twice after filling the bowl for this test, your bowl must have a crack in the internal trap of the toilet. (Using food coloring or red Kool-Aid powder for this test is unnecessary)
Turn off the valve to the toilet and flush the toilet.
Spong out all the water until dry so you definitively know no water is coming back into the tank.
Now fill up the toilet bowl to the water line level (usually a stain of lime or something at that point you can reference).
If water continues to show up on the floor at the base even then, after you wiped it once or twice after filling the bowl for this test, your bowl must have a crack in the internal trap of the toilet. (Using food coloring or red Kool-Aid powder for this test is unnecessary)
RudyFrimmel
09-23-07, 07:45 AM
If I followed your procedure, and my problem was a leak at the wax seal (not a crack) wouldn't the results of the test still be the same?
michaelshortt
09-23-07, 08:45 AM
If the toilet base is cracked I would replace it. Think you could find a toilet for under $100. Plus a $5 seal.
adamplghtg
09-23-07, 01:15 PM
The point of the experiment is to see if the bowl holds water. That will help eliminate a possible problem. When china cracks, its usually not a small isolated crack, it usually goes for a while so your bowl probably is broken, which wouldn't be a wax seal problem. If you buy a new toilet, don't go for the cheapest because you will more than likely have problems with it.