Motorcycles, Snowmobiles, Go-Carts, ATV's and Golf Carts - racing lawn mower help
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tractor262
08-22-07, 11:19 PM
i have me myracing lawnmower with pulleys changed and other mods and i want to make a gas pedal for it i already have an idea for that but i need to know where to hook up the throttle cable to i hear that i have to hook it to the carbeurator but i have no idea how to and if this helps i only want the mower to move if i push the pedal down so will i have to buy new parts or anything thanx all help apreciated and pics
puey61
08-23-07, 04:53 AM
Where you hook the throttle cable up at the engine end depends on if you plan to utilize the governor or not. Do you?
msidan
08-23-07, 07:09 AM
It may be easier to have a hand control on the steering wheel; something like a bicycle hand brake.
tractor262
08-23-07, 11:19 AM
yes i want to keep the governer and im lean more towards a foot pedal beacause i want the car feel and it fits my mower better but even if i did use a hand throttle wear would i connect it to so the mower only moves if i pull the hand throttle or push the pedal in
msidan
08-23-07, 12:50 PM
I would bypass the governor and hook the cable straight to the butterfly on the carb because your foot would become like the governor.
oldchevy4x4
08-23-07, 01:31 PM
I'd go with a hand throttle. It's impossible to maintain throttle position with your foot when you're bouncing around a track. You would connect it to the same place on the governor that the original cable would be connected to. Just make sure you don't use the linkage for the choke if it ran off the same cable... otherwise at WOT you would close the choke... not good. Then, add a return spring to snap the butterfly shut when you let off, and you'll be in business.
puey61
08-27-07, 04:54 AM
I've run 50 mph racing mowers and a foot pedal is best. If you have a hand throttle it's difficult to keep a steady hand on the throttle and turn the steering wheel.
racinglawnmower
10-23-07, 09:50 PM
i have me myracing lawnmower with pulleys changed and other mods and i want to make a gas pedal for it i already have an idea for that but i need to know where to hook up the throttle cable to i hear that i have to hook it to the carbeurator but i have no idea how to and if this helps i only want the mower to move if i push the pedal down so will i have to buy new parts or anything thanx all help apreciated and pics
i cnaged my pulleys around on my lawn nower it has the motor in the back but the clutch isnt working and id ont know how to fix it like the clutch isnt pulling the belt far enough off the motor i guess any ideas how to fix it? and ya im putting a gas pedal on my lawn mower to and going to twik the govner and ya u hook it to the carb there should be a piece to hook it to it depends what style of carb u got to
i cnaged my pulleys around on my lawn nower it has the motor in the back but the clutch isnt working and id ont know how to fix it like the clutch isnt pulling the belt far enough off the motor i guess any ideas how to fix it? and ya im putting a gas pedal on my lawn mower to and going to twik the govner and ya u hook it to the carb there should be a piece to hook it to it depends what style of carb u got to
oldchevy4x4
10-28-07, 11:38 AM
Sounds like your belt is too short, or you didn't move the belt guides when you changed the pulleys.
and ya im putting a gas pedal on my lawn mower
I'd really advise against a gas pedal. Peuy, I'm not arguing with you but I will debate the finer points of a hand throttle vs. foot throttle. First we'll just look at what everyone else is doing. If you head over to letsmow.com or heymow.com and look at the pics you will notice all the machines have hand throttles. We're talking out of 100's of class-built machines 1 or 2 if any use a foot throttle. That alone is reason to consider a hand throttle. It was mentioned that it was difficult to hold throttle position when turning the wheel. If the wheel needs to be turned more than a third of a turn either way lock to lock then the front end is not set up correctly. Any mower running at speeds above stock should not be using stock steering.
Your feet need to be available to hold your weight when you’re shifting yourself around to maintain balance, which in mower racing is pretty much your whole time on the track.
and ya im putting a gas pedal on my lawn mower
I'd really advise against a gas pedal. Peuy, I'm not arguing with you but I will debate the finer points of a hand throttle vs. foot throttle. First we'll just look at what everyone else is doing. If you head over to letsmow.com or heymow.com and look at the pics you will notice all the machines have hand throttles. We're talking out of 100's of class-built machines 1 or 2 if any use a foot throttle. That alone is reason to consider a hand throttle. It was mentioned that it was difficult to hold throttle position when turning the wheel. If the wheel needs to be turned more than a third of a turn either way lock to lock then the front end is not set up correctly. Any mower running at speeds above stock should not be using stock steering.
Your feet need to be available to hold your weight when you’re shifting yourself around to maintain balance, which in mower racing is pretty much your whole time on the track.
runthatmurray91
11-01-07, 01:09 PM
i got a 85 murray plannin to race. but i put a larger pulley on the front and i pulled the rearend off and tryed my hardest to pull the rear pulley off i took that bolt out and tryed everything to get it out without damaging the pulley so can anyone help me out? and maby give me some other ideas? it would be greatly appreciated
oldchevy4x4
11-01-07, 03:51 PM
If you're trying to save the pulley, then soak it with PB Blaster or equivalent for a while, or hit it with some heat, and use a pulley puller. Just be careful how much force you put on it, as they bend pretty easy. If you don't plan on using it again, drill 2 holes 180 degrees apart and use a steering wheel puller.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb171/mowerracingcentral/th_IM000696.jpg (http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb171/mowerracingcentral/IM000696.jpg)
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb171/mowerracingcentral/th_IM000696.jpg (http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb171/mowerracingcentral/IM000696.jpg)
wolfman8
11-05-07, 05:33 PM
I had the same problem with my belt. it was to tight and wouldnt allow the clutch to work. but if just jammed it into gear a couple of times and it stretched the belt right out and it fits perfect now. But i got some questions on the gas throttle.
1. how do you hook it up some pictures on how would be really helpful.
2. how do you get the the brake to work without having to use a clutch. when i want to shift i have to push in the clutch and that also works as the brake. so i cant change gears, is there some way to fix that?
1. how do you hook it up some pictures on how would be really helpful.
2. how do you get the the brake to work without having to use a clutch. when i want to shift i have to push in the clutch and that also works as the brake. so i cant change gears, is there some way to fix that?
cm_mnboy
08-16-08, 09:03 AM
so i have read these forums and im also building a racing lawn mower. I have old mtd 12.5 horse lawn mower, but i read earlier that mtd's arent a very good lawn mower to use. Can somone help me out on this
oldchevy4x4
08-30-08, 10:52 AM
Sorry for the slow response
MTD's make fine racing mowers, their driveline however does not. Ditch the vari-drive setup and replace it with a kart axle and a Peerless transmission. Another route would be to replace the stock transaxle with a different one, preferably a Peerless. Either way you will need to fab up a new clutch and shift linkage.
MTD's make fine racing mowers, their driveline however does not. Ditch the vari-drive setup and replace it with a kart axle and a Peerless transmission. Another route would be to replace the stock transaxle with a different one, preferably a Peerless. Either way you will need to fab up a new clutch and shift linkage.
BigHillbilly77
02-23-09, 06:33 PM
well im new at this racing lawn mower thing but ive been doing some researching and im still not sure on what i need i know where i can get a 17.5 horse motor but im still working on getting a frame and stuff a list or some tips would help alot
BigHillbilly77
02-23-09, 06:36 PM
ive been reading some of your responses and it sounds like your the man to talk to about making a racing lawn mower so some tips would be great
oldchevy4x4
02-25-09, 06:33 PM
a list or some tips would help
-Engine - you have it
-Frame - Try to get one free, or as cheap as possible.
-Driveline - It may be possible to use the driveline in the frame, otherwise you will need a transaxle or a transmission & live axle
-Steering - Stock steering won't do, at the very least you will need to replace the ball joint tie rod ends with heim joints and remove all play or slop from the steering system.
-Brakes - Stock brakes are no good for high speeds, consider a mechanical disk (hydraulic is better, but more $$) mounted to the axle
-Tires - You want to make sure you've got good rubber, old dry-rotten tires won't hold up
-Kill Switch - A tether, or "dead man’s" switch is necessary to kill the engine when you fall off.
-Spring Return Throttle - A bicycle brake lever mounted on the steering wheel is my preference, but some people prefer a pedal.
-Pulleys - You will need to change the stock size pulleys to achieve more speed. Larger on engine & smaller on the trans. I would not suggest going smaller than 4" on the trans, as you will want a good amount of belt contact.
-Engine - you have it
-Frame - Try to get one free, or as cheap as possible.
-Driveline - It may be possible to use the driveline in the frame, otherwise you will need a transaxle or a transmission & live axle
-Steering - Stock steering won't do, at the very least you will need to replace the ball joint tie rod ends with heim joints and remove all play or slop from the steering system.
-Brakes - Stock brakes are no good for high speeds, consider a mechanical disk (hydraulic is better, but more $$) mounted to the axle
-Tires - You want to make sure you've got good rubber, old dry-rotten tires won't hold up
-Kill Switch - A tether, or "dead man’s" switch is necessary to kill the engine when you fall off.
-Spring Return Throttle - A bicycle brake lever mounted on the steering wheel is my preference, but some people prefer a pedal.
-Pulleys - You will need to change the stock size pulleys to achieve more speed. Larger on engine & smaller on the trans. I would not suggest going smaller than 4" on the trans, as you will want a good amount of belt contact.
mower kid
04-16-09, 09:42 PM
so i have read these forums and im also building a racing lawn mower. I have old mtd 12.5 horse lawn mower, but i read earlier that mtd's arent a very good lawn mower to use. Can somone help me out on this
a i have the same kind of mower an i need help but i think it iss a good mower
a i have the same kind of mower an i need help but i think it iss a good mower