Tools, Sharpening and Power Machinery - Table saw problems

I have a Delta 34-444 contractor's saw that grinds down when I'm trying to rip just pine! I rip a 1x4 through and it tends to slow down midway. I have to stop the movement of the board, then the motor clicks and speeds back up. I then continue the cut. This really burns down the wood and doesn't always give a clean cut. And it makes it really difficult to rip or crosscut thicker stock. Cutting tenons is a joke.

Thinking it was the blade I bought a Forrest Woodworker II 40 tooth thin kerf blade. Granted this is an awesome blade and gave me nice cuts, the saw still grinded down, but not as much.

What am I missing here? Is it the motor, the belt, the voltage (110)?

gwoods,

Two questions:

Have you checked to see that your fence and blade are perfectly parallel?

Are you using an extension cord?

What Randy said. I found my fence on my jobsite saw had apparently taken a blow and was cantered toward the blade in the back, causing the wood to bind when it reached that point. A couple of adjustments, and it cuts like butter.

Not using an extension cord. I've checked the blade which is set properly. I'm using the 52" unifence, but didn't check it. I will do that.

But you don't think it's related to the power or the belt? Would switching over from 120v to 240v make any improvements?

If the saw has some age on it, the motor brushes may be worn. Is the motor overheating? Could be a poor connection somewhere in the circuit.

If the saw has some age on it, the motor brushes may be worn. Is the motor overheating? Could be a poor connection somewhere in the circuit.

According to the manual it has overload protection, specifically if stock is forced thru or if its being used beyond its capacity. In this case it would stop completely. It doesn't seem like it's overheating though. For whatever reason it just slows down.

Let us know after you adjust the fence. Changing the tool from 120 to 240 gives you no electrical savings, or anything like that. It does let the motor perform better, IMO, as the tool tends to spool up faster and holds the speed better. All my heavy shop tools have been changed to 240 volts.

After some investigation, it looks like the blade is not parallel with the miter slot. When this question was asked earlier, I was thinking in terms of 90 degrees which would be the degrees perpendicular to the table. Sorry about that.

I actually found a "Tuning your tablesaw" article in one of my American Woodworker mags from August, 1994. Pretty good article too.

It seems that my blade is heeling away from the slot at the back of the blade. It looks like I'll have to get under the hood, loosen and adjust the trunnion bolts.

I think I'll get a new belt for it also, and change it over to 240v. Thanks for all the help folks!

Also found this ~8 min video on table saw tuneup, which pretty much stated the same as in the American Woodworker (AW) article. But for those w/o that AW edition, this link should suffice.

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=5313

You will do well, since you are changing belts to go with a segmented type belt. They are alot quieter. I believe they are called power twist. Go to:http://www.amazon.com/Fenner-Drives-0418030SL-PowerTwist-Plus/dp/B00002240R
for an example. You buy one length and either take out or add links to the proper size.

How sharp is the blade?

How sharp is the blade?
The blade is a new Forrest Woodworker II blade. Fresh out of the box.

You will do well, since you are changing belts to go with a segmented type belt. They are alot quieter. I believe they are called power twist. Go to:http://www.amazon.com/Fenner-Drives-0418030SL-PowerTwist-Plus/dp/B00002240R
for an example. You buy one length and either take out or add links to the proper size.

Thanks much Larry!