Air Conditioning - reversing valve and refrigerant type

I am trying to help out Dad with a problem on his Coleman TLC 2.5 ton heat pump, model 4530-901. I can't read the label for gas type, but can anyone confirm that this 20 year old unit uses R22? Also, the unit will not switch back to cooling mode from the heating mode. I have verified that I do indeed have the 240 volts to the reversing valve coil and that I have what seemed like a good enough reading on the coils resistance. I can't remember what the ohm reading was now, but it seemed to be okay. Also, I can feel the magnification on the coil when activated.

This unit had been used quite extensively on the heating cycle (cold Mom), and I am thinking that the reversing valve it stuck. I don't feel any movement when I touch the valve and apply the 240 volts to the coil. Also, the suction line is hot and had a couple hundred pounds of pressure in it.

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Good chance it's a R-22 system.. as the valve, I've always seen 24 volts... never seen it that high!

Double check wires..

I can tell you that there is a 99.999999% chance it's R-22.

Other than that that's all we can tell you on the refrigerant side. No sealed circuit help is given here.

Like said 20 years old would be R22 did have some R502 then Id check that coil again for sure on the reversing valve. Yes they do come in 24V 120V and 208/240V Might check and see if you have a inside check valve at the evaporator coil for a bypass. Have had them stick, No electric at it. You will have to get a EPA tech to put a new valve in.

Thanks all for the response. I am sure about the coil voltage as to how that is what the schematic shows and I measured it as well.

Ed; what can you tell me about the check valve? how would you check that?

I am new to this site so I am not sure of the proper protocal, but is there some other section here to post system questions? Or for some reason is that not allowed because of some EPA regs?

In order to work on refrigeration and a/c sealed systems in the US you must have epa certification and be qualified.
In addition to certification you would require a refrigerant reclaimer, vacuum pump, leak detector and a collection of several other tools that would never be cost effective to buy for a diy'er.

We do not offer advice when it is unlawful for folks to do this kind of work.

You need to call a certified tech to fix this for you.

Like GregH said you have to be EPA to work with the freon in any unit.
But you can work on like that electric coil on lot of them on that 4 way valve and not open or do anything with the freon. Now on that check valve on the evaporator coil . Some of the old units just had a steel ball inside the copper line and you can take a very strong magnet and slid it up and down on the copper line to move the steel ball inside. It might just cost less to call in a teck now

Geez; I guess I didn't know that assumptions would be taken if I just asked a couple of questions? I also didn't hear that the EPA had restrictions to discuss system trouble shooting questions? At least that never came up on the test when I first took my test for Universal Certification back in 1992 (or so) when they first started requiring certification. Most of my experiance has been with large chillers, 10 ton or bigger DX units, centrificals and systems on Navy vessels that I was stationed on as an Engineman.

I don't really have much experiance with small residential heat pumps (and therfore the questions regarding reversing valves and check valves), just 100 ton (or so), multiple 06E Carrier reciprocating chilled water heat pumps that we simpy change the direction of flow.

I also am well equipped with my Carrier Total Reclaim, tanks, scale, torches, evac pump, gauges, micron meter, electronic leak detectors, and even a bottle of bubbles. So with that being said, I ask again: is there some law or regulation that I am unaware of that specifies that we can't even discuss, this stuff on line? I guess we can thank Al Gore (Internet Flounder) for that!!

it sounds like your at the wroing forum try hvac-talk

also double check the wiring to see if the coil should be energized in heat or cool. you could try disconnecting the coil and wiring it directly to voltage thru an on/off switch, then energize/de-energize the valve while you GENTLY tap on the piping at the valve

It is this forum's policy, not the EPA's that we do not assist with diy sealed system repair.

It is good that you have the equipment you say and with the background you describe you should have little trouble learning what you ask.
However, the internet is not always as it seems and as such the contributers here choose not to go in this direction.

This is a forum for repairs that the average person would do and HVAC-Talk as daddyjohn suggested would be a better place to go.

Cool; I will just check out that hvac-talk site and see what that looks like.

Thanks for the input daddyjohn. That was kind of a tip like I was looking for. Actually, I had allready done both of those by virtue of reading the schematic and verifieing the voltage to the coil with and without. I tried tapping on it too, just to see if that would break it loose, but from what I am reading, this seem to be a common problem with reversing valves? I checked to temps yesterday and I can see it not changing at all. Thamks again.

It looks as if I will be changing out my first reversing valve.

Cool; I will just check out that hvac-talk site and see what that looks like.

Thanks for the input daddyjohn. That was kind of a tip like I was looking for. Actually, I had allready done both of those by virtue of reading the schematic and verifieing the voltage to the coil with and without. I tried tapping on it too, just to see if that would break it loose, but from what I am reading, this seem to be a common problem with reversing valves? I checked to temps yesterday and I can see it not changing at all. Thamks again.

It looks as if I will be changing out my first reversing valve.


I sent you a pm

applejack I have a suggestion for you. Follow the leads from the 240 volt reversing valve backwards you may find that someone has changed out the contactor and you are pulling off one leg L1 or L2 only. I have seen that before it stumped 2 techs before I got there, they were making preparations to change the reversing valve. Sometimes it is the little things that get missed check it thoroughly before condemning the valve, it is fairly rare that one fails. Actually the easiest thing to do is trace the wires back and the one that goes directly to the contactor leg can be switched to other side just to check it that takes all of 2 minutes. Good Luck