Carpentry and Woodworking - Flat Screen tv cabinet
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jeepun77
09-11-07, 03:42 PM
Im new to the board and need help, I've been given the ok to get a new flat screen, on one condition. The wife wants it concealed in a cabinet. Has anyone made a cabinet that mounts to the wall that has doors to cover the tv.
Any help would be appreciated.
I have seen where you can buy some for 300-1500 dollars. Don't want to use the tv money for the cabinet.
Any help would be appreciated.
I have seen where you can buy some for 300-1500 dollars. Don't want to use the tv money for the cabinet.
HotinOKC
09-11-07, 03:50 PM
Though I know next to nothing about woodworking, you need to be aware that LCD's/plasmas need good ventilation. They get very hot and if they can't get air, or able to get the hot air out, your tv will die prematurely.
jeepun77
09-11-07, 04:02 PM
I thought about that but figured that the tv will be off when the doors are closed and the doors will be open when turned on that it would be ok.
XSleeper
09-11-07, 05:45 PM
I've made one cabinet for a flat screen. The trick is knowing how much room you need to leave between the interior edge of the face frame and the TV, since you need to be able to get your fingers around it in order to hang it up after the cabinet is installed. I ended up leaving a 7/8" gap between the face frame and the TV on the one I did.
It was a very simple cabinet, with no bottom and no top (for ventilation). Just a 1x2 face frame with plywood sides. The sides were connected with a couple 1x4's to form a very lightweight carcass. Then I installed crown moulding around the top of it to dress it up a bit. The face frame, plywood and crown moulding was made of walnut, so it looked pretty snazzy when it was done.
It was a very simple cabinet, with no bottom and no top (for ventilation). Just a 1x2 face frame with plywood sides. The sides were connected with a couple 1x4's to form a very lightweight carcass. Then I installed crown moulding around the top of it to dress it up a bit. The face frame, plywood and crown moulding was made of walnut, so it looked pretty snazzy when it was done.
jeepun77
09-12-07, 10:08 AM
Thats what I'm looking for. If I PM can you give me some additional info on making it?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
XSleeper
09-12-07, 05:53 PM
It's really very simple. You make a face frame out of 1x2's (such as solid oak) making it look like the front of a kitchen cabinet. The vertical side pieces (stiles) run the entire length of the front, and the horizontal top and bottom pieces (rails) are sandwiched between the sides. 1 1/4" pocket screws and wood glue (research Kreg pocket hole jig) can be used to attach the rails to the stiles. Now you've got a face frame.
The sides of the box can be made of veneered plywood or veneered MDF (such as 3/4" oak veneer). You cut the sides long enough so that once the TV is installed, it will be slightly recessed behind the face frame and doors. The sides can be attached to the face frame using 1 1/4" pocket screws and wood glue from the interior side.
For the back, two 1x4's (that are cut to the correct width) can be placed between the two sides- one at the top of the back, one at the bottom of the back. They can also be attached with 1 1/4" pocket screws and wood glue.
To attach the thing to the wall, you'd locate the studs and mount the unit to the wall, screwing through the 1x4's into the wall studs. If you happen to be a long ways from a stud on the sides, you can use a molly bolt or toggle bolt through the 1x4 to pull it tight to the drywall.
I did not put doors on mine, but you would be limited to a standard cabinet door and hinge, since there will not be enough depth to go with a retractable cabinet door hinge, unless you don't mind the doors sticking out when they are open- they would likely only retract partway. I'd skip the doors unless you really really need them.
The sides of the box can be made of veneered plywood or veneered MDF (such as 3/4" oak veneer). You cut the sides long enough so that once the TV is installed, it will be slightly recessed behind the face frame and doors. The sides can be attached to the face frame using 1 1/4" pocket screws and wood glue from the interior side.
For the back, two 1x4's (that are cut to the correct width) can be placed between the two sides- one at the top of the back, one at the bottom of the back. They can also be attached with 1 1/4" pocket screws and wood glue.
To attach the thing to the wall, you'd locate the studs and mount the unit to the wall, screwing through the 1x4's into the wall studs. If you happen to be a long ways from a stud on the sides, you can use a molly bolt or toggle bolt through the 1x4 to pull it tight to the drywall.
I did not put doors on mine, but you would be limited to a standard cabinet door and hinge, since there will not be enough depth to go with a retractable cabinet door hinge, unless you don't mind the doors sticking out when they are open- they would likely only retract partway. I'd skip the doors unless you really really need them.