Decks, Patios, Porches and Docks - Repair of Rotted Wood
Doityourself.com community forum was created to provide answers to all questions related to home improvement and home repair. Doityourself community can help you find information about how-to topics on small fixes to large remodeling projects. With comprehensive how-to content and expertly moderated community forums DoItYourself.com makes it easy to tackle even the most complex home improvement projects.View Full Version : Repair of Rotted Wood
fredo
09-10-07, 08:12 AM
Hope I'm in the right Forum! A section of an exterior door jam is rotted and I want to repair the area rather than replace the entire jam (the rotted section is an area that can often be covered by snow in the winter months). Once repaired, it will be primed and painted.
I understand the repair will require a 2-part process; first to stablilize the rotted area and then to fill (the area is approx 2" deep). Anyone familair with the following products: Minwax Wood Filler, Bondo, LiquidWood/WoodEpox? Would welcome your experience/suggestions--thanks!
I understand the repair will require a 2-part process; first to stablilize the rotted area and then to fill (the area is approx 2" deep). Anyone familair with the following products: Minwax Wood Filler, Bondo, LiquidWood/WoodEpox? Would welcome your experience/suggestions--thanks!
chandler
09-10-07, 05:42 PM
I use the Minwax epoxy wood filler with really good success in doing exactly what you want to do. I have customers who either can't afford to replace the entire jamb, or just don't want to go through the hassle of me pulling all this stuff down. So, I opt to clean up the area really good back to good wood, and apply the epoxy generously. It will run, so I use a little more of the activator to make it gel quicker. Normally you have about 15 minutes to play with it, but with the added activator, move quick and accurately. Once it has set up, rasp it off, apply a second coat (with normal amount of activator), dry and rasp/sand it to a good finish. You can even profile it to match adjoining molding. Prime and paint it. It will last longer then the wood next to it.
fredo
09-10-07, 07:26 PM
Thanks for the input! What's been your experience regarding how thick each layer of fill can be before allowing to dry?
chandler
09-10-07, 08:21 PM
It really doesn't matter since it cures chemically, and does not require air to do so. Your last coat can be thin, since you have to do a final sanding on it, and you don't want a bunch of over build to have to take back down.
fredo
09-10-07, 08:33 PM
Thanks again for your help!
lefty
09-11-07, 07:08 PM
fredo,
I too have done this repair dozens of times. Just so things are perfectly clear, you will be removing ALL of the jamb for however far up from the threshold that the rot goes (and a few more inches, just for good measure!!), and then installing the new piece(s)...
Making the new pieces match the old perfectly will be the challenge.
What I usually do is to replace the entire side of the jamb, assuming that I can find a leg of the same jamb. If I can't find it, I make it. You've got to find or make a piece anyway, what's the difference between doing 24" and 82" of it?? At least replacing the entire side eliminates the joint!
I too have done this repair dozens of times. Just so things are perfectly clear, you will be removing ALL of the jamb for however far up from the threshold that the rot goes (and a few more inches, just for good measure!!), and then installing the new piece(s)...
Making the new pieces match the old perfectly will be the challenge.
What I usually do is to replace the entire side of the jamb, assuming that I can find a leg of the same jamb. If I can't find it, I make it. You've got to find or make a piece anyway, what's the difference between doing 24" and 82" of it?? At least replacing the entire side eliminates the joint!