Doors and Windows - New Entry Door - Light showing through
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tedpwatson
09-21-07, 06:27 AM
Hello, I had an entry door installed the other weekend. After the contractor left, I noticed light coming though between the weatherstripping and the door on the upper portion of the latch-side.
If I step outside and run my finger along the weatherstripping, I feel that it is tighter at the bottom latch side then it is at the top.
I got out my level and noticed that the latch side is plumb but the hinge side is angled a bit. Moving from top to bottom, it is sloping towards the outside.
There are three screws in the hinge side. I figured I need to take the top two out, put a block of wood against the top-hinge-side frame and pound it outside a bit.
Is this correct? Or should I do the opposite, pound the bottom-hinge-side in? Or am I just screwed?
Thanks!
If I step outside and run my finger along the weatherstripping, I feel that it is tighter at the bottom latch side then it is at the top.
I got out my level and noticed that the latch side is plumb but the hinge side is angled a bit. Moving from top to bottom, it is sloping towards the outside.
There are three screws in the hinge side. I figured I need to take the top two out, put a block of wood against the top-hinge-side frame and pound it outside a bit.
Is this correct? Or should I do the opposite, pound the bottom-hinge-side in? Or am I just screwed?
Thanks!
2000
09-21-07, 08:08 AM
The adjustment is not your obligation. If you insist:
1 Test the door slab for flatness. Using a long straightedge test it lengthwise, diagonally, and widthwise. It should be flat within 1/16” lengthwise and diagonally, and 1/32” widthwise.
Stop if it fails. Call the contractor. It should be replaced.
2.Test both sides of the opening for plumb (hinge and strike sides). Do not use the jamb for this test. Test the wall face itself. Examine the head jamb for straightness and whether it is square to both side jambs also.
If either side or the wall is out of plumb you need to determine the best approach. A. Move the hinge jamb toward plumb. B. Skew the strike jamb toward paralleling the non-plumb hinge jamb. C. Both.
If the only problem is the hinge jamb is not plumb there should be gaps in the trim. If this is the case move the jamb. Using your description, move the bottom of the jamb inward.
1 Test the door slab for flatness. Using a long straightedge test it lengthwise, diagonally, and widthwise. It should be flat within 1/16” lengthwise and diagonally, and 1/32” widthwise.
Stop if it fails. Call the contractor. It should be replaced.
2.Test both sides of the opening for plumb (hinge and strike sides). Do not use the jamb for this test. Test the wall face itself. Examine the head jamb for straightness and whether it is square to both side jambs also.
If either side or the wall is out of plumb you need to determine the best approach. A. Move the hinge jamb toward plumb. B. Skew the strike jamb toward paralleling the non-plumb hinge jamb. C. Both.
If the only problem is the hinge jamb is not plumb there should be gaps in the trim. If this is the case move the jamb. Using your description, move the bottom of the jamb inward.
XSleeper
09-21-07, 06:22 PM
If you pound the bottom hinge side in, it will bring the door closer to the weatherstrip on the top latch side.
While in a perfect world, the door should be plumb on both sides, you really have to go by the reveal on the door as it closes. As you close your door, stop it when it is 1/8" from bring all the way closed. Observe the gap of light that is between the door and the latch side jamb. That reveal should be straight. It sounds like you are saying that there is a larger gap on top of the latch side. So that would mean you would either:
Pound the top of the latch side in...
Pound the bottom of the latch side out...
Pound the bottom of the hinge side in...
Pound the top of the hinge side out...
Or a combination of the four.
Sometimes if the door is a bit warped you'll have to adjust the frame to meet the door.
2000 is correct when he mentioned that installation problems are not your obligation. Really, the person who should fix the door is the one who installed it.
One other point is that even when doors contact the weatherstrip properly, some doors may still need extra wedge-shaped weatherstrip pads placed in the upper corners. (They usually include 2 pads for use along the bottom left and right corners, but none for the top. I always have spares along for when they are needed.) Light will sometimes show through the gap where the top weatherstrip meets the side weatherstrip. The wedge-shaped pads block that spot up a little better.
While in a perfect world, the door should be plumb on both sides, you really have to go by the reveal on the door as it closes. As you close your door, stop it when it is 1/8" from bring all the way closed. Observe the gap of light that is between the door and the latch side jamb. That reveal should be straight. It sounds like you are saying that there is a larger gap on top of the latch side. So that would mean you would either:
Pound the top of the latch side in...
Pound the bottom of the latch side out...
Pound the bottom of the hinge side in...
Pound the top of the hinge side out...
Or a combination of the four.
Sometimes if the door is a bit warped you'll have to adjust the frame to meet the door.
2000 is correct when he mentioned that installation problems are not your obligation. Really, the person who should fix the door is the one who installed it.
One other point is that even when doors contact the weatherstrip properly, some doors may still need extra wedge-shaped weatherstrip pads placed in the upper corners. (They usually include 2 pads for use along the bottom left and right corners, but none for the top. I always have spares along for when they are needed.) Light will sometimes show through the gap where the top weatherstrip meets the side weatherstrip. The wedge-shaped pads block that spot up a little better.